newbie - I'm not worthy!!

[DuMouixe]

okay pics.... just a few pics and a few more questions, honest...

the car was clear coated about 3 weeks ago, I prolly mentioned... except the trunk and roof...
why??? you tell me... but the trunk lid is like the only noticable place for mass improvement...

1. I was missing this piece of plastic then noticed with my camera, brown staining on the seats, like the prep team put nasty old armor all on the seat belts.... gonna try hot water first, then 303 cleaner spot remover



2. I'm wanting to apply 303 protectant to the dash, but have heard it's best to clean thoroughly first.... maybe the 303 cleaner and spot remover??? simple green, lexol
something readily available if possible



3. I tried to clay out these scratches, maybe need to get out the compound.



I used Megs (( but this damage is pretty serious ))
paint cleaner (4)
scratch-x (4)
clay w/lube, then wash soap - (2)
paint cleaner (1)
clay w/ was suds - (2)
paint cleaner - (2)
scratch-x (4)
then gave up and ran out of time, wanted some shine
nxt - (4)
S100 - (1)



4. At least the back of the car took on some flavor

[Reflections]

You can't clay out scratches. It will remove any clear coat that's raised above the surface, but so will a compound or polish, which is what you need to use anyway, depending on the severity of the scratch.

[White95Max]

I'm not seeing what you see in the first pic.

Yeah it's best to use a plastic cleaner on the dash or other plastics/vinyl before applying a protectant. 303 cleaner would work fine. Some protectants though, like Trim Restorer or Natural Look contain cleaners as well, so they do both steps at once.

[DuMouixe]

First pic, look left of the seat belt, and top of the seat cushion, hopefully it's just a lense flare, lighting O-R it's possible that it's just sun damage. Anyways, would have never noticed if I hadn't taken a snapshot, I have to hunt down that piece of plastic above this area, another story.

Here's a better angle. I'm thinking hot water on a damp rag. That's always my first answer. I'm not really that OCD, honest, had I not seen this photo, I just figured I should investigate.



On the dash, I'll look for Trim Restorer or Natural Look. Are they readily available?? ((I'm a Autozone shopper))
I like a matte look, but darker and richer... Prolly try the 303 first. I sent away for the 2oz sample pack, ((2oz. bottles of 303 protectant, 303 cleaner and spot remover, actually wondering if the 303 cleaner and spot remover is as good as the 303 aerospace cleaner for a prep??))

Maybe hitting the L.A. Auto Show and going around the detailer area, and pickup a years supply all at once.

[White95Max]

Trim Restorer and Natural Look are Poorboy's Products. They aren't readily available for most, but you could order them from Patrick and http://www.exceldetail.com and have them next day. He's in Thousand Oaks, CA.

And Trim Restorer will darken the plastic and leave a matte finish.

[DuMouixe]

Okay, that stuff looks pretty good. Looks about the same as 303 from description and price. But I'll try it once I'm out of the 303.

Poorboys Pro-polish?? That might be the ticket for those scratches? Anyone here used that stuff? Should I ditch the #7?

You saw that panel, How abrasive should I get? Now I'm starting to worry.

Also any feedback on the Griots Garage line of stuff?

[DuMouixe]

805 is too far for me to drive, but maybe I should do some confering with some local reputable detailers on my ride, It's real hard to get a feel for paint in a picture.

I live in Pomona, closest to Ontario maybe.

[White95Max]

1 pass with SSR2/green might take those scratches out. Otherwise I'd go SSR2.5/green. I haven't used PB's Pro Polish, so I'm not sure how aggressive it is. The #7 would be best for filling scratches. It is non-abrasive, so it won't *remove* any scratches/swirls. Neither will clay.

I haven't tried any Griot's products either. They're a bit too expensive for my taste...and I'm not one to buy EVERY product out there just for the sake of trying it. If a product doesn't offer anything more than the products I have, there's no reason to spend money on it.

[Accumulator]

DuMouixe- Welcome to Autopia!

Sorry to hear about all the trouble's you're having with your new Mazda. Sounds like the dealer really messed up. When they want to reshoot paint, IMO that's the time to say "no way, gimme another car that's still in the plastic" but I suppose that's water under the bridge at this point.

Some of Griot's products (e.g., Interior Cleaner, Car Wash) are very good, so don't completely write them off.

