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Are IPA and mineral spirits safe for clear coat?


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#1 gutierrezcl

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 06:14 PM

I have read a lot about using IPA for a thorough cleaning before claying or waxing but also I read a lot about using mineral spirits to clean tree sap (I'm dealing with a very resistant spot of tree sap).
I'm not comfortable using either but really afraid of mineral spirits and specially soaking tree sap with it for some minutes.

Are they really safe for clearcoat? Anyone has seen collateral damage of using them?

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#2 lawrencea

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 06:59 PM

Yes! they are safe.

#3 Richard Grasa

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 07:00 PM

They are both completely fine. You can let the mineral spirits dwell as long as needed. What you don't want to use are things like lacquer thinner and the like.
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#4 CEE DOG

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 07:57 PM

They are both safe. While these types of products can slightly soften paint temporarily they evaporate and the paint is normal again. Unless someone was to tell you it can soften paint you would probably never even know it. Alcohol evaporates the fastest and paint is not affected for long.

In short they are safe
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#5 JuneBug

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Posted 31 December 2012 - 04:45 AM

Another choice for sap would be Goo Gone - I've sprayed/prayed and got rid of some really thick, nasty sap on a car.
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#6 solekeeper

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Posted 03 January 2013 - 03:42 PM

Are these also safe on fresh paint finishes? Say.. a day old out of the spray booth?

#7 wilfredes

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 02:38 AM

Ahh! I stand corrected then, Thanks for clearing that up.
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#8 fremaochris

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 03:29 AM

You can let the mineral spirits dwell as long as needed. Posted ImagePosted Image

#9 TOGWT

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 04:49 AM

There are two main risks associated with using aromatic hydrocarbon solvents; both relating to the effects of solvent on the organic binder of the paint. The possible extraction (leaching) of low-molecular weight components of the paint binder by the action of the solvent and heat

The more acute element of risk in cleaning, however, is that of expansion of the paint through sorption of solvent. The polymerised urethanes dried oil network may not be truly soluble, but the polymer network may expand by sorption of solvent or concentrated alcohol molecules and silicone.

Depending on the degree of expansion, the paint will be more or less softened and its capacity to bind the pigment particles may be affected. In the swollen condition, there is a risk that pigment may be removed from the paint through the mechanical (friction) action of a foam pad.



“Wipe down (Scratch lie detector test) Process” - http://www.autopia.o...st-process.html

"Paint (Solvent / Alcohol) Swelling" – http://www.autopia.o...l-swelling.html


If you have any questions about these articles or the techniques used, please let me know or feel free to send me an email
Detailing Art; where applicable Chemistry meets Aesthetics See Autopia Detailing Wiki

#10 PiPUK

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 06:13 AM

I would echo the sentiments of TOGWT however I would like to see a bit more emphasis put on the solvent types in the various discussions I have read. Polarity and volatility are extremely important in solvent discussions but many detailers articles focus on IPA and mineral spirits - two products which are opposites in both polarity and volatility. I feel it might also be worth a bit more discussion of clearcoat composition, for this topic, because it should indicate which classes of solvent present a greater risk.

#11 SVR

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 03:31 PM

agree with you TOGWT. Solvents in compounds/polishes and coatings breaking down the paint over time is why I switched completely to water based products because of seeing what solvents do to paint, there's alot of cheap solvents in all bar a select couple of polish brands and some are even carcinogenic
Today's leading system. water based, burnproof, compoundless, correct, polish, finish at the same time. use in any order with any pads. no thickeners or solvents

#12 Ron Ketcham

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 05:43 PM

OEM and quality refinish paints are formulated and then tested to resist the effects of the benzene and toulene, other clorinated solvents as found as traces in gasoline.
Yes, the film build may swell temporarily, but once they evaporate the paint goes back to it intended and resistant state.
All of my testing data, by approved protocals, from the USA Big Three show the same as I have posted.

#13 CEE DOG

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Posted 04 January 2013 - 06:53 PM

I'm glad to see you post that Ron. That was exactly what I thought to be the truth thanks to testing and testimony such as yours and the good Dr. It makes sense if you consider the state of the paint when it was applied.
Continuous effort - not strength or intelligence - is the key to unlocking our potential Winston Churchill


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