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  1. #91

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Nav45- Glad it`s going well.

    Wonder what those spots on the wheels are..

  2. #92

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    Nav45- Glad it`s going well.

    Wonder what those spots on the wheels are..
    Hey Accumulator, most of them are simply stuck on the wheel barrels. I`m thinking of trying a tar/iron removing product like Trix.

    I just washed my car and in the sunlight, on some sections, I saw more swirls and fine lines than I thought there would be. LOL, my orange pads are still drying or I would be probably polishing right now.

    Either I didn`t press hard enough or didn`t do enough passes on certain sections (maybe both). On some sections, the vast majority of swirls and fine lines are gone though. It seems like a lengthy process but no big deal.

    I also did a test by putting my hand inside a plastic bag and lightly rubbing it against the paint. I felt some bumps on some horizontal surfaces so I might clay again.

    Thank you so much, Accum!

  3. #93

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Nav45- As always, You`re Welcome.

    Yes indeed, it certainly *can* be a long and drawn-out process no matter what ya see on the internet Don`t go driving yourself nuts over it, I bet it looks really good in real-life terms, like "best in the parking lot"-good.

    I *am* confident that you can get the wheels a lot better, I`ve brought back some that were really, *really* bad; as long at it`s not to the point of pitted aluminum/totally compromised finsh you should be able to make more progress.. Yeah, try a solvent and let it dwell for a good long time.

  4. #94

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    I`m going to be doing one more slight paint correction to the car in the next few days. I noticed very, very small fine lines that I would like to remove. I also clayed again last week and I think doing some polishing afterwards might be good? Of course, I don`t want to over-polish either. I`m trying to find a good balance. I think I will use less aggressive pads this time (green and white) so as to do as little damage to the clearcoat as I can. Hopefully these can remove most of the fine lines. If not, then that`s fine too. There has been quite an improvement so it`s great.

    Accum, I`m going to try again with the wheels. There are some dark spots, grime and stuck on black dots that need to be removed. It`s from years of baking on I guess. I`ll try some products and see how they go.

    Afterwards, I`m thinking an APC will be good for cleaning wheels and tires.

  5. #95

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Nav45- Sounds like you`re going about the correction with the right mindset.

    Let your solvent *DWELL* for a good long time on the wheels, like saturate a cloth and find a way to hold that against the stuff. Try scraping (sensibly ) with something like an old credit card (if you don`t have plastic razor blades, which I find very handy).

    Maybe I`m just wasting my $, but I usually use a Rubber Cleaner on my tires and 99% of the time I use a sorta-strong (regular) shampoo mix on the wheels/wells/etc. Only time I use Wheel Cleaner (which I do generally prefer over APCs, and it`s often less alkaline too which can be important) is on beater-wheels that I don`t care about enough to LSP. And when I say "LSP" I don`t necessarily mean some big involved Autopian-level job either.

    I`m just a little careful/leery/?paranoid? about using APCs for myriad tasks the way so many people do.

  6. #96

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Hey Accum,

    I tried Tar X today. I sprayed it on and let it dwell and then used a wheel brush to clean up. There was quite an improvement though I think I may need to do this a few more times because those hard black spots still remain (though less now). For now, the wheels are better. Good suggestions on the wheel cleaning. Appreciate it.

    I also did some polishing today and have gotten better results as well. There are still swirls and fine lines remaining though. These are proving to be quite stubborn. The swirls are not always present when I`m correcting but can be seen later so that`s an issue. I`m thinking of just keeping on using the HD Polish and orange pad combo. Not sure if I want to go more aggressive. I do have a compound but I`m not very comfortable using it.

    Question: Stick with the current HD Polish with orange pad method or go with Meguiar`s Compound for Mazda paint?

  7. #97

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Nav45- Glad the wheels are getting better, that shows that the approach if effective even if not all that efficient. Sometimes it just takes a whole lotta doing the same stuff over and over.

    Similarly, isn`t it something how tough the paint correction ends up being?!? Sounds like what you`re doing is very, very gentle (OK, that means safe too). IF you really care enough to want to correct it, at this point I`d move up to a more aggressive product. While it`s good/safer to make incremental progress, it sounds like it`s just not getting the job done. OVERALL, you oughta end up taking off the same amount of paint anyhow, so I don`t see any harm/risk in taking off, say....two-thirds of what`s required with a more aggressive approach. You could do even more (I would) before stepping back down to the HD Polish, but go by what seems right to *you*.

    Do you care that much? (Would you if you weren`t a member of Autopia?) Can you *keep* it marring-free or will you be back at square-one after a year or so? I recommend that you think it over.

    Oh man do you need to get your inspection lighting/conditions sorted out....that`d drive me nuts not really knowing how well the effort is going.

  8. #98

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Accum,

    I used a compound yesterday and it seemed to do the job. I think I can safely say that majority of the paint defects are removed. One thing that is worrying me is that for the first time, I saw actual paint on the pads. I`m figuring this was probably needed in order to remove the swirls and other defects but still. I might have to do one more session of lighter polishing down the road but overall, it`s gotten quite a bit better. I`m just afraid of using the compound again, lol. I hope I don`t have to.