I would skip the Griot's polishes if those were among the products from them that you were considering. If the clear on your Mazda is like that on my '02 it's too hard to really correct with their stuff (at least easily). The stuff I use (3M PI-III line) is no longer commonly available so see what others (such as White95Max ) are recommending these days. Meg's #80 is too mild for some of that marring too. You want to do the equivalent of PI-III RC (05933) then PI-III MG (05937) but I dunno which of today's products are equivalent.

Hope the freshly applied paint had time to finish curing/outgassing/hardening before you put the NXT and wax on it I always wait at least a couple of months, using something like Meg's #3/#5/#7/#81 in the meantime after every wash.

Oh, and I'd take it easy with the Simple Green, it's a bit too harsh on some materials for my taste so I never use it.

[DuMouixe]

Thanks, it's nice to drive something properly cleaned maintained.

Okay, I'll be a little less enthusiastic with the Simple Green, In collaboration with Protect All, seemed to raise up, in this case, overspray, from the jams and seals and hold it there in suspended animation. It was a overspray correction I felt it needed. I like Protect All alot, but don't know much about it. I'm aware of the Simple Green's extreme properties, I cleaned out a oil pan that had 300k mi. on it once, because the part was unavailable, and I HAD to clean it, and the Simple Green, three bottles, blasted through mass sludge stuck on there since the 60's. So I usually dillute it with other cleaners. Just helps to have that 'bite' sometimes. But, yeah, thanks for the warning. I've seen folks use waaayyy too much and screw stuff up. I use as little as possible, and gauge the job beforehand.

Funny, after the waxes & polishes had a couple three nights to sit and work it's way in, the top of the trunk looks much better now. Swirlies are gone. Like glass, but a little bumpy. So, go figure. I'll still keep and eye on it. Still may go deeper next time with the polish.

Wondering about cleaning the clear coat with Poorboy's series after it has cured in about 4 weeks. ( 6 weeks total - that's the window I've decided to use )

SSR3
SSR2.5
SSR2
SSR1
ProPolish

They shot 90% of the car, left the trunk and roof as is, kinda, screwy, I did ask for another vehicle and will keep up that argument, all I can do is ask and they haven't really been ecstatic about the idea.

So, yeah, things are a little off balance with the look, of course, none of the modern bumpers ever match in general, all makes. But now there is a third hue. Possibly, once I am able to get the clear wet and do some polishing, maybe it will come together.

I am waiting 6 weeks before washing the car or getting it wet at all.

Yeah, #7, after a very careful, damp towel gently smooth in dirt removal. I was kinda wondering if SpeedShine is also
body shop safe... cause that would be the easiest way to go, from what I've heard..

Of course, I will have get the brakes wet to clean them. But I will just go slow and be careful to avoid the fenders.

I have 2 or 3 bottles of 3M, I'll check and see what I have, all I can say is the Imperial Hand Glaze is hard to work with. Maybe I was just out of practice when I used it. The NXT, on the other hand was almost too easy to use. The S100, also, too easy.

[Accumulator]

I found the 3M stuff I use on Mazda clear (pns 05933 and 05937) HERE if you want to consider it instead of the other stuff. It works great on Mazda clear- polish with two products and you're ready for your LSP.

I'm a bit abut what you're waiting for... It is *absolutely* OK to wash repaints and let them get wet (I've had literally dozens of cars painted over the last 30 years). Once the paint dries (as opposed to "cures") you can wash it. Paint shops almost always wash the car after they finish painting it (often inducing marring like what's on your trunk). Water simply doesn't react with automotive paint, there's no potential for damage as long as you're using water of decent quality and even then, it's no different from how the paint will be in six weeks or six years Just use a shampoo that doesn't have any wax in it (I use Griot's Car Wash or Meg's #00 or #62). Wiping it, as opposed to a regular wash, will be *MUCH* harder on the paint and I'd never do that if I were you

BTW, if *they* told you not to wash it, that's merely a tactic to blow you off for long enough that they think they'll be able to get out of being responsible for how it turned out. This is something certain places pull on customers they believe they can fleece. Heh heh, the paint manufacturer's info will prove they're fibbing if it comes to that, an Autopian called Mirrorfinishman recently contacted the major paint manufacturers about the *official* word on how to treat fresh paint and the only caution was to wait before you wax it.

