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  1. #31
    Wax Waster Ronkh's Avatar
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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by boxingfan30 View Post
    are you one of those shopaholics I talked about? lol
    i`m the original.
    Formerly the "Best Detailer", now just Super Wax Waster Man. Not necessarily tactful, but normally right. It`s good to be da King !!!
    Likes 4u2nvinmtl, boxingfan30, 512detail liked this post

  2. #32
    Ummm.... Ya..... TroyScherer's Avatar
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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    With stuff like PNS, Hydro2, Sonax BSD, Reload, WetCoat; that are super easy to apply and last 3 months or more do we really need to use a coating anymore? For are easy as they are the beading and sheeting I have seriously considered just going with the "toppers" and skipping the coatings altogether.
    Likes Ronkh, Junebug liked this post

  3. #33
    Wax Waster Ronkh's Avatar
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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by TroyScherer View Post
    With stuff like PNS, Hydro2, Sonax BSD, Reload, WetCoat; that are super easy to apply and last 3 months or more do we really need to use a coating anymore? For are easy as they are the beading and sheeting I have seriously considered just going with the "toppers" and skipping the coatings altogether.
    Ahhhhhh

    That make too much sense. There has to be another way.
    Formerly the "Best Detailer", now just Super Wax Waster Man. Not necessarily tactful, but normally right. It`s good to be da King !!!
    Likes 4u2nvinmtl, Oldfordisbetter liked this post

  4. #34

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronkh View Post
    Ahhhhhh

    That make too much sense. There has to be another way.
    To be fair, there really is quite a good amount of scratch resistance with the coatings, the question for me remains... is that area important enough to outweigh the fact that many coatings are indeed a lot of work, and they are more maintenance than the companies let on. Like I said, you now have suggestions to use spot removers, and things such as reload, or vs1, or cure, all coatings have some sort of topper that isn`t cheap and while it may last a while.. it`s not really doing the consumer a favor who believes that once this coating is on, for 2-3 years his/her troubles are over, it`s not gonna scratch and it`s going to look brand new after every wash or rainstorm.
    Likes Ronkh, RitcheyRch, Junebug liked this post

  5. #35

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    That`s what we were lead to believe. Now making me second guess getting a coating if there is just as much work involved in maintenance.

    Quote Originally Posted by boxingfan30 View Post
    To be fair, there really is quite a good amount of scratch resistance with the coatings, the question for me remains... is that area important enough to outweigh the fact that many coatings are indeed a lot of work, and they are more maintenance than the companies let on. Like I said, you now have suggestions to use spot removers, and things such as reload, or vs1, or cure, all coatings have some sort of topper that isn`t cheap and while it may last a while.. it`s not really doing the consumer a favor who believes that once this coating is on, for 2-3 years his/her troubles are over, it`s not gonna scratch and it`s going to look brand new after every wash or rainstorm.

  6. #36

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by RitcheyRch View Post
    That`s what we were lead to believe. Now making me second guess getting a coating if there is just as much work involved in maintenance.
    It also depends on your environment... if it`s mainly rain, which has a low PPI or PPO? level, and your not using harsh town water and such, it`s not as big of a deal... for me, it`s been an absolute constant irritation, knowing I need to buff the rest of the CQUK off. Perhaps look into the Dr. Beasley`s coating... the person on page 2 (don`t recall his name) said he hasn`t had any issues thus far. There`s got to be some sort of coating that actually does the job without the upkeep. I`d rather have a hard coating that wears off in 6 months than one that is said to last for 2 years and I start having issues with it at 6 months.
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  7. #37

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    hardly any rain here in Southern California. Was considering a coating to save me from spending hours on the weekend cleaning the car and keeping bug splatter and bird crap off.

    Quote Originally Posted by boxingfan30 View Post
    It also depends on your environment... if it`s mainly rain, which has a low PPI or PPO? level, and your not using harsh town water and such, it`s not as big of a deal... for me, it`s been an absolute constant irritation, knowing I need to buff the rest of the CQUK off. Perhaps look into the Dr. Beasley`s coating... the person on page 2 (don`t recall his name) said he hasn`t had any issues thus far. There`s got to be some sort of coating that actually does the job without the upkeep. I`d rather have a hard coating that wears off in 6 months than one that is said to last for 2 years and I start having issues with it at 6 months.

