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Need advice for how to paint, buff, and polish.

buffing painting polishing

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#1 orangegroves

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 01:18 PM

So I am new to this forum and to painting, buffing, and polishing and could use some help and advice. I am painting something (not a car, but I am using car paint and clear) and figured the general principles would be the same.

I plan on putting a base color down, masking part off and putting a 2nd color down and then clearing.

I have been trying to read up on it and I am getting confused though on when to wet sand and when/how to get a nice glossy finish.

When wet sanding do I sand between base coats or only after clear? Some places say yes and some say no. Does anyone have personal experiences in doing both? What would the difference be between wet sanding vs not wet sanding and using just a buffing/piloshing compound?

When do I use a rubbing compound vs a polishing compound. Do I need to use a form of wax/polish in order to get a nice shine after I use the compound?

The item I am painting is quite small (maybe 6”x4”, front and back) and this would need to be done by hand due to the size and contours. Can I use a rubbing/polishing compound by hand, cause everything I am reading talks about using a buffer/polisher? If I can do this by hand what is some advice on it?

Sorry for so many questions and Thank You in advance.

#2 C. Charles Hahn

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 01:25 PM

What sort of paint system are you using?
Charlie
Automotive Appearance Specialist - Serving Greater Lansing, Michigan
http://www.cchautoappearance.com/

#3 orangegroves

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 01:29 PM

Very basic, I am using Dupli Color paint in a can (I know I know. But being I am new at this I dont want to spend the money on expensive paint/equipment yet until i get better at it) With the Clear Lacquer as my clear coat.

Also this product works for what i need it to do.

#4 C. Charles Hahn

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 01:48 PM

Gotcha. Well generally speaking you will want to only sand your primer before spraying the base coat, and then sand the clear coat after it has dried. Only time you'd sand between coats of base and/or before clear is if you fail to spray the next coat within the specified re-coat window carried by the paint.

That said, if you aren't going to be able to use a machine to polish the part out, I would avoid sanding the clear and just compound and polish it out by hand. You won't completely remove any orange peel that way, but it should still look fine.
Charlie
Automotive Appearance Specialist - Serving Greater Lansing, Michigan
http://www.cchautoappearance.com/

#5 orangegroves

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 02:00 PM

Thank you very much, I am not too concerned about the orange peel effect. For what I am doing I am more looking for the durability of it. Do you have any advice on the compound and polish part? Do I need to apply a lot of pressure or a little? Is it a multi-step process? Finally what is the difference between polishing compound and polish? Is polish more like a wax? Would i even need polish? Or would the polishing compound be enough? I am sorry for my ignorance.

#6 C. Charles Hahn

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 02:13 PM

Thank you very much, I am not too concerned about the orange peel effect. For what I am doing I am more looking for the durability of it. Do you have any advice on the compound and polish part? Do I need to apply a lot of pressure or a little? Is it a multi-step process? Finally what is the difference between polishing compound and polish? Is polish more like a wax? Would i even need polish? Or would the polishing compound be enough? I am sorry for my ignorance.


A compound has more aggressive abrasives in it than a polish, but neither are meant to be a protective coating. If you don't currently have anything to use, I would suggest picking up some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish -- both should be available in any auto parts store locally. You don't have to apply a ton of pressure, just work the product on the finish until you see it breaking down... follow the instructions on the bottle and you'll do just fine.

Don't wax or seal the paint for at least 30 days so it has a chance to cure.
Charlie
Automotive Appearance Specialist - Serving Greater Lansing, Michigan
http://www.cchautoappearance.com/

#7 orangegroves

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Posted 11 May 2011 - 02:22 PM

Awesome, thank you very much.





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