Scared of polishes and compounds

[bennylava]

Well its time for another thread about this. I`ve learned a lot since last time, and instead of reviving the old dead thread, I figured I`d just start a new one. So I`ll just come out and say it, I`m scared of using polishes and compounds. I`m pretty much having to be self taught on all this, as I`m sure many of you were. And I`m having a bit of a tough time getting a handle on which compound to use, and when. And which polish to use, and when. I feel confident that I`ve got washing, clay-barring, and waxing down. But compounding and polishing still sorta scares me.

There are so many compounds and polishes on the market, that I`m still pretty overwhelmed. There is also the fact that I doubt that I could tell when to use a compound, instead of a polish. The way it was explained to me here on this site, was that compounds are your heavier stuff, and are getting into the area of 1,000-3000 grit sand paper. When it comes to their roughness. And polishes start where compounds leave off. Hopefully I have that part right at least.

So anyway, I`m afraid that I will use a polish or a compound, that is too heavy for the task at hand. I just can`t identify what polish, or compound needs to be used at a given time. This is made worse by the amount of products to choose from. And what happens when you use a product that is too much for what the finish needs? You`re going to damage the finish. Or are you?

By that same token, I don`t want to use one that is too light, and do a lot of work for nothing. How do you tell if its too light, or too heavy of a polish/compound? How do you make sure that what you`ve chosen to use, is just right for that particular car at that particular time? I don`t know that I`ll ever feel confident until I know exactly what I`m supposed to be using on a given vehicle.

Any suggestions on how to overcome this perceived obstacle? Perhaps there is a kit somewhere, that comes with polishes and compounds that cover the whole spectrum.

[ShawnF350]

I started out with a GG6 which I read you have.
Bought the GG pads at first (orange and red then black )
In my opinion the Griot`s polishes really stunk.
So being scared I went with a bottle of Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish.
Suggested by Meguiars when I called their helpline.
If the polish didn`t remove what I was correcting, I stepped up to the Compound.
I now have a collection of polishes, pads and polishers.
We`re all chasing the shine. I`ve found so many products yield the same results. My personal favorite is Poorboy`s.
Remember that even an aggressive pad can be scary.
And when you fall into the Autopian funnel, you`ll never get out of it.
Just ask Ron.

Tonight I did a Waterless wipedown on a hood section of my wifes Edge .
Did a test spot with some Natty Black.
Wiped it with a cheap microfiber and as I`m doing that cursing as I`m seeing that it scratched the clear all up.
Toyed with some mild polishes by hand. .and Ultimate Polish got most of it by hand.
Guess i just learned it`s a soft clear.
Good luck and post any questions.

[RDKC]

I also started with the GG6 (still using it atm) but I chose LC Flat pads and are still a steady choice (though my pad collection only consists of a few different ones so far and one you can`t seem to get any more.) I started with Meguiar`s UC and UP and still reach for them at times with a small array of other polishes to choose from.

You`ll get more confident with every thing that you polish, only way to do that is to get to work.

With that said...

Test spot, test spot, test spot.

Take a section with defects and test your least aggressive combination. If, without experience, you have no clue and really want to play it safe, play it safe. Try UP on a polishing pad, if that didn`t get the results you want step it up to UP with an orange pad, then UP to Yellow, etc. etc. etc.

[bennylava]

I knew they had scratchier, and softer pads, but I wasn`t aware that it was all that much of a concern. So actually your pad, is a major consideration? That just throws in another variable. From everything I`ve read, I`m of the belief that there`s a right product for every finish. But how to find out which?

I guess just using everything you`ve got on different test spots, until you find the one that shines the best? Then a wax after that. I just don`t understand how the pro detailers decide what they`re going to grab off of the shelf, when their shelves are populated with 50-100 different compounds and polishes.

[RMD]

It`s certainly understandable to be overwhelmed at the beginning. Most of us were at one time I would guess. But there`s no reason to be intimidated, there is virtually zero chance of causing any real damage with a GG6 and basic light cutting or polishing foam pads. for pads, you can do pretty much whatever you will need with a few each of the lake country white polishing, black finishing, and orange light cutting pads. For polish, there are several very user friendly brands i would recommend like HD polish or Meg`s ultimate, or the GG boss perfecting polish. For a compound, I would highly recommend the GG boss correcting cream, very easy to use, no learning curve at all. As stated above, start with polish on a black pad, and do a test spot. If you get the results you are satisfied with, then you`re done. If not, step up to polish on the white pad. If there are still swirls or scratches, use the orange pad and the boss correcting cream.

