The scratch *might* be able to be repaired with the correct tools and process. Here's a BMW 745Li Sport that I recently did. Had a horrible set of scrapes and gouge (all the way to the plastic base) and it took quite a while to fix.
The rear bumper when I got the car:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...mperScrape.jpg
In process repairing:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...IndoorFlas.jpg
Getting there:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o..._IndoorPic.jpg
Finished:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...erRepaired.jpg http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...per_March0.jpg
Because it's a plastic body panel, care MUST be taken or YOU WILL BURN THE PAINT/PLASTIC QUICKLY. I recommend a rotary with a wool pad (runs cooler than a foam pad) or a polish/glaze foam pad and lots of time. I happened to use a Festool Rotex in rotary mode because it's a smaller machine and more comfortable in tighter areas.
For products: I started out with Optimum Compound and slowly worked that area with the pad. I checked the surface temp of the panel frequently and didn't let it get hot (warm, yes, but not hot). After the small scratches were polished out, I was left with the gouge to fill. I used factory touch-up paint with a reducer added to thin the paint and allow multiple coats. The objective was to bring the touch-up paint to the same level as the OEM finish. I probably put 6-7 applications of paint on that area. Afterwards, I used a polish pad and
Meguiar's #83 to finish out the bumper. The final step was a coat of #26 and the new owner of the car likes the outcome....he saw the process from start-to-finish.
Totoland
Linear Mode
