Newb Questions...

galewis · 10-10-05, 10:24

Hey everyone...

Stumbled across this site via a google search... I cannot believe there are so many people dedicated to keeping their pride and joys looking great.

Surprised because I've never really been into car care before, probably beacuse I never felt like I had a car worth caring about... until now. I've just bought an ex dem (5000 miles) Citroen C4 VTS Coupe in metallic black (yes... now I know this is the hardest to keep looking good.... doh!)

I've yet to purchase any 'real' detailing products. However, my new baby needed a wash after its first week with me and so, armed with what I've read about car washing on this forum so far, I popped over to Halfords andpicked up a lambs wool wash mit, some Autoglym bodywork conditioning shampoo, a bucket, an Autoglym synthetic chamois and some mf cloths (ya' see... 'mf'..... getting into the lingo already

.....).

So... gave the car a wash which gave me the opportunity to have a real close look at the condition of the car. Some observations....

1. Not a fantastic factory paint job.... Noticed some orange peel on most of the vertical panels.

2. No swirl marks that I could see which I guess is good news, but there were a couple of marrs on the bonnet and one or two faint scratches here and there... Nothing that I could detect with a finger nail though. Also some light scratches to the alloy wheels.

3. Inside, was slightly more disspointing. There are a number of scuff marks on the door sills (where people have scraped their feet I guess) and what appear to be 'grease' marks in certain areas. Any advice on how to treat/mask these problem areas would be greatly appreicated.

I have been totally knocked out by what can be achieved with the porter cable 7424. I will be putting my order in very soon, but a couple of questions first:-

1. How do I know if I have a clear coat on my paintwork and does it make a difference anyway?

2. For the sort of paintwork defects described above, I was thinking of Klasse all-in-one to tackle the marks that I have. Is this sufficient provided I use the right pad with the PC? I'm planning to buy the complete kit with all the pads via autopia you see.

3. What to put on top of AIO bearing in mind my metallic black paintwork? I've read some conflicting stuff that states if I have a clear coat (not sure about that), then waxes are not the way to go. Is this correct? If so, what, if anything should I use?

4. When I was cleaning the alloy wheels I could clearly see the black stuff around the back. How do you get to it. Do you literally have to take the wheels off?

Thanks in anticipation. And by the way... if anyone considers themselves a top man at detailing then I am more than willing to pay the going rate for someone to come over to Peterborough and show me the way it should be done. Reading up is one thing, but as with most things in life, there is no substitute for one on one training I guess.

Gary

White95Max · 10-10-05, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by galewis

3. Inside, was slightly more disspointing. There are a number of scuff marks on the door sills (where people have scraped their feet I guess) and what appear to be 'grease' marks in certain areas. Any advice on how to treat/mask these problem areas would be greatly appreicated.

I have been totally knocked out by what can be achieved with the porter cable 7424. I will be putting my order in very soon, but a couple of questions first:-

1. How do I know if I have a clear coat on my paintwork and does it make a difference anyway?

2. For the sort of paintwork defects described above, I was thinking of Klasse all-in-one to tackle the marks that I have. Is this sufficient provided I use the right pad with the PC? I'm planning to buy the complete kit with all the pads via autopia you see.

3. What to put on top of AIO bearing in mind my metallic black paintwork? I've read some conflicting stuff that states if I have a clear coat (not sure about that), then waxes are not the way to go. Is this correct? If so, what, if anything should I use?

4. When I was cleaning the alloy wheels I could clearly see the black stuff around the back. How do you get to it. Do you literally have to take the wheels off?

Thanks in anticipation. And by the way... if anyone considers themselves a top man at detailing then I am more than willing to pay the going rate for someone to come over to Peterborough and show me the way it should be done. Reading up is one thing, but as with most things in life, there is no substitute for one on one training I guess.

Gary

Those grease marks can often be cleaned with a simple plastic cleaner, or some people use the Mr Clean Magic Eraser.

A clearcoat is nice because it adds depth and protection to your paint finish. That certainly doesn't mean that your paint can't look incredible though. You can find out if you have a clearcoat by rubbing a little polish onto the paint, and seeing if the applicator turns the color of the paint (in your case, black).

