i`m gonna wash the car in the AM, I always like to try/useOriginally Posted by Anthony A
new products.
Thanks for the info
i`m gonna wash the car in the AM, I always like to try/useOriginally Posted by Anthony A
new products.
Thanks for the info
I used Greased lightening and I too top it off with WD-40. I do find that it attracts dust but after you wipe it down once it stays clean for a long time just keep wiping it down every now and then.
1999 Grand Voyager SE 3.3L
1987 Crown Victoria 5.0L
I spray the whole engine bay directly with degreaser, scrub all over, rinse, start and dry then spray down with WD-40 and wipe! Never had any issues except with water getting in the spark plug holes on inline 4 cylinder engines, now i plug the holes before i start. I`ve washed 100`s of motors this way; no fires from the WD-40.
Oh yeah, use some steel wool on aluminum parts!
I just bought some Griots engine shine. Anybody used this product? New to this, just looking for some ideas...thanks...
My 01 4x4 Tacoma has a 2.7 engine and I have used Mean Green on the engine for several years now and I also just use a pressure hose at the car wash to rinse it off. My engine is spotless and I have never had a problem. Most of todays engines are sealed enough that you don`t have to worry about water. On all the hoses and plastic parts I use a spray wax like Duragloss AW and wipe it down. The wax helps keep the dirt off and it looks so good people can`t believe it when they open the hood. Mike
after 12+ years of detailing, I had to chuckle at the WD40 comment, as I have previously only heard that from Farmers in the past. WD-40 is NOT safe for finishes especially under the hood where you will find a good amount of heat!
Use a water based product after washing the engien bay and before washing the car. This way any over spray on the exterior of the car can be washed off quickly. After the car is finsihed you can go back and touch up any "dry" spots as well as any excess. Once you get good at this, you will not need to go back with much touch up at all under the hood.. Awter based products are great becaseu the tend not to atract dust as much! IN fact I have a customer show me under the hood of his 2007 Camry that I detailed 4 months ago and it was still almost perfect! That was 6000 miles ago!
I have used Water based dressing for 16 years and have always been happy with the end results. I have read in several publications that the silicones in water based dressings wreak havoic with electrical systems, so i always try to only lightly mist or just wipe around anything i think might be a problem. I have had maybe a total of 6 engine problems that weren`t something as simple as just being wet and after completely drying were fine. The problems I have had, had nothing to do with my technique but with existing or impending issues with the vehicle. One warning I would give is to be careful if you intend to pressure wash your underhood mat. On some vehicles this mat is very fragile and can be torn apart by the pressure. It will also take a very long time to dry and will drip water out of the front of the hood for hours. It can be washed, just keep the nozzle far enough away as to not cause damage.
I had to go to the WD-40 website just to be sure:
"What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 on?
WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40."
So it is safe for rubber and plastic. However, I do agree with the some of the suggestions so far:
- don`t go to far in between cleaning
- use a degreaser (simple green works for me)
- use a rubber/vinyl protectant on hoses & plastic
I oscillate between:
Meg GC Vinyl/Rubber Protectant
Meg Endurance
303 Aerospace Protectant (probably my favorite and hardy devcon1 protectant)
Z16
Stoner Trim Shine (**not a true protectant - but it sprays down into the hard to get spots and really cleans and get things looking tidy where I can`t possibly put my hands or brushes)
For painted parts, I used a MF sprayed with QD.
If you stay on top of the engine monthly or less, then you don`t have to go to the using the hose part. Very risky....
WD40 will work, and so will most tire dressings. I dont think that the shine will last very long with wd40. As far as being safe, it is made to displace water, and you just washed your engine with water.On plastic and rubber use a tire dressing . On shinny metal use a qd.
I`ve used WD40 on an engine bay and I`d recommend some other multi-purpose dressing. WD40 works great for other extreme alternatives, but a dedicated dressing is better.
Liquid Finish Detailing North Carolina: Raleigh, Cary, Apex
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I`ve used Simple Green straight from the bottle, but slightly diluted works ok too. The only problem I`ve had was sometimes a little scrubbing is required, and I keep forgetting to buy a scrub brush when I have the $.
Adam`s In&Out spray is a great dressing for hard to reach places in the engine bay. For most of my engine detailing (which is only on my cars) I just use regular old Armor all. I clean and scrub the engine, spray it down with AA then let wipe it down and hand polish any reachable painted surfaces with an AIO product.
~werd to yo mutha~
Wade
yeah when i detail on the side i specifically do not offer this job as i do not want liability if i eff up an engine due to water damage or cleaner damage etc.
but would like to perfect the art sometime soon although we did detail engines in my old summer job i didnt do it too much only with the bosses supervision but now i am older im sure i can handle doing it right but havent tried again
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