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  1. #1

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    1) Sealants, like my menzerna power lock have no real protection properties against UV right?



    I normally use sealant then 1Z wax on top.



    2) Also, i`m fairly new to detailing and I was reading the wiki yesterday. They were talking about chemical stripping of old wax. A quick search turned up a Griot`s pre-wax cleaner product. What other options are there for cleaning after polishing and before sealant/wax.



    My process if I am doing full exterior is

    wash, dry, clay with ONR lube, polish stages, sealant, wax.



    3) Lastly, is everyone masking all their trim every time they wax? Is there another way to get close to trim without masking? I have a couple really nice two-density foam hand applicators I havent used yet, but I was thinking on using them right up to trim for wax and final polishing.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfoxengr
    1) Sealants, like my menzerna power lock have no real protection properties against UV right?



    I normally use sealant then 1Z wax on top...


    To be honest, I`ve never given it any thought, IMO the whole UV Exposure thing is vastly overstated (to sell products ). Never had any issues with UV damage to LSPed paint, whether it was sealed or waxed :nixweiss But I`m not parking my vehicles outdoors in AZ either, so I guess it`s situational.



    I sure don`t top *my* sealants with wax, if I didn`t like how the sealant worked by itself I`d just switch to something else.



    2) Also, i`m fairly new to detailing and I was reading the wiki yesterday. They were talking about chemical stripping of old wax. A quick search turned up a Griot`s pre-wax cleaner product. What other options are there for cleaning after polishing and before sealant/wax.


    IMO you don`t need to strip the old LSP all that often, but I guess that`s a different discussion!



    Likewise, strippig old wax and cleaning the paint between the polishing and LSPing steps are two different things (very similar for practical purposes though).



    Many (most?) people use IPA (rubbing alcohol) to do both. I *GREATLY* prefer PrepWash from TOL (link: Silicone & Wax Remover ).



    If I want to clean things up after polishing (and that`s a pretty big "if", not like I always do it, not by a long shot) I use the PrepWash.



    If I want to strip all the wax/sealant off an already LSPed vehicle (and that`s a *REALLY* big "if"!) I`d probably do a regular wash first and then rewash with AutoInt/ValuGard`s "A", or maybe FK1119.



    Or you could just wash per usual, and then go over the vehicle with a paint cleaner like Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion or Zymol HD Cleanse or P21s GEPC, but most such products leave stuff of their own behind.



    My process if I am doing full exterior is

    wash, dry, clay with ONR lube, polish stages, sealant, wax.


    I trust you`re only polishing on a very infrequent basis, like...once a year at most.



    Again, I`d only use one LSP, either a sealant or a wax, and leave it at that. I`d rather just refresh that one LSP now and then (without stripping what`s already on there).



    Oh, and I`m a big proponent of using very mild clay to "clay the LSP clean". No, I don`t bother doing that every time I LSP either (oh my, Autopian Heresy! ) but that`s just me.



    3) Lastly, is everyone masking all their trim every time they wax? Is there another way to get close to trim without masking? I have a couple really nice two-density foam hand applicators I havent used yet, but I was thinking on using them right up to trim for wax and final polishing.


    I basically never tape before LSPing, I just work very carefully around areas where I don`t want to get my LSP on something. A straight-edged applicator can be handy for such stuff, just make sure your LSP is evenly/properly distributed on the applicator. I also use swabs for certain areas.



    Remember to always apply THIN THIN THIN...much less product than you think you need to use (a tin/bottle of LSP oughta last many, many years even if you`re doing Suburbans). IMO most people use far more product than is needed, which leads to all sorts of issues. Think you need more product on your applicator? Try wiping it across chrome, or gloss black plastic, or glass (e.g., headlights). Most of the time you`ll find there`s plenty of LSP still on/in the applicator. When you`re finished is there an appreciable amount of product that needs to be cleaned out of the applicator? If so, that`s a clue that you used way too much.



    OR...just use LSPs that are trim-friendly. LSP the trim along with the paint and solve two issues at the same time.

  3. #3

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    Yes, I should have said, polish (if required). Thanks for your answers. They were very helpful.



    I do have a problem with buildup of the Menzerna sealant in my Black Uber pad. When I clean it there is quite a bit left over. I`m psychologically worried about letting it run dry though and getting too hot on the paint surface.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfoxengr
    I do have a problem with buildup of the Menzerna sealant in my Black Uber pad. When I clean it there is quite a bit left over. I`m psychologically worried about letting it run dry though and getting too hot on the paint surface.


    I understand completely..."gee, better make sure I have enough on there!"



    Never used the Menzerna sealant, so maybe it behaves differently from what I have used, but maybe try to, uhm....see how little you can use while still priming the pad uniformly. Try turning the machine down to a lower speed.



    Maybe that sealant/pad combo just isn`t optimal :think: I got so frustrated trying to get the sealant/machine pad combos just right that I finally just switched to doing it by hand, and I`m the guy who uses a machine even for paste waxes! I just can`t quite get that "properly thin and uniform application" by machine.



    I get the Gold LC LSPing pad would work better, people who use that simply *LOVE* it.



    I still wonder about your UV concerns and [repeat my opinion about topping sealants].

 

 

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