Have fun, play around with it. the only way you could hurt the paint with those products and pads is if you throw the polisher at the car from across the garage.

[BlkToy14]

A new word: Polpoundaphobia... Scared of polishes and compounds.

[RDKC]

I knew they had scratchier, and softer pads, but I wasn`t aware that it was all that much of a concern. So actually your pad, is a major consideration? That just throws in another variable. From everything I`ve read, I`m of the belief that there`s a right product for every finish. But how to find out which?

I guess just using everything you`ve got on different test spots, until you find the one that shines the best? Then a wax after that. I just don`t understand how the pro detailers decide what they`re going to grab off of the shelf, when their shelves are populated with 50-100 different compounds and polishes.

There really isn`t (at least IMO) just one perfect combination for every individual vehicle. Too many options of everything for only one to be the perfect product.

I believe you said you flip cars, correct? I`m assuming with that you are turning a few wrenches during this so, I`m going to try to equate it to something related in hopes of conveying what I`m getting at.

You have a 7/8" (head) bolt you need to remove, it looks pretty corroded and is threaded into aluminum. Would you you a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove it? Heck no, you`ll snap your mechanism and still have a bolt to remove. 3/8" drive ratchet? That might do the trick, and everything else is across the garage. Heck, you decide to give it a try. It didn`t budge, not even in the slightest. You could apply more pressure but don`t want to break your tools. Now, you have to get up and walk over to your box. You have your 1/2" ratchet and a breaker bar (I have one of those... it`s collecting dust in my drawer) so you grab what you need and go back. You grab one and give it a go. It barely turns. You might be able to get it out with it, but it feels rough and is taking a lot of muscle to get it there.

So, whether it be mentally or physically (and for whatever reason) you started at the least aggressive approach. You immediately ruled out a 1/4" drive because you knew, from experience, that it wasn`t going to work. You stepped up to 3/8" and decided it wasn`t safe enough. Moved up to 1/2" and got some results, just not quite what you were looking for.

Now what do you do? You could let it soak in some penetrating oil. What`s that going to hurt? That didn`t work, well, impact or torch. It`s aluminum though so do we want to risk an impact? I know I don`t, I learned my lesson after a few threads came out with the bolt. Next in line, heat. So glad it`s not 100* out today. You heat it up and it backs right out with your trusty 1/2" ratchet. ** The End **


I know, I know. Oddly written (I`m bored) and slightly stretching the bounds of relevance but I`m hoping you can relate and understand what I am trying to say. It`s how a lot of people approach most things in life but they never think about it.

In case my lunacy went straight over everyone`s head - experience is the cheat code. With experience you`ll know that you can`t polish Chevy paint with "water", that that Porsche`s paint may be horribly soft and you definitely don`t want to start with a wool pad and HD Cut. Until that time, play it safe. Start small and work it up. It doesn`t take too much time but it can save both time and money in the long run. Let me correct that, it almost definitely will save you time and money in the long run.

Now that my insanity is done...

Check out this article over at AG: How To Do a Test Spot (Sorry ACC)

[bennylava]

I don`t think its crazy. I think it was a great reply. Believe it or not it helped. This whole thread helped. Except that one guy...

So basically, spot test until you see the result you are looking for. Then do the whole car, then wax.

So my next question would be, is it actually very common to have to use a compound, then come back with a lighter polish? Or do you generally just spot test with different polishes until you find the right one, and then you`re ready to go?

[JSFM35X]

There was a guy named David That was a pro who helped me imensly. He taught me how to polish basics in a post. He said take a bathroom scale into the garage. Put a pad on your buffer and the place the pad size on the scale like your going to buff it. Press on the scale until you see 15 lbs on the scale. That the proper correcting pressure for a gg6. Next buy a finish polish and a finish pad, a lite cutting pad and a mild cut polish. Stop there unless your a professional.

Try the fine polish on a finish pad and work a 12 inch square area. Use 15 lbs of pressure and make 3 slow passes ( 4 seconds across 12 inches). right and left and the mice down 3/4 of a pad length until you reach the bottom then to the same thing north to south starting on either the right or left side. Wipe and examine. If it not clear enough step up first in pad then In polish aggressiveness. You will need to come back to clarify a cut pad with a Polish pad in most cases to get a top notch pop.

Good Lucy.

[Don]

Test spot, test spot, test spot.

