Help detailing my brand new white car

[aguy1222]

Thank you all for your tips and advice, I greatly appreciate it. Im a bit confused as to whether or not a polish is needed or not based on the replies I am receiving. I thought claying a car wasn`t abrasive? If I were to polish the car would I be using a light polish and not something to aggressive?

[tom p.]

A, welcome aboard! Most will typically do a polishing phase as part of the overall routine. I really can`t see any downside apart from the time it takes. A lighting polishing step will be fine.

Enjoy the new car!

[Accumulator]

aguy1222- Welcome to Autopia!

I`d do a chemical decontamination to preclude "rust-blooms" which look awful on white. Doing it chemically is better than claying. I prefer the ValuGard ABC system, which is approved/recommended by all the major automakers but there are other products on the market these days.

(Nothing wrong with claying, but just because many of us can do it without marring the paint that doesn`t mean everybody can. And claying doesn`t truly eradicate ferrous contamination the way a chemical decontamination can.)

No need to polish unless the clearcoat is marred up, and doing it by hand would be a *MAJOR*, and very difficult, undertaking. Shouldn`t be necessary on a new white car anyhow unless you`re extremely particular.

I`d go over it with a good All-In-One product and then use FinishKare`s FK1000P. Lasts for many months, cleans easily, and looks great on white. Nothing wrong with Klasse Sealant Glaze (I use/like/recommend it), but it really only comes into its own with four or more layers and that`s a big job compared with one/two coats of the FinishKare (which will last as long as many coats of KSG).

[aguy1222]

I was hoping in using a sealant because I keep hearing that they are more durable and last much longer than a wax. So my new plan would be to wash, clay, light polish, sealant and a wax to make it pop. Everything will be done by hand because I cannot afford a polish machine right now.

[tom p.]

A, nothing wrong with that strategy. Personally, I`d do 2X on the sealant and skip the "wax".

Harbor Freight has a real cheap polisher that many have purchased. Buy it for yourself for your birthday

[Stokdgs]

Im with Thomas Dekany - if you use a claybar, claytowel, etc., you will need to polish or even correct paint that is in need of it..
I have never done that step without coming back and correcting and/or polishing.
But then I want the highest level of clarity and gloss before I apply an LSP, Sealant, or Coating..
If you look at any of Thomas Dekany`s stunningly clear and glossy vehicle`s pictures posted here, there is much to be said about following up with correcting and/or polishing after the claybar..
One just has to decide what level of clarity and gloss you`re aiming for..
Dan F

[Accumulator]

Doing the decontamination chemically can avoid that whole "claybar-instilled marring" issue while doing a more thorough job. OK OK I`ll quit beating everybody over the head with the idea now

This oughta be easy...ABC it, quick going-over with something like ZAIO. Next two washes give it a coat of FK1000P after the wash. Then just wash it for five months and give it another coat of FK1000P for Winter.