Avg time range for polishing?

[bert31]

Originally Posted by lecchilo

I don't think you're getting the results you could be getting, thus the difference in "quality"... then again if you're doing a 1-step in 4 hours and getting 70% correction while I'm doing it in 8 hours and getting 80% correction, quality is debatable solely based on the time/money... kinda like you get what you paid for...

I think you make a pretty good point here. After a certain point (let' say 4 hours like you did above), for each additional hour you spend, the results of that hour will continue to deminish. As someone said, here is where knowing what you customers wants (and more importantly, is willing to pay for) is critical.

[David Fermani]

Originally Posted by lecchilo

Iunless the machine you're using shortens the working time of these polishes, which I don't see how it would when it takes longer with a rotary, I don't think you're getting the results you could be getting, thus the difference in "quality"... then again if you're doing a 1-step in 4 hours and getting 70% correction while I'm doing it in 8 hours and getting 80% correction, quality is debatable solely based on the time/money... kinda like you get what you paid for...

If your getting 70% or 80% capability from a product/finish that's able to give you near 100% potential, I'd have to say you might not using the product correctly or not going after the ultimate result. If someone uses 106ff/85rd and it only takes them 1-2 hours to work the entire vehicle, I'd bet anything that they aren't using it properly. Especially if they're using a PC. From some of the videos I've seen here and on the internet, I can see why. If alot of the deminishing abrasive polishes aren't broken down properly, the finish might look good for a little while, but there's a strong change that buffer trails will reappear. There was a recent video of someone using either SIP or 106 and they worked 1/3 of the hood for less than a minute. There's no way that was right.

[lecchilo]

Originally Posted by David Fermani

If your getting 70% or 80% capability from a product/finish that's able to give you near 100% potential, I'd have to say you might not using the product correctly or not going after the ultimate result. If someone uses 106ff/85rd and it only takes them 1-2 hours to work the entire vehicle, I'd bet anything that they aren't using it properly. Especially if they're using a PC. From some of the videos I've seen here and on the internet, I can see why. If alot of the deminishing abrasive polishes aren't broken down properly, the finish might look good for a little while, but there's a strong change that buffer trails will reappear. There was a recent video of someone using either SIP or 106 and they worked 1/3 of the hood for less than a minute. There's no way that was right.

I think you misunderstood me... I was saying from a 1-step, if I break down the polish properly and get 80% correction, yet someone else does it in half the time but gets 65-70% correction, it might be worth, money/time wise, for them to keep doing that if the customer is paying only enough for a 4hr detail... thus they're getting what they paid for and it's still as good as it's going to get with the quick working time...

In short, I'm in agreement with you with the breaking down of polishes, which is my main point above... I agree that there's no way a polish can be broken down that quickly, thus why I criticized, in a way, the person doing a 4hr detail with a DA and 106ff, simply because I feel it's impossible to properly work in the polish, especially, as you said, with a PC or DA, in such short period of time. However, I also stated that quality is subjective here simply because of the time involved, meaning if the guys doing 4.5 hr 1-step details actually worked in the polish for an extra 1-2 hrs over the entire car, quality would go up proportionally to time spent polishing, even with just the 1-step... hope this makes sense

[Scottwax]

Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detail

If there is anyone in NOVA who can get a 2 or 3 step polish done in under 8 hours with 95%+ correction and max gloss, then please PM me. Id love to watch.

Hard paint with Meguiars #105 can be followed with 3M Ultrafina and leave a very high gloss, swirl free finish. The Ultrafina step, going by 3M's directions, goes very quickly.

[David Fermani]

You can probably get by with that combo if you're using a medium/mild foam pad, but I'd be hard pressed to think that if somthing more agressive(like wool) was used Ultrafina wouldn't be able to "fill" the gap. Ultrafina was designed to be used after their swirl remover (step 2 in their 3 step process) was used. Dark finishes look OK(shiny) after that step, but still were prone to swirls. Also 105>UF won't create *max* gloss in comparison to using a polish as an in-between step. I use UF only after I know the finish is 95%(or more) swirl free from another polishing step used prior. Again, there's a decent(sometimes worthwhile) difference between acceptable and possible results. It's all based on what you're after.