The paint will continue to harden a bit, but you can almost certainly polish it now if the marring bugs you. But I guess I'd wait until it's cured and just polish it then. I do it both ways on my cars depending on how badly marred they are (I've worked paint that was a week old with no problems). But I'd fix that trunklid if it were mine, even if the marring is hidden at present.

The 3M IHG is a product you can use on fresh paint while it's curing. I prefer the Meguiar's products but the IHG is OK and it's not really hard to use (at least not tougher than #7 IMO). Just wash it, put the IHG on the repainted areas and go ahead and drive it

SpeedShine (from Griot's) contains carnauba- don't use it on the fresh paint. Just use the IHG or the Meg's #7 after a (regular) wash.

If the "hue" is off, then they might've got the paint tint wrong or used the wrong choice of metallic (there are more than one for some Mazda color codes) if they shot colorcoat or they might've used the wrong clear. This can be an issue with Mazda metallics, there are a number of variables that some shops don't consider and I've had them come out wrong in a way that really only shows under certain lighting. A lot of it has to do with what brand of paint was used. It's up to the painter to make sure that things like this don't happen and a reputable paint shop will redo it as needed to get it right. Heh heh, [insert smart-aleck quip about whether that shop sounds even close to reputable]

As for their giving you another vehicle, it sounds like it's a bit late for that For future reference- a) don't take the car/sign the papers unless everything is OK- I've turned down special-order new cars over pretty minor flaws, b) don't let them do *anything* to the car without your expressed permission, c) don't let paint guys do anything without discussing it with you in advance, and d) never take the vehicle if something's been messed up, call them on it then and there and don't leave until something satisfactory is in writing. Heh heh, or just find a dealer who'll treat you right so you don't have to worry about such things

[DuMouixe]

Well thanks, I've walked away from new cars too in the past. Not sure how this one slipped by, must have been hard up and needed a car. But I will DEFINATELY be more careful next time.
That's the hardest part, cause I know the difference and didn't use it. That I'll have to live with.

I actually took this car back to them for minor corrections and in both trips they caused collateral damage, new stuff, AND did not tell me before they shot the clear coat, told me I could wash it right away, didn't even MENTION it being clear coated at all. A couple days later I notice interior pieces missing, bent covers, door pull creases.... Had I washed it within the first 10 days, it would have looked like a pig on steroids.

I mean the car is looking better and better all the time, but by what means is my only gripe. Detachment is where I am trying to put myself. The end goal being that vehicles finish and not my own folie, or personal disappointment, ya know?

Well, it's supposed to rain here for the next two days, so It might get a wash in spite of my best efforts. If so, I'll have to wash. Up until about day 10 out of the shop, it was very brittle. The slightest touch would become a scratch. Now it has hardened quite a bit. At a workable level. I had been 'placing' damp towels on there and 'peeling' them off, flipping them to the other side, recycle to the washer after a single turn, get a new cloth, etc... 'dusting' WITHOUT any motion to remove fingerprints and smudges and no re-placing dirty from one area to another. The car is actually quit dirty. My thought was wait as long as possible to give the clear the best chance set up. Somehow, I've heard 6 weeks without water and the clear get VERY hard. You know, I saw that thread on new paint drying times and newer technology, so if it rains and I wash it, so be it. I almost hope it rains, can't quite decide.

I'll check, haven't placed an order with Griots yet, Maybe the NXT wash is good enough for now, just the thought of moving a towel or mit around and scratching it, seems like a bit something?? If I end up washing it, I will wait the full 60 days to wax, even thought they said 30.

The body shop is pretty decent, I think the problem is that they are getting there marching orders from the Mazda dealer. They feathered in with microbeads a dent that should have been a panel swap. Talked to the dealer today, sounds like they want it back in the body shop... I might make them wait a few weeks, So I can clean the clear coat first to see what's actually there. And I asked them to refer me to a different dealer. They might clear in the parts they missed.... oh gawd.... (( lol at my own self, this is why you inspect the car BEFORE you buy it )) still having them 'go at it', afterwards in service is beyond our control. It will all work out.

Oh and thanks all for the tips and advice, keep 'em coming and Happy New Year!

Meg NXT wash (or non-wax equiv)
#7 (or IHG)
if it rains or maybe if it doesn't