  8. #38

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by RitcheyRch View Post
    hardly any rain here in Southern California. Was considering a coating to save me from spending hours on the weekend cleaning the car and keeping bug splatter and bird crap off.
    so those are your top priorities? Scratch resistance isn`t at the top of your list? (not that any of us here wouldn`t like to have better scratch resistance) You really have to ask yourself what your top priorities are. Accumulator for instance is a huge... and I do mean HUGE fan of FK1000P and I have used it myself and do like it. It holds up well to heat (about 215 degrees IIRC) and it`s very good for resisting bird droppings and makes cleaning bugs and such off a much easier process. He also feels it sheds dirt very well, though it`s been a while since I have used it so I don`t recall that area myself. It`s about 20-25$ for a large tin of it (paste wax) and it would likely take a few years to use it all up.

  9. #39
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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    I`d rather wait at least a year before speaking anything more about the Dr. Beasley`s. But I`ll admit the cost of it is refreshing as well as BulletProof v2.
    Some others i`m testing cost a whole lot more and not sure I see a great difference for the cost.

    It`s almost the new tech version of my old Carnauba Fetish I want something reliable and keep what they promise within reason. Price and ease of usability of course a plus.
    Likes Ronkh, boxingfan30 liked this post

  10. #40

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    So I just did my first two cars with two different coatings and prior I was all in with Zaino. I really loved the look of Zaino and was easily layered. Eventually, I was applying a layer ever week with z2 and then clear seal and all in all the car looked incredible, was slick and beaded and sheeting amazing. After reading about all the coatings, I went with Blackfire Crystal Coat and 22PLE signature. Conclusions as follows:

    a) Sealants are much easier to put on. I did learn that either needs eraser or another IPA (I didn`t do an IPA before a Zaino application and it streaked like crazy). After doing the coating it was obvious that the IPA removes polishing oils and if you don`t use an IPA, it probably will botch a sealant and definitely coating application.

    b) Both 22PLE and Blackfire have to be watched like a hawk when they are flashing. If you miss a spot, be prepared to repolish and reapply. In my applications, I went very slowly and found I needed at least 2 hours to apply and buff off. Was pretty painful.

    c) Sheeting and beading - coatings are the winner. I saw like a 1.25 inch bead on the 22PLE car and the sheeting was amazing; that is not to say sealants don`t bead and sheet, it was just clear to me coatings are better.

    d) Durability - undetermined - they will go through a northeast winter in a few month so next march I will examine the beading sheeting. I can say last winter, I had 10 coats of zaino and it was still getting good beads and sheeting (although the car is garaged) after the winter.

    f) Finally, and most importantly, looks - somewhat a disappointment in the coatings. After reading about the amazing gloss of 22PLE and Blackfire coatings, I thought the car was going to look more reflective than Zaino. To be sure I could really see this, I spent 10 hours re-polishing the cars with pf4500 which brought out the deep black on my lexus and the deep blue on a ford tarus. I assumed the coatings would then add "reflectivity" to the car and it didn`t really pop. To some extent, the Zaino actually looked better (i got the shimmering look with zaino). I was disappointed for sure but I have to assume it needs a topping (vs1 sealant for 22ple and Blackfire instant detailer) which I am hoping will help. It may be that coatings are really a durability play and as long as I can get through the winter I don`t care about durability. I haven`t decided yet but looks are the most important criteria for me so it may be back to sealants.

  11. #41

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by mbpress01 View Post
    So I just did my first two cars with two different coatings and prior I was all in with Zaino. I really loved the look of Zaino and was easily layered. Eventually, I was applying a layer ever week with z2 and then clear seal and all in all the car looked incredible, was slick and beaded and sheeting amazing. After reading about all the coatings, I went with Blackfire Crystal Coat and 22PLE signature. Conclusions as follows:

    a) Sealants are much easier to put on. I did learn that either needs eraser or another IPA (I didn`t do an IPA before a Zaino application and it streaked like crazy). After doing the coating it was obvious that the IPA removes polishing oils and if you don`t use an IPA, it probably will botch a sealant and definitely coating application.

    b) Both 22PLE and Blackfire have to be watched like a hawk when they are flashing. If you miss a spot, be prepared to repolish and reapply. In my applications, I went very slowly and found I needed at least 2 hours to apply and buff off. Was pretty painful.