    Just wondering if its OK to see some paint on the pads. After all, I`m fairly sure this car has thin paint to begin with. I`m hesitant to do some paint correction but I think I will do one more minor polishing in the next few weeks. You`re quite correct about the lighting. I`ve just been doing it in the shade and then pulling into the sun in order to see progress. This works but is not as accurate if there was proper indoor lighting.

    I was going to get another car but have decided to keep this one for a while so that`s one reason I`m trying to make it look good. Also, I want to learn detailing. Plus, I`m paranoid, obsessive, and a little crazy, heh.

    I do appreciate it!

  9. #99
    A Miracle Detailing Merlin's Avatar
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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    What year did you say the car was?

    Has it ever been in an accident or repainted?

    Is the paint transfer only on certain panels you polished?

  10. #100

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Nav45- Some areas of many vehicles aren`t cleared, but those are out-of-the-way spots, not the exterior body proper.

    If things appear OK, then I wouldn`t worry, but I do wonder where the pigment came from...

  11. #101

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by Merlin View Post
    What year did you say the car was?

    Has it ever been in an accident or repainted?

    Is the paint transfer only on certain panels you polished?
    Merlin, the car is a 2008 and has never been repainted. Yes, it`s on some sections. The pads were turning darker in color so I`m assuming that is paint (the car is a medium gray color).

    I`ve had some tell me to be careful using an aggressive approach on the car. I tried not to. I used the finishing polish for several polishing sessions and some of the micro scratches and tiny swirls would not come off. It`s only after using the compound did they come off but in the process, apparently some of the paint might have come off as well. I guess I now understand how aggressive a compound can be. Maybe I should have continued making multiple passes with the finishing polish? Oh well.

    Thanks.

  12. #102

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    Nav45- Some areas of many vehicles aren`t cleared, but those are out-of-the-way spots, not the exterior body proper.

    If things appear OK, then I wouldn`t worry, but I do wonder where the pigment came from...
    Things do appear fine but I am also curious about what really happened. The pads weren`t totally covered in supposed paint but some of them appeared to get darker.

    I think I`m going to do another light polish for a slight touch up and leave things the way they are. Things have gotten better so there is no point in doing "more."

    You mentioned cleaning the car safely to prevent swirls and scratches. For this, I will do rinseless washes and will try to be cautious and aware. I share your thinking in that I don`t want to keep on polishing. For that, proper maintenance is important .Thanks.

  13. #103

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Nav45- If they`re just stained with dark [whatever it might be] as opposed to actual paint pigment, then no worries...lots of things can do that.

    I wish you the best with those rinseless washes, *I* can`t wash marring-free that way, at least not unless I pressure wash first and then do the dirtiest areas with other methods.

  14. #104

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Hey Accum,

    I`m going to use multiple towels (some call it the Garry Dean method) for the rinseless washes. If the car needs it, I will also pressure wash it first. My plan is to wash the car weekly or bi-weekly at the most. I will try to keep in touch with you about how it`s going.

    I think I`m basically done polishing for now. I`m quite happy with the results. I`m very thankful to the help here and of course, you, Accum. Thank you!

    Some questions:

    -I`m thinking doing a mild polish once a year or so will be good now?
    -I`ve clay barred the car twice now. Is using an iron removing product really beneficial?
    -I`ve applied an LSP to the wheels. The spokes are fairly clean and the barrels have improved but aren`t totally clean. I`m ok with that. I only applied the LSP to the spokes but not the barrels. Is this the right way?

    Thank you.

  15. #105

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    Re: About to start paint correction - need some help

    Quote Originally Posted by Nav45 View Post
    Some questions:

    -I`m thinking doing a mild polish once a year or so will be good now?
    -I`ve clay barred the car twice now. Is using an iron removing product really beneficial?
    -I`ve applied an LSP to the wheels. The spokes are fairly clean and the barrels have improved but aren`t totally clean. I`m ok with that. I only applied the LSP to the spokes but not the barrels. Is this the right way?

    Thank you.
    If you do the washes right and avoid any touching between those washes, you shouldn`t have to polish annually (I virtually *never* polish my vehicles, not for years on end). Whether or not you need to use a polish (well, at least an abrasive one) will depend on whether the paint needs any correction or not. If for some reason it needs worked on for other reasons (removing oxidation, stripping off "dead wax" artifacts, etc.) you can use a Paint Cleaner or All In One and remove less clear than regular polishing would.

    The iron-removing chemicals can get off (ferrous) contamination that the claybar didn`t completely remove (clay will often leave minute amounts of stuff down in the pores/etc. of the paint). I used to occasionally get recurrent "rust blooms" when I only clayed, but eliminated the problem for good when I used the chemical approach. But hey, if you don`t have any ferrous contamination issues, then you don`t need to use something that resolves those issues.

    I would`ve pulled the wheels off and done the barrels and the backsides of the spokes too, but that`s just me. The LSPed areas will stay a lot cleaner than the bare areas, but that only matters if it matters to *you*.

 

 
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