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  1. #1

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    Rust sickens me :faint: I noticed that my 2003 SUV has pockets of rust on the undercarriage. Since I don`t drive it on salty (Canadian) roads and take great care in detailing, this drives me crazy. I did not get it undercoated when I bought it because most advise I got was this is a rip off by dealerships. I have read countless discussions about this topic. Talk about rust converters/inhibiters etc.etc.etc. Krown/Rustcheck. I approached a dealership, they said the only permanent way to get rid of the rust is by "sandblasting". Sanding does not get rid of the pitted rust. Also some cheaper oil/grease sprays can damage rubber seals etc. I want to keep the truck for at least 10 years. What would you guys do?

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxter
    Rust sickens me :faint: I noticed that my 2003 SUV has pockets of rust on the undercarriage. Since I don`t drive it on salty (Canadian) roads and take great care in detailing, this drives me crazy. I did not get it undercoated when I bought it because most advise I got was this is a rip off by dealerships. I have read countless discussions about this topic. Talk about rust converters/inhibiters etc.etc.etc. Krown/Rustcheck. I approached a dealership, they said the only permanent way to get rid of the rust is by "sandblasting". Sanding does not get rid of the pitted rust. Also some cheaper oil/grease sprays can damage rubber seals etc. I want to keep the truck for at least 10 years. What would you guys do?


    Please don` t go telling us you believe in that electric rust inhibitor devices...



    I got my MPV undercoated with polyurethane at 15 mm` s thick. (Should be around 1/2 inches or so)

    Not only did it help prevent corrosion but it also muffled all the tire roll noise and alike. The vehicle is much more silent now...



    May give you an idea...

  3. #3

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    I bought a bronco recently and I am planning to take it to a place that bead blasts it then applies an oil based undercoating. That should take care of it.

  4. #4

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    If you can get to all the rusted areas you don`t need to media blast it. If you can see it, you can usually get to it.



    You can clean it, chemically remove the loose rust, use a rust converter on what`s left, paint with *an appropriate product* (very important to use the right stuff), and then spray on a black rustproofing (or a rubberized undercoating). I`ve done it (more than once) and it worked fine.



    There are basically two big players in this game: POR-15 and EASTWOOD. I`ve used both and I`ve found the Eastwood stuff to be markedly superior (especially when it comes to ease of prep and general user-friendliness). Eastwood`s derusting/converter/Rust Encapsulator/Undercoating process works great if you take the time and care to do a remotely thorough job.



    Oils/undercoatings don`t damage rubber/plastic in my experience. I cleaned some 21-year-old stuff off my RX-7 (prior to redoing it) and it hadn`t hurt anything. I had parts of my Jag oil-sprayed nearly 20 years ago and no problems from that either. Note that I use these processes on virtually perfect collector vehicles that I will be keeping indefinitely.



    Be careful with media blasting as it can get into inaccessible areas and can also strip areas you might not subsequently paint/undercoat. I like media blasting (and, similarly, tank-dunking) when I`m completely disassembling something (i.e., frame-off jobs) but otherwise I`d use the process described above. If you media blast, you`ll still have to deal with the inner surfaces on things like frame rails, which will call for the Eastwood-type approach anyhow. Be sure to mask/plug everything and watch that the media doesn`t mar your paint (no way would I go with sandblasting due to the nasty nature of that media; it`ll scratch stuff you`d never even think of).

  5. #5

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    accumulator....have you used por15 or rust encapsulator on a bad weather car?



    last summer i removed all my suspension arms and stuff and had them blasted ...they came up great , i then por15`d them as per their instructions ...after very light light winter use(prob 50miles in salt and 500 total winter miles) theres small rust spots showing already



    i kinda thought that they would last a long long time

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by steveo3002
    accumulator....have you used por15 or rust encapsulator on a bad weather car?



    last summer i removed all my suspension arms and stuff and had them blasted ...they came up great , i then por15`d them as per their instructions ...after very light light winter use(prob 50miles in salt and 500 total winter miles) theres small rust spots showing already



    i kinda thought that they would last a long long time


    Yeah, I`ve used the POR-15 on stuff that got exposed to the elements and it worked OK for me when it adhered (didn`t always do that so great). Yours should`veprotected it longer, dunno what went wrong for you. If I had to take a wild guess I`d say that you should`ve done another coat of the POR-15 and/or topcoated it. Besides my stuff, I know people who`ve subjected their PORed stuff to all kinds of salty abuse with no problems.



    The stuff I used Rust Encapsulator on hasn`t been exposed to the elements and I pretty much coated it with black undercoating anyhow just to be on the safe side. I was pleasantly surprised at how nice the undercoating looks and would recommend it as a topcoat for applications like this.



    If I were you I`d go over the parts you can get to with a rust remover and then scuff with maybe 320 grit sandpaper. Apply two more coats of the POR-15 letting the first one dry as long as you can without requiring more scuffing (I forget the rules for that). Then spray it with black undercoating from Eastwood. It won`t look *quite* as much like shiny black paint as the POR does, but it`ll stay matte-black for a good long time with no rust bleed-through.