    c) Sheeting and beading - coatings are the winner. I saw like a 1.25 inch bead on the 22PLE car and the sheeting was amazing; that is not to say sealants don`t bead and sheet, it was just clear to me coatings are better.

    d) Durability - undetermined - they will go through a northeast winter in a few month so next march I will examine the beading sheeting. I can say last winter, I had 10 coats of zaino and it was still getting good beads and sheeting (although the car is garaged) after the winter.

    f) Finally, and most importantly, looks - somewhat a disappointment in the coatings. After reading about the amazing gloss of 22PLE and Blackfire coatings, I thought the car was going to look more reflective than Zaino. To be sure I could really see this, I spent 10 hours re-polishing the cars with pf4500 which brought out the deep black on my lexus and the deep blue on a ford tarus. I assumed the coatings would then add "reflectivity" to the car and it didn`t really pop. To some extent, the Zaino actually looked better (i got the shimmering look with zaino). I was disappointed for sure but I have to assume it needs a topping (vs1 sealant for 22ple and Blackfire instant detailer) which I am hoping will help. It may be that coatings are really a durability play and as long as I can get through the winter I don`t care about durability. I haven`t decided yet but looks are the most important criteria for me so it may be back to sealants.
    I want to clear up that 22ple doesn`t need to be polished off, simply going over the area again will knock a high spot down, though IMO 22ple is by far the easiest coating to apply that I`ve used and as long as you stick to the directions, you`ll have no problems.

  12. #42
    52split's Avatar
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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by boxingfan30 View Post
    I want to clear up that 22ple doesn`t need to be polished off, simply going over the area again will knock a high spot down, though IMO 22ple is by far the easiest coating to apply that I`ve used and as long as you stick to the directions, you`ll have no problems.
    I have tried so many waxes, sealants, and coatings over the years.

    Favorite Waxes: Blackfire Diamond wax
    Pinnacle Souveran (favorite)

    Favorite Sealants: Zaino, Duragloss

    Coatings I have tried: CQuartz UK, Optimum Gloss Coat, 22ple, Kamikaze ISM

    Out of all of these I would go with....

    Toss up...Gloss Coat and Kamikaze.
    "Courage is being afraid but saddling up anyways." - John Wayne
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  13. #43

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by RitcheyRch View Post
    That`s what we were lead to believe. Now making me second guess getting a coating if there is just as much work involved in maintenance.
    Personally, I would never ever use a sealant or wax on my personal cars. From my experience, Coating`s are so superior, in every way - mar resistants, easy of maintenance, the freshly detailed look after each wash, not having to worry about sap/tar/bird etching etc... and lastly - no need to reapply Opti Coat.

    Here is one of our cars, after 1 year - all I ever do is wash it and washing it is very easy. No contamination, no water spots. The rinse is the initial one not after a wash.





    In case it doesn`t work, click the link below

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0I5tutr3N0
    Likes RitcheyRch liked this post

  14. #44

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Dekany View Post
    Personally, I would never ever use a sealant or wax on my personal cars. From my experience, Coating`s are so superior, in every way - mar resistants, easy of maintenance, the freshly detailed look after each wash, not having to worry about sap/tar/bird etching etc... and lastly - no need to reapply Opti Coat.

    Here is one of our cars, after 1 year - all I ever do is wash it and washing it is very easy. No contamination, no water spots. The rinse is the initial one not after a wash.





    In case it doesn`t work, click the link below

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0I5tutr3N0
    is that because you are an authorized opticoat dealer perhaps? I know plenty of people on both sides of this argument, the truth is that after a bit of time oc looks less than stellar, or perhaps just boring is the right word.

  15. #45

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    Re: Coatings vs. Standard LSP`S discussion

    Quote Originally Posted by boxingfan30 View Post
    is that because you are an authorized opticoat dealer perhaps? I know plenty of people on both sides of this argument, the truth is that after a bit of time oc looks less than stellar, or perhaps just boring is the right word.
    You do realize that no one held a gun to my head to be an installer? My car after 12 months looks as glossy as the day I installed OC Pro. If OC was applied correctly, the look doesn`t diminish - the difference between OC and nano sealants aka coatings. After how many months did OPTI COAT PRO started to look boring on your car?

 

 
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