I've never been able to remove any swirls with AIO, but I think some people have. I'd grab a mild polish like SSR2 or SSR1.

I'm not sure where you heard that waxes are bad for clearcoated paints. That doesn't make any sense to me. Waxes may not be the right way to go for black paint though, since the temperature of the paint in the sun can reach temperatures above the melting point of the wax. Sealants are much more durable under high heat conditions, and thus are better for darker colored paints.

Yes it's best to take off your alloys and clean the backsides very well. Then apply AIO + a sealant, and it will never be difficult to clean the backsides again. They will wipe clean with ordinary car shampoo and a mitt. I take my wheels off at least twice a year to clean them and reapply sealant.

to Autopia!

galewis · 10-10-05, 10:57

Thanks for the response White95Max. Very much appreciated.

Regarding the comment on wax on top of clearcoat, it was something that the founder of this site (sorry... forgotton his name for the moment) said in one of the many articles I've read. He basically was saying that in these days of modern paint finishes, that he felt that the days of waxing were over (at least with the finish on his Porsche Cayenne), and that because of the milky natural properties of the really good wax (carnauba? forgive the spelling if wrong), it might not be as good as a synthetic wax? I may have gotten completely the wrong end of the stick however.

Thanks for your product recommendations. I'll keep an eye out for them.

Gary

pugoman · 10-10-05, 11:59

PSA paint jobs, tell me about it! My Peugeot has it's fair share of OP.

If you have a metallic colour, then you definately have a clearcoat over it.

Whilst Klasse AIO is a great product, it's not suitable for removing the scratches that you describe on your paintwork. AIO is a non-abrasive cleaner that leaves behind some acrylic protection. You'll need a mildly abrasive polish for removing surface scratches/swirls/marring etc. After you've dealt with your scratches, then by all means get some AIO on the paint - it provides an excellent base for virtually any wax or sealant.

Have a hunt around on the net and try to get some Carlack68 polish - it's virtually identically to Klasse AIO but comes in a 1 ltr bottle (twice the size of Klasse AIO) and only costs slightly more than 500ml of AIO. (Carlack are the German manufacturers of Klasse).

whizzer · 10-11-05, 12:16

pm Andyc 1 he should be able to help you out ...

Also Welcome

solaar · 10-11-05, 03:55

I found Carlack 68 here, think it came to about £21.00 delivered which didn't seem too bad.

http://www.afeonline.com/afeshop/ind...rget=d358.html

vindaloo · 10-11-05, 04:51

You can tell if you have a clear coat if no paint colour appears on your MF when using a polish. I almost sure that all major manufacturers selling in the UK now use a clear coat even on solid colours

When you get your PC I would opt for Optimum polish with an orange pad for a first treatment on your car to rid it of all the marring & any swirls that may be there. Follow this up with Carlack68 or AIO and then Poorboys EX or Wolfgang Sealant. To go the whole hog maybe top with Natty's Blue.
For regular 'top-ups' try Optimum car wax.

We all have our own favourites & there are only small differences between the regular products you see mentioned on here. Preparation & methods are more important than choice of product.

To compliment your washing kit, get yourself a waffle weave MF rather than the AG synthetic.

If your wheels are really that black at the back, yes you will have to take the wheels off. Initially get all the gunge off with a good quality (safe) wheel cleaner such as P21S, then polish with AIO & finish with PB's wheel selant ( 2coats). After that a simple wash each week should see them OK.

m4xmw · 10-11-05, 08:07

I have loads of advice to help you start out.
I have travelled to Poole from Manchester, for a customer.
So if you would like a detail/ tuition/ product sample session, just let me know.
I`v got some great pics of black vehicles to show you if required.

Mark

Ps I have family living in Oundle(nearby to you) also.

AndyC_1 · 10-12-05, 03:27

Happy to help mate - PM me if you want so we can talk cost and I'd be happy to come and show you what can be achieved!

galewis · 10-12-05, 09:53

Thanks for all your responses guys. Really helpful info.

Orders placed for all my goodies... Will post back when I've had a bit of a play.

Gary

solaar · 10-12-05, 11:43

I've always been very impressed with the look of Poorboys Ex-P on my black car.

Think some people said Optimum polish takes a very long time to work on a PC but it does seem to be a very versatile product.