Just purchases a Mytee Lite II...any tips for using

[kpagel]

Just to clarify, it wasn't my intention with that last post to put down the Mytee Lite in any way. Its a very capable unit, a friend of mine has it and has absolutely no complaints. I think I provided a little too much info in that last post.

Anyways, to answer your question... if you compare the stats, the HP60 is simply the better machine. It has larger solution and recovery tanks (6 gallon vs. 3 gallon), more water lift (137" vs. 85") and a few other things. The HP60 is considered a mobile unit, but if you're limited in your space, you'll want to go with the Mytee Lite as it is MUCH more compact than the HP60. After doing a lot of research, I was unable to find anyone who was unhappy with either unit.

What ultimately tipped me over to the HP60 was hearing people say things like, "The Mytee Lite was my first extractor, and it has served me well all these years. However, I will be upgrading to the HP60/HP100." I didn't want to get caught possibly wanting to upgrade in a year or two, so went with the best unit that fit my budget, power, and space constraints.

[toyotaguy]

yeah Kpagel sold me on the MLII...reason being is I detail out of my fullsize truck, no trailer, and space is an issue...so I went with the smaller unit...if I had a trailer setup, I would have gotten the HP60 or HP100...

I have used it on a few interiors....NIGHT AND DAY difference over the little bissel machine...cuts down time by 10 times, make less passes, and leaves a cleaner finish....worth every penny!!!

[bdaly84]

Originally Posted by 757motoring

bdaly84 how much did you pay for this unit and where did you purchace it from? Grouse that was some good info when I get mine I will be trying that route

I purchased it from Detail King, Pittsburgh, pa. I have purchased a few things from them and one of the big reasons is that I can have my orders in one-two days, ground ship. I live in MD so UPS has two big hubs one near DK in New Stanton, PA and one here in Hunt Valley, MD. I paid $749.00 + shipping. Again, it may have been alittle more than some other sites, but I dont have to wait a week to get it. I ordered yesterday and should have it today or tomorrow.

[bdaly84]

Originally Posted by kpagel

Just to clarify, it wasn't my intention with that last post to put down the Mytee Lite in any way. Its a very capable unit, a friend of mine has it and has absolutely no complaints. I think I provided a little too much info in that last post.

Anyways, to answer your question... if you compare the stats, the HP60 is simply the better machine. It has larger solution and recovery tanks (6 gallon vs. 3 gallon), more water lift (137" vs. 85") and a few other things. The HP60 is considered a mobile unit, but if you're limited in your space, you'll want to go with the Mytee Lite as it is MUCH more compact than the HP60. After doing a lot of research, I was unable to find anyone who was unhappy with either unit.

What ultimately tipped me over to the HP60 was hearing people say things like, "The Mytee Lite was my first extractor, and it has served me well all these years. However, I will be upgrading to the HP60/HP100." I didn't want to get caught possibly wanting to upgrade in a year or two, so went with the best unit that fit my budget, power, and space constraints.

I did my homework too. When it came down to it, yes the HP60 would have been nice, but I work out of Colorado CC and my space is limited. Hopefully, I wont be one of the ones who's needs to upgrade in a year or keeps saying "I should have gotten the bigger unit".

[WCD]

I never put any chemicals into my extractor. Only the heated water. An extractor rinse should remove all chemical products from the fibers of the interior. My pre extraction process removes stains and so on. About 85% of an interior's junk is removed by the vacuum and is dry soil, or non-oiled dirt. If you don't pre treat the stain properly, an extractor can "set" the stain as water is nature's solvent.
Getting suds in your extractor can damage internal parts. At one time I did put cleaners and defoamers in my machine, but with the better precleaners today, you should be able to dislodge and clean anything and let the extractor just extract.
Heck, with my vapormaster, I'm not using my cleaners nearly as much anyway.

Rob

[Wetwerks]

Originally Posted by WCD

I never put any chemicals into my extractor. Only the heated water. An extractor rinse should remove all chemical products from the fibers of the interior. My pre extraction process removes stains and so on. About 85% of an interior's junk is removed by the vacuum and is dry soil, or non-oiled dirt. If you don't pre treat the stain properly, an extractor can "set" the stain as water is nature's solvent.
Getting suds in your extractor can damage internal parts. At one time I did put cleaners and defoamers in my machine, but with the better precleaners today, you should be able to dislodge and clean anything and let the extractor just extract.
Heck, with my vapormaster, I'm not using my cleaners nearly as much anyway.

Rob

Couldn't have said it better myself!! As for the Vapor Master.... is all I can say about ours!!

[Grouse]

Rinse agents do alot for aiding not only rinsing of the detergents but leaving the fiber softer, with more loft and setting the fiber up for bettery drying. Saying that water will remove all is kind of mis-leading. I have cleaned professionally nearly every kind fo carpet fiber. For 3 years with just water. I then pushed the company to test rinsing agents the difference is significant and cam out to somthing like .004 cents a square foot. I finished out the last 6 years using either or rinse agent or rinse detergent.

Generally rinse agents are a 6-6.5 on the acidic side of the scale, they do an excelent job of removing surfactants (the wetting agents preconditioners leave in carpets, the very things that lead to longer dry times) Left over detergents (detergents left in the carpet will as they dry attract dirt and make a sticky residue.) Many also contain a light softening agent that gives fiber a new look and feel. They also help remove left over emulsified solvents that are common in good preconditioners.

Generally detergents range around 10-13 ph. depending on what kind of detergent or fiber you use. They will leave surfactants, detergents, and solvents. These three things will leave the carpet wetter and more capable of resoiling.

Extraction detergents are generaly a step down from teh above. They most often are granular, and will mix at extremely high ratios. They usually are a 8.5-9 on the ph scale but contain no solvents or surfactants. They generally will remove the two former and set the carpet up for drying.

