Undercarriage detailing

[House of Wax]

Sub`n to this thread as I`m looking to pick up a fox body mustang soon

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[nothingface5384]

Sub`n to this thread as I`m looking to pick up a fox body mustang soon

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Nice
You going to drag it autox or cruiser?

Think its wolfs performance? That fixes all the short commings with the rear tri 4 link
otherwise theres 2 companies last i checked that offers a torque arm/3 link...cant remember which hah

[House of Wax]

Cruiser

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[Accumulator]

With POR15 coming up so often in threads like this, I`d like for somebody (besides Yours Truly) to compare some of the various Paint Over Rust products currently available...I certainly have my (rather strong!) opinions/preferences, but I`m curious what others would think if they tried a few different products. I find I can`t even boil it down farther than three (five or six if you count products that aren`t really "paint") different ones for different applications.

[4u2nvinmtl]

Didn`t get a chance to do it this weekend (wedding + hang over) maybe next weekend before I go on Vacation

[nothingface5384]

With POR15 coming up so often in threads like this, I`d like for somebody (besides Yours Truly) to compare some of the various Paint Over Rust products currently available...I certainly have my (rather strong!) opinions/preferences, but I`m curious what others would think if they tried a few different products. I find I can`t even boil it down farther than three (five or six if you count products that aren`t really "paint") different ones for different applications.

It has been beat to death over several forums for decades(mainly offroad forums)
Their was atleast one that had a test comparison
POR-15 is still considered top and most widely used
Chassis Saver is another..rumored to be same spec as por 15 just cheaper. .
never found proof saying it was..nor saying it wasnt. .
the 3rd is Rust Bullet which is a 2 part process
def not as good as the others
those are the 3 best rust encapsulater options out there
the rest are either copies or worthless rust converters
follow ut up with Secondskin audio spectrum/firewall or lizard skin and I think youre golden

[Accumulator]

It has been beat to death over several forums for decades(mainly offroad forums)
Their was atleast one that had a test comparison
POR-15 is still considered top and most widely used
Chassis Saver is another..rumored to be same spec as por 15 just cheaper. .
never found proof saying it was..nor saying it wasnt. .
the 3rd is Rust Bullet which is a 2 part process
def not as good as the others
those are the 3 best rust encapsulater options out there
the rest are either copies or worthless rust converters..

Huh, my experiences were different...but I`ve only used the following "paint over rust" products (not including ones that I don`t consider paint):
-POR15
-Rust Bullet
-Eastwood`s Rust Encapsulator
-KBS Rust Seal

Just my experience, but of those four the POR15 ranked last.

[nothingface5384]

All im going to say is results are dictated by prepwork
did you degrease and use a zinc etch product if you grinded to bare metel..or sid you just slap it on over rust
either way interesting
myself and others where always otherway around
I know always top my rust encapulator with liquid audio insultion like spectrum for extra measure

[nothingface5384]

Btw looked up Rust seal,
Sounds way better then anythingbove listed
supposivly branched away from POR and made a way better version
I`ll make that my new combo
rust seal/spectrum

[4u2nvinmtl]

I did a little online digging and found out that my current rust proofing is less than reliable (company/product called "Rust Check"). The product tested and chosen by the Canada military for rust proofing in Eastern Canada is called "Corrosion FREE" anyone try this stuff?

My game plan is ever changing...

New undercarriage plan:
Rinse -> APC/Degrease -> Rust seal (only some area`s) -> Corrosion Free application by a shop

I would re-do the above yearly along with more regular undercarriage rinses.

[MiVor]

Sounds like a plan, but I would pressure wash (and not drive) one or two days (during dry weather) before you have it done to better ensure it`s good `n dry when it`s sprayed. That`s for the undercarriage - what about inside doors, rocker panels, fenders, etc....?

[Accumulator]

4u2nvinmtl- There are just *so* many different products like that these days! Yeah, the testing by the Canadian Military oughta be good for something.

nothingface5384- Yes indeed, when you can go the proper prep it makes all the difference! Especially if you can get to bare metal, then things ougtha go great. What I find tricky is the cases where I just can`t do that and have to literally "paint over rust". Yeah, you`re not supposed to do that but sometimes that`s just all ya can do. Rust Converters can help, but sometimes those don`t work out great either.

There are so many things that can go haywire...

If you try the Rust Seal I hope you`ll post back about how it goes for you (and !oh man! I hope it works out OK since I suggested it). Always hard to say how this stuff will work for somebody else...and even just *my* experiences have varied (I`ve had Eastwood`s Rust Encapsulator fail when I would`ve *sworn* I`d done such good prep that it`d work great).

My relative dislike of POR15 stems mainly from a few cases where it simply didn`t adhere, including one time when a bodyshop used it on a frame (frame-off project) only to have it fail miserably (they assured me they did the prep right). OTOH, I have some POR15`ed areas on the underneath of my Tahoe that`ve held up great, so it`s not like I despise the stuff or anything.

The Rust Bullet seems to take a good bit of care when applying, and I have to do more coats than they recommend; the "pinholes from gas escaping" can be problematic.

So far the KBS Rust Seal seems the best overall, but I haven`t used it long enough or for as many jobs as the others so IMO the jury might still be out.

[4u2nvinmtl]

Sounds like a plan, but I would pressure wash (and not drive) one or two days (during dry weather) before you have it done to better ensure it`s good `n dry when it`s sprayed. That`s for the undercarriage - what about inside doors, rocker panels, fenders, etc....?

The inside of the doors will be left as is and new rustproofing will be re-applied. As for the rocker panels, and fenders will be done to the best of my ability (I can access them easily because I installed plastic push pins that are reusable). Luckily they`ve all been sprayed with rust proofing (multiple times) and after reading so many car forums on this subject I`ve concluded that the difference between the rustproofing products (Rust Check, Krown, Corrosion Free) seems to be mostly negligible (anything is better than nothing).

[Accumulator]

4u2nvinmtl- So you`re *not* going to shoot anything inside the doors? Are they already done with something? The lower-door seams always worry me...

[4u2nvinmtl]

So far the KBS Rust Seal seems the best overall, but I haven`t used it long enough or for as many jobs as the others so IMO the jury might still be out.

Do you coat everything (as much as possible) or did you just do very specific spots (with the Rust Seal and/or other products)? That`s my current internal debate...

Clearly there`s no winning the battle with rust just prolonging it (other than replacing body panels with carbon fiber) so I guess the real problem is that no one is sure how much time rust proofing efforts will buy before parts rust out and need replacing.