Chemical oxidation removal??

[Changeling]

In a post on Autopia someone stated that Klasse AIO would help remove oxidation by applying after wash/clay/then the AIO, after that use the polishing product of choice to remove the swirls/scratches/leftover oxidation.
The procedure of putting the Klasse AIO on before polishing would go a long ways towards removing "oxidation". Sounds reasonable since AIO is a chemical cleaner.
Is this procedure what the pros would recommend to treat oxidation/get rid of oxidation.

Before this I thought that the act of polishing the paint with the appropriate polish would solve the oxidation problem, but evidently oxidation is sort of a seperate/combined beast that is a lot harder to get rid of than I thought!!

Products on hand: Sealents- Klasse AIO/SG, Jeffs Werkstaff Prime Strong /Acrylic Trigger.

Polish/compounds = 3M 05937 Machine Glaze, 3M 05933 Rubbing Compound.
Menzerna PO 106FF.

Tools: Porter Cable, 9724, all pads
Cyclo, all pads.
Rotary: Not yet purchased, waiting for "The Edge" connector.

Question: Should I approach the problem of oxidation as above, or what, I am getting a lot of controversal thoughts, so I think what the Pro's use is the information I need. Please don't let the lack of the proper equipment/product sway your reply. Just tell it like you see it. If I need it, I'll get it.
Changeling

[themightytimmah]

Any abrasive polish will knock out oxidation - it's just that AIO removes it cleanly, without any "good" paint loss, whereas an abrasive will take out paint in addition to the oxidation.

Personally, on oxidation jobs, I usually hit the panels with whatever polish I think will do the job, and use AIO by hand on areas the machine can't reach or where I fear the paint is very thin. This is a single stage Miata I did:

On the half and half hood shot, one side has been polished with OP/LC orange/1500rpm. The paint was very soft.



OP/Orange LC/1500
OP + RMG/Black LC/1200
Souveran



I do tailor my aggressiveness to the color (black, red SS are soft, SS white is hard) - e.g. I have a white SS civic coming up soon, and it's going to get a wool pad and OP to start. For black SS cars, I'd go to the opposite extreme, possibly OP/LC Green/1500 to start, and a PC to finish out.

[Changeling]

Timmah thanks for the explanation, now I understand. After polishing to the best of my ability, I'm going to use Werkstatt Prime +, Megs#7, then Chemical Guys 50/50.

If by chance the polishing misses any oxidation the Werkstatt Prime + should catch it.

Thanks, for the help, I like to double check things a lot, and now it is fixed in my grey matter hopefully !!
Changeling

[ZoranC]

Originally Posted by themightytimmah

it's just that AIO removes it cleanly, without any "good" paint loss

themightytimmah, which other products you are aware of that have this same quality?

[themightytimmah]

Originally Posted by ZoranC

themightytimmah, which other products you are aware of that have this same quality?

Poorboy's Pro Polish, Megs MPPC (discontinued I think), the JW Prime series. Pretty much any polish with cleaners but no abrasives.

[ZoranC]

Originally Posted by themightytimmah

Poorboy's Pro Polish, Megs MPPC (discontinued I think), the JW Prime series. Pretty much any polish with cleaners but no abrasives.

Thank you! Poorboy's I don't have, but I do have JW Prime Acrylic. Klasse AIO I don't have but I am thinking about getting it because it would be a quick solution for certain jobs. Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner is discontinued, I am curious to find one just out of curiosity.

So, how one can know which polish has cleaners in it but no abrasives when looking at bottles? I mean, here I am looking at bottle of Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner (or it can be bottle of anything else) and wondering is it satisfying that definition.