Water setting a stain is also somewhat misleading. Heat can set a dye stain, Generally wet heat will aid in their removal of most soil stains. Wet heat can set dye stains, but it is not the primary way one should remove dye stains anyway. Dye stains can not in most cases be removed with detergents. They must be removed with process that changes their makeup or oxidizes them. IE red, coffee, natural dyes, urine for oxidizers, Rust, for changing the chemical make up.

As for suds in an extractor. Ith recovery hose goes to a waste tank nothing more. As for a rinse agent going through the solution tank, well why do you think they call it a solution tank. The only issue that might arise is iff you tried to put any kind of solvent, Delimonine is a common cause of this. Solvents will ruin the diaphrams on pumps. Solvents are not rinse agents. Putting an extraction detergent or rinse agent into a solution tank is not going to harm it. Hell my previous boss is still using his original HWE that are 21 years old. Yes they have had new vacuums but the pumps are fine.

[bdaly84]

Originally Posted by Grouse

Rinse agents do alot for aiding not only rinsing of the detergents but leaving the fiber softer, with more loft and setting the fiber up for bettery drying. Saying that water will remove all is kind of mis-leading. I have cleaned professionally nearly every kind fo carpet fiber. For 3 years with just water. I then pushed the company to test rinsing agents the difference is significant and cam out to somthing like .004 cents a square foot. I finished out the last 6 years using either or rinse agent or rinse detergent.

Generally rinse agents are a 6-6.5 on the acidic side of the scale, they do an excelent job of removing surfactants (the wetting agents preconditioners leave in carpets, the very things that lead to longer dry times) Left over detergents (detergents left in the carpet will as they dry attract dirt and make a sticky residue.) Many also contain a light softening agent that gives fiber a new look and feel. They also help remove left over emulsified solvents that are common in good preconditioners.

Generally detergents range around 10-13 ph. depending on what kind of detergent or fiber you use. They will leave surfactants, detergents, and solvents. These three things will leave the carpet wetter and more capable of resoiling.

Extraction detergents are generaly a step down from teh above. They most often are granular, and will mix at extremely high ratios. They usually are a 8.5-9 on the ph scale but contain no solvents or surfactants. They generally will remove the two former and set the carpet up for drying.

Water setting a stain is also somewhat misleading. Heat can set a dye stain, Generally wet heat will aid in their removal of most soil stains. Wet heat can set dye stains, but it is not the primary way one should remove dye stains anyway. Dye stains can not in most cases be removed with detergents. They must be removed with process that changes their makeup or oxidizes them. IE red, coffee, natural dyes, urine for oxidizers, Rust, for changing the chemical make up.

As for suds in an extractor. Ith recovery hose goes to a waste tank nothing more. As for a rinse agent going through the solution tank, well why do you think they call it a solution tank. The only issue that might arise is iff you tried to put any kind of solvent, Delimonine is a common cause of this. Solvents will ruin the diaphrams on pumps. Solvents are not rinse agents. Putting an extraction detergent or rinse agent into a solution tank is not going to harm it. Hell my previous boss is still using his original HWE that are 21 years old. Yes they have had new vacuums but the pumps are fine.

Wow. Thats very interesting Grouse.

Well I got it yesterday and HOLY SH**, what a difference. I did not have much time to play with it, however I did try it on my wifes Trailblazer, in the cargo area. The truck is an 02, which we bought new and doesnt have any stains and its never really dirty in the back, but the suction and heat are 300% better than that Bissell. I dont even have the good chemicals yet, just use a carpet pre-treat I had, and WOW. I just used water in the tank, and the extracted water was black, with sand in it (from the beach last year). Abosolutly amazing. I cant wait to try it on a customer's interior with bad stains.

[Jimmy Buffit]

Interesting and informative thread.

Here's some food for thought: "The water you leave in the carpet is just as dirty as the water you extract." Hmmmm.

I dunno, but I just keep moving forward.

JB

[n2_space]

Good information in this thread! I'm looking at possibly buying one sometime this year.

[757motoring]

Originally Posted by bdaly84

I purchased it from Detail King, Pittsburgh, pa. I have purchased a few things from them and one of the big reasons is that I can have my orders in one-two days, ground ship. I live in MD so UPS has two big hubs one near DK in New Stanton, PA and one here in Hunt Valley, MD. I paid $749.00 + shipping. Again, it may have been alittle more than some other sites, but I dont have to wait a week to get it. I ordered yesterday and should have it today or tomorrow.

Funny I went to there seminar last year and haven't really looked back at there site not to say that the class wasn't informative but when I got back I found this site and many others and found cheaper ways of getting the same product but you live close so its more convenient for you.

Grouse your knowledge on this is great I will be new to this process and will be greatful if you break down how you would go about doing a carpet extraction what products you would use and what chemicals you would put in the extractor if thats what you would do don't know if I read you post right.

[AMDin93103]

Originally Posted by Jimmy Buffit

Interesting and informative thread.

Here's some food for thought: "The water you leave in the carpet is just as dirty as the water you extract." Hmmmm. . . .
JB

Ahh Jimmy, you're such a pessimist. . .

The water I leave in the carpet is just as clean as the water I am extracting.


Nonetheless, informative thread. Thanks for the run-down Grouse. I always appreciate the years of real world experience you bring to this topic. I am very happy with the Bio-Kleen products that I have been using, FWIW. POG, Citri-Solv and Bac-Out play an integral role in my cleaning regiment. I am using the heated 8070 and find that I really have to make sure the water is steaming hot to completely break down the above spotters. This is not such a bad thing as this additional five or so minutes lengthens the chem's dwell-time allowing them to work to their full potential. I can be somewhat impatient at times