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Old 12-08-04, 12:41   #1 (permalink)
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The Color thickness before Polishing by rotary machine




I just got this machine for measuring the thickness of the color.
I dont have a specification of this machine. I tried it with 911 Gt2 for the information of the thickness of his color.

I found that front hood is thicker than other parts of the car.

But I cant measure the modena because the body made from Aluminum. The machine doesnt work!!!.

Well I will measure most of the new car that come to my shop that make me know what is the standard of thickness that the car factory painted.

I just would like to know that who had ever tried this equipment. Please share your experience or your opinion.

I took photos with every part of the GT2 for my information.......

bye guys
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Old 12-08-04, 03:52   #2 (permalink)
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I use a similar machine. The actual measurement is only a baseline from which to start. Most pros agree that removal of more than .3 mil will compromise the clearcoat, and lead to failure, overtime.

Pay particular attention to measuring the SAME SPOT b4 and after buffing. Even a small shift in position can give a .1 difference... and that's the kind of reading that should make you cautious about further buffing.

Get a used panel from a body shop. Measure, buff, measure...

Good Luck!
Love your Shop!

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Old 12-08-04, 08:25   #3 (permalink)
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What do those machines go for?

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Old 12-09-04, 07:28   #4 (permalink)
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~One man’s opinion / observations

Before buffing it’s always a good idea to check the paint film thickness to see how much of the paint film thickness is available, check periodically during the process and on completion to see how much was removed. Take measurements with a paint and coating thickness gauge (Check-Line Model DEF-900 approx. $500)

Paint Film Thickness:
Most modern vehicle paint film systems (paint build) comprise a Primer coat of 2Mils, a Colour coat of 1-2Mils, and Clear coat 2-3Mils thickness. Removing more that 0.3 mil (0.0003") of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure. As a point of reference a sheet of copy paper is 3.5Mil (0.0035")

The clear coat provides protection from a hostile environment and an excellent brilliance, but is easily scratched; once it is compromised repairs involve re-painting, as the base colour has no brilliance, shine or depth, start with the least abrasive product to accomplish desired results, and only if necessary move up to the next grade of abrasive.
~Hope this helps~

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Old 12-10-04, 05:47   #5 (permalink)
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Information source: http://www.checkline.com/coating_thi...ges/dcf900.htm

German and Japanese cars: 4-5 Mils (1 Mil=1000th of an inch)
With the exception of:
Lexus-White and Tan: 5-7 Mils, Lexus- Black and Silver: 4.5-6 Mils
BMW: Silver: 6-7 Mils
FORD: Approx. 5.5-7 Mils
GM Cars and Trucks: Approx. 4.5-6.0 Mils, Jimmys and Blazers: approx 7 Mils
Chrysler: Approx. 5.5-7 Mils (Note Sebring hoods are fiberglass)
Dodge Cars: Similar to Chrysler
Dodge Trucks and newer Ram Pick-ups: Cab approx. Mils and the boxes approx 9 Mils
Jaguar: approx. 6-7.5 Mils (but they tend to vary)
Jeep Grand Cherokee: These read approx. 6-8 Mils, Wranglers: approx. 4.5-5.5 Mils

~Hope this helps~

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Old 12-10-04, 07:29   #6 (permalink)
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Off Topic, but do you know if Jaguar recently changed their paint process?

My 2005 S-Type doesn't seem to have the same high quality paint as my 2002 X-Type.

Thanks


Quote:
Originally posted by TOGWT
Information source: http://www.checkline.com/coating_thi...ges/dcf900.htm


Jaguar: approx. 6-7.5 Mils (but they tend to vary)

~Hope this helps~

 
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Old 12-10-04, 07:56   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by wblynch
Off Topic, but do you know if Jaguar recently changed their paint process?

My 2005 S-Type doesn't seem to have the same high quality paint as my 2002 X-Type.

Thanks
They are made at a different factory.

S-Types are only made at Halewood (Liverpool), Its a old Ford place but (I believe) completely revamped. The S is the only Jag to come out of that plant. They do a nice factory tour (If you can walk 1.5m) but they wont let you in the paint plant.

Not sure were the X-types are bolted togeter.

WD
 
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Old 12-10-04, 09:10   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by WD Pro

Not sure were the X-types are bolted togeter.
Thanks, my X-type was assembled in Coventry. I'm not sure what plant that would be.

The difference in the paint is tremendous. The X-Type was like a hand painted and polished custom car. The S-Type is more like a factory job, looks pretty but lots of orange peel. I figured they are probably cutting costs due to having a woman in charge now. (she probably doesn' t relate to quality paint)

Okay, thanks and I promise no more OT from me on this thread.
 
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Old 07-04-05, 12:39   #9 (permalink)
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just found this thread. do you remember what year the grand cherokee was that had the nice thick paint like that? i need to wetsand the whole jeep to get rid of my factory orange peel. if it doesnt work, i'm going to repaint the whole damn thing.
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Old 07-04-05, 12:48   #10 (permalink)
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I'm assuming that reference to Grand Cherokee paint thickness 5 posts up at least applied to the first year or so it was out. If I had to guess, I'd assume that if the paint thickness changed on that model, it probably came somewhere around the time the corporation became Daimler Chrysler. The paint sure seems awful on Jeep and Chrysler products since. I knew of one Grand Cherokee with clear coat the simply failed on the driver's side fender within months of production and a Sebring Convertible with the worst patch of OP I've ever seen .
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Old 07-04-05, 04:33   #11 (permalink)
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so far the only place my clearcoat has chipped is on the plastic rear bumper where someone bumped the little plastic protrusions that stick out.
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Old 07-06-05, 12:49   #12 (permalink)
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ok, *** is ORANGE PEEL sadjfhsdf i read it everywhere and no one has told me wat it is!!!
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