Originally Posted by Accumulator
Worked great on a guards red 911 too. And that`s reasonably soft paint.
Originally Posted by Accumulator
Worked great on a guards red 911 too. And that`s reasonably soft paint.
Originally Posted by Striker
I prefer microfiber pads, make sure you run the pads over a dampend MF towel and a nylon bristle brush after every section.
Never used mf pads- am I good with megs cutting and finishing mf pads?
Since I have a brand new bottle of m105, would it make sense to go with m205, followed up with m09 on a gray finishing pad?
Originally Posted by Striker
Never used the MF finishing pads, sorry :nixweiss
Since I have a brand new bottle of m105, would it make sense to go with m205, followed up with m09 on a gray finishing pad?
I find M205 isn`t always the best on ss as it has "sharp" abrasives. But it might work fine in your case, won`t know until you try. BUT...using M09 afterwards will diminish the gloss and probably make it look "worse". IMO we`re talking two very different approaches here, not necessarily compatible.
My supplier carries the megs mf cutting pads, so I`ll use those with m105. The tangerine pads you recommended with m80 aren`t available so ill need to find an alternative pad to work with here. As for m09 he also said doesn`t show that in stock as well. M09 should be something I can use with a gray finishing pad?I`ve got one for my rotary.
*found out m09 isn`t available in canada at all*
Striker- I`m just not a fan of M205 any more, but it might be the simple answer here instead of M80 and/or M09.
Quick question. Can you wet sand then polish SS like B/C?
Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Laquer, yes.
Enamel gets a bit less definite as there are some enamels that simply don`t "come back" once they`ve been sanded. OK, I can`t recall running into one of those since the `70s. but it *can* be an issue.
Originally Posted by Accumulator
Thanks for the reply. A friend of mine painted his VW Bettle a really nice blue color but has a few "issues" he wants me to take care of. I`ve only worked with B/C.
LilJayV10- Heh heh, always risky trying to fix issues for friends, especially where there`s some wildcard in the mix like that ss paint. You don`t want any bad feelings if there`s an "oops!".
My `57 Chevy doesn`t have much original paint left after years of trying to keep it "shiny". I found Megs #9 with a buffing pad (no pad cut) to work for maintenance purposes. But Autoglym SRP with a polishing pad takes out micro marring better, but removes more pigment. I still get a lot of pigment to clean off the polishing pad with either product (56 year old paint), so the product - not the pad - is evidently cutting..
bill57- Huh, I`m always interested (and surprised!) to hear about SRP having cut. Maybe I just use it with a milder pad, or my technique is more gentle, or something....or maybe it`s some kind of "chemical" action going on :nixweiss
Cool that the car still has original paint, and props to you for keeping it that way!
Actually, I began using SRP on my `85 Olds because I was getting down on paint thickness on edges. I used a white pad on the `85, and it did cut a little. Wanting even less cut on the `57, I used the SRP on a black pad. Got a lot of dead pigment on the pad.
In the early nineties, I was reluctant to use anything that would cut, so I simply preserved what I had with the then state-of-the-art Blue Coral Autofom.
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