[Scottwax]

David-you still have to work within the confines of what the customer is willing to pay for. If they are only willing to pay for two polishing steps, you *may* have to settle for a bit less correction to get a swirl/mar free finish that has a touch less gloss than a three step process. I wish everyone was willing to pay for $500 details but the reality is that most people are really happy with a good $200-300 detail that corrects the paint in the 90% range-to most people, that would be an exceptional finish.

On the white C240 in this thread: 2 C's, do I get a passing grade?

I used #105 and Ultrafina. On the hood, I had to use a white foamed wool pad with #105 but followed it with #105 and a Meguiars 8006 yellow foam pad, which was also enough to remove 95-98% of the defects on the rest of the car. I definitely agree that if you use #105 with wool, you need an intermediate step prior to using Ultrafina. Right with you too on only using UF on only very minor holograms as well.

Anyway, for #105/wool, #105/foam and Ultrafina, I think this is a pretty damn good shine...



I am sure if I used a true intermediate step between #105 and Ultrafina I might have been able to add a bit more gloss but I was operating on a budget set by my customer. I will tell you he was absolutely floored how the car turned out.

[lecchilo]

Originally Posted by Scottwax

David-you still have to work within the confines of what the customer is willing to pay for. If they are only willing to pay for two polishing steps, you *may* have to settle for a bit less correction to get a swirl/mar free finish that has a touch less gloss than a three step process. I wish everyone was willing to pay for $500 details but the reality is that most people are really happy with a good $200-300 detail that corrects the paint in the 90% range-to most people, that would be an exceptional finish.

On the white C240 in this thread: 2 C's, do I get a passing grade?

I used #105 and Ultrafina. On the hood, I had to use a white foamed wool pad with #105 but followed it with #105 and a Meguiars 8006 yellow foam pad, which was also enough to remove 95-98% of the defects on the rest of the car. I definitely agree that if you use #105 with wool, you need an intermediate step prior to using Ultrafina. Right with you too on only using UF on only very minor holograms as well.

Anyway, for #105/wool, #105/foam and Ultrafina, I think this is a pretty damn good shine...



I am sure if I used a true intermediate step between #105 and Ultrafina I might have been able to add a bit more gloss but I was operating on a budget set by my customer. I will tell you he was absolutely floored how the car turned out.

Scott, I'm very curious as to why you didn't go with a different middle polish, something like #83 or 80 with 8006 instead of 105? I'm not doubting what you did as I know you're one of the best here and the car speaks for itself, but I'm curious why 105/8006 was necessary after 105/wool?

[Scottwax]

Originally Posted by lecchilo

Scott, I'm very curious as to why you didn't go with a different middle polish, something like #83 or 80 with 8006 instead of 105? I'm not doubting what you did as I know you're one of the best here and the car speaks for itself, but I'm curious why 105/8006 was necessary after 105/wool?

#105/wool was leaving moderate holograms on the hood and 105/8006 cleaned it up with only very minimal holograms. I didn't see a need to switch to a different polish and pad. #105 leaves a very glossy finish for a heavy compound and on ceramiclear paints, leaves only faint holograms.

[kingdetail34683]

what kind of wax is everybody using a bees wax or a liquid wax. do u leave it on the cars?

[lecchilo]

Scott I understand completely... have you tried M95? While I've had limited experience with 105 (maybe 4-5 hours) I've really come to like M95... you have to work it a bit longer but IMO it produces a better finish than M105 with LC PFW pad...

Originally Posted by kingdetail34683

what kind of wax is everybody using a bees wax or a liquid wax. do u leave it on the cars?

I use wax made of bee honey... I leave it on the car for 10 mins then lick it off cuz it tastes so good

Seriously, I everybody uses a lot of different wax products, from liquid, to solid, to ...

[Scottwax]

Ivan-lately, I've been cutting #105 about 20% with Optimum Polish. Dramatically longer working time with little compromise in cut. I can work a section 2-3 minutes instead of 30 seconds now.

[d00t]

When you guys mix polishes to create longer working time, do you like squirt out so much of each (whatever "dilution" you desire) into a bowl, mix it together, and then slowly dump it in it's own bottle? Just curious on how to go about this. I think I want to do this to a polish like SIP to get a little more working time out of it..