  7. #7

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    well i wiped it over and applied a thick underbody wax that ive had good results with..its dinitrol , i duuno if you have that over there



    all i can think is i put it on too thin...as rust had started on a couple of edges of brackets that i did too...thing is i put 3 coats on these areas, by por15s spec that should handle marine conditions!!



    i guess if i use por15 again, i will use 3 coats, then overcoat with chassis black, then underbody wax once fitted...if it rusts then , ive done all i can

  8. #8

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    Sounds like you have a good handle on what you need to do. Next time I`d try the Eastwood stuff, I truly believe it`s better than the POR-15.

  9. #9

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    THANKS GUYS for your suggestions. Since writing, i have further research the problem. Sandblasting not for me. Neither yealy oil spraying. As you recommended. I`m going to look into POR-15 or Eastwood products. Yearly or by-yearly oil sprays I don`t think is for me. I don`t want the accumulation of oil that will occur over the years plus all the grim & dirt that oil will attract & embed itself. Then in subsequent years your spraying over oil & dirt. Where I can see the rust I will treat it , spot by spot. Again. . .thanks guys for helping me. :goodjob

  10. #10

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    maxter...if you go for por15, its great but follow the intructions 110%



    in some ways i think its best to make localised repairs to rust spots and leave it at that......if you cover the whole under side in goop then ok its keeping alot of salt/damp out , but it also hides rust until its really got bad



    accumulator .....ive tried the eastwood RE , its alot softer than por15 but seems to be okay...to be honest i think the best you hope for is to slow rust , i cant see it being stoped by anything

  11. #11
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    Three is another POR-15 type item that you might be intersted in looking at. I looked at it along with the Eastwood product. I`m planing on trying one soon. I`ve used POR-15 in the past and it worked out pretty well but I`m always willing to try other things



    http://rustbullet.com/Products/Autom...Automotive.htm

  12. #12

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    yeah ive tried rust bullet too....seems as good as por15

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by steveo3002
    in some ways i think its best to make localised repairs to rust spots and leave it at that......if you cover the whole under side in goop then ok its keeping alot of salt/damp out , but it also hides rust until its really got bad



    accumulator .....ive tried the eastwood RE , its alot softer than por15 but seems to be okay...to be honest i think the best you hope for is to slow rust , i cant see it being stoped by anything


    Yeah, the POR-15 does dry harder. I think of the RE as sorta a primer-sealer that`s not too picky about the preceding prep. So far, the big difference between it and the POR is the way the RE simply *sticks*. I and others I know have had the POR-15 not adhere; a body shop I used to patronize, who had used it before, had it come off quite badly when they did a Caprice frame of mine! They assumed their prep was faulty, but they couldn`t figure out what they must have done wrong (they`d used the Marine Clean and Metal Ready) so they took it all off and redid it with something else. That sorta scared me off POR-15 even though it never failed *that* badly for me. Thank goodness they discovered the problem before putting the body back on the frame.



    The steering parts on my Caprices (that *I* did myself) always held up will with the POR-15, but I was a fanatic about prepping them properly.



    I wouldn`t use this sort of stuff for an area that really matters, but for undercarriages, especially where you`re dealing with thick pieces of roughly finished metal, it works quite well.



    Here`s a case where it *did* work on an area that mattered and it stayed fixed: I had some rust in the inner crimp-welds of the Jag`s trunk lid, inaccessible areas. The sort of area where you simply can`t get to all of it, can`t even see some of the area in question. I was looking at a new trunklid and I didn`t like that idea. I had Stoddard`s body shop do it, and they used POR-15 and then also sprayed in the drainage holes with a "creeping" wax-based rustproofer (I forget what it was, but I`d bet it was Wurth`s Body Protection). I was not optimistic, but it`s over 10 years later and the rust has stayed at bay, not a trace of recurrance.



    The Eastwood undercoating dries much more/cleaner than I`d expected. The undercarriage of the RX-7 is IMHO a lot nicer now than it was with the combo of factory and dealer applied undercoatings. This is not the sort of stuff that`s gonna be a sticky/gooey mess; it was another nice surprise. I sprayed AutoInt`s Rust Inhibitor in the subframe rails and that stuff is *not* as neat and clean, but that`s sorta what you want for areas where you`d like it to spread to areas you didn`t actually spray.



    Hmm..never tried the Rust Bullet.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Murat
    Please don` t go telling us you believe in that electric rust inhibitor devices...



    I got my MPV undercoated with polyurethane at 15 mm` s thick. (Should be around 1/2 inches or so)

    Not only did it help prevent corrosion but it also muffled all the tire roll noise and alike. The vehicle is much more silent now...



    May give you an idea...


    Wow, that must have added another 200 pounds to the weight of the car! :grinno:

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Murat
    I got my MPV undercoated with polyurethane at 15 mm` s thick. (Should be around 1/2 inches or so)

    Not only did it help prevent corrosion but it also muffled all the tire roll noise and alike. The vehicle is much more silent now....


    I somehow glossed over the MPV reference in the about :doh



    I bet that *did* improve the noise etc. My MPV is one might cheaply built vehicle with all sorts of noice/etc. issues. The undercarriage has stayed surprisingly rust free with not undercoating, but then again I clean it at every wash...

 

 
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