Take a section with defects and test your least aggressive combination. If, without experience, you have no clue and really want to play it safe, play it safe. Try UP on a polishing pad, if that didn`t get the results you want step it up to UP with an orange pad, then UP to Yellow, etc. etc. etc.

This is so important - especially while learning when & how to use what compound (or polish) that it bears a repeat: TEST SPOT, TEST SPOT, TEST SPOT. And ALWAYS start with the LEAST AGGRESSIVE combination of pad/product that you have.

[Don]

I knew they had scratchier, and softer pads, but I wasn`t aware that it was all that much of a concern. So actually your pad, is a major consideration? That just throws in another variable. From everything I`ve read, I`m of the belief that there`s a right product for every finish. But how to find out which?

I guess just using everything you`ve got on different test spots, until you find the one that shines the best? Then a wax after that. I just don`t understand how the pro detailers decide what they`re going to grab off of the shelf, when their shelves are populated with 50-100 different compounds and polishes.

bennylava:

Take a deep breath, step back a few paces and FORGET YOUR FEAR. This is nowhere near as difficult as you are making yourself believe. I can`t speak for the other polishes, because I haven`t used them, but Meguiar`s Ultimate Polish is VERY gentle and you can easily change it`s effects by using a softer or more aggressive pad (I don`t like the term `scratchier` because it`s totally inaccurate and sounds like you`re scouring the paint, causing damage, not compounding or polishing I.E. correcting damage).

As for your 2nd paragraph, I doubt you will EVER have 50-100 different polishes and compounds, for one - THERE IS NO NEED. Especially for a DIY type guy who only does his own and maybe a few other family/friend`s cars. Personally for the past few years, I have gotten away with just 2 polishes and 1 compound (don`t ask me about waxes though, there I can go overboard). They are Meguiar`s Ult Compound, Meguiar`s Ult Polish and Klasse AIO (a chemical polish - no abrasives, just chemical cleaners). With JUST these three products and 2 different grades of pads (Megs thin yellow polishing and thin maroon cutting) I have been able to make my last 3 cars look like mirrors.

With just the 2 different kinds of pads, and 3 different polishes, I in actuality have 6 different products: The Ult Polish can either be a light polish (with polishing pad) or a med/light aggressive polish (with the cutting pad). The Ult Compound can either be a light cutting compound (with the polishing pad) or a heavier cut compound (with the cutting pad). The same with the Klasse it is either a light cleaner applied with the polishing pad (like applying it with soft cotton) or a heavier cleaner with the cutting pad (like using terry-cloth or microfiber applicators, which are more aggressive).

Listen to all the advice being given, we are not trying to confuse you or make things more difficult. Just break ALL the different products into 3 categories and it will make it easier. 1) Polishes, 2) Compounds, or 3) Waxes/Sealants/Last Step Products.

[briarpatch]

If you don`t already have this....here`s a copy of Autopia`s polish comparison chart.....maybe it will help a little.....

[rlmccarty2000]

The test spot is where you will figure out your process for the entire car. Saying that, you can take a look at the car and sorta know if it needs to be compounded or not. Swirled up and lots of scratches? Compound. Light marring after claying? Polish. Some of these new compounds are LSP ready after use. If your car has mild scratches and swirls try one of the many AOI products. With the AOIs you can use a firmer pad to remove defects. Just don`t over think it. If it is not fun take it to a (reputable) pro and let them do it. But if I remember correctly you are doing this for resale. If I was in the resale biz it would be AOIs and call it a day. Most folks are not looking for perfection in a used car, they just want to see that the paint is in decent shape prior to purchase. My suggestion would be CarPro Essence with a microfiber pad. Essence leaves a good layer of protection behind. You could go with a cutting microfiber for more defect removal and a finishing microfiber for less severe defects.

[pwaug]

Here`s a list of articles and video`s by Mike Phillips from AutoGeek. You can pick and choose the ones that could answer the questions you have in your mind. You could also order Mike`s book all about detailing over at AG.

LINK: Car detailing articles by Mike Phillips

[Stokdgs]

BennyLava is in the business of flipping cars, no ??
He is really wanting to find that 1 product that will do all of the guess work for him and get a great look at the same time, on almost all paintwork..

What would be the best for his business model I believe, would be a great, paint cleaner, polisher, and filler - you know, what all the used car lot guys use.. That stuff..

Benny, is this what you are really looking for ??

I dont have anything like that Production Shop product, so perhaps someone knows of a few out there ??
Dan F