Xpel Application Porsche GT3

Anthony Orosco · 01-30-05, 04:58

Ron (Dent's & Detail's) and I on Saturday did an Xpel (clear bra) install on a 2005 Silver Porsche GT3.

We had previoulsy installed a kit on this clients 2002 Guards Red 911 so when he bought this new beast he wanted it detailed and a full kit installed to protect it also.

We begin the install with a hand wash. Ron rinses and washes the Porsche while I tackle the wheels and tires.

After the washing the car is dried. While Ron uses forced air to dry the car I go around with a WW MF and dry. Because we use RO water we can pretty much let the car air dry but the temps were rather cool and we didn't want any water running out while installing the clear bra.

Next comes a complete wipe down of all the areas where we are going to apply the 3M film. We use a wax remover for this step from Hi-Temp.

Just like car washing, where you start from the top and work your way down, we apply the film from the top and work our way down. Up first are the side view mirrors.

The side view mirror is thoroughly wet down with our slip mixture. The slip mixture allows the film to be easily moved about until the desired position is found. Then we have out "hot" soulution which activates the adhesives on the film to bond with the paint. Here is a picture of Ron getting the side view mirror into position.

The film is "set" or "tacked" by applying the hot solution to an area then using a squeegee, the excess moisture is driven from underneath the film. This of course sounds easy in explanation but to actually perform it is a whole different story

Not to mention that much of the film must be literally strectched to fit or better, "conform", to the areas curves and lines.

After the side view mirrors comes the hood piece. This is a singal piece of film that covers the width of the Porsche front deck lid and goes up 24in. This is the easiest piece to apply. Spray the slip solution, tack the middle, squeegee out the excess moisture and pray you have no debris trapped underneath!

Now comes the front fender pieces (no pics of that) and then headlights. Since there is a slight kit modification for this year GT from the previous ones we don't yet have a template for them so we have to install them at a later date.

Now comes the headache.....the bumper kit, which is a single piece of film that is a bear to deal with, even for two people, let alone one! We apply the slip solution, tack one edge (temporarily) and unroll the kit onto the bumper. After aligning the kit we CAREFULLY tack the center and begin to stretch the kit.

After some chaotic moments, a few tantrums and some curse words, the bumper kit is finished! Now all that's left is cleaning up some stubborn edges that refuse to lay down. This is done with various tools, like a hair dryer, steamer and here, compressed air. This drives out moisture which allows the adhesive to bond.

And now the finished product

We did not detail the car this day but will return in a few days to check the kit out and then give it a full detail. We did though wipe the car down with Optimum before we left.

Thanks for reading,
Anthony

White95Max · 01-30-05, 05:05

What an awesome car!

Did you install the clear bra over the hood emblem or do you remove that first and reinstall over the clear bra?

SilvaBimma · 01-30-05, 05:05

Sweet detail! Did you wax beneath or on top of the XPEL areas? No rear quarters or side areas? Would you say this is an easier install than 3M ClearGuard?

1SLOW50 · 01-30-05, 05:07

Gorgeous work...and a gorgeous car.

Prometheus · 01-30-05, 05:09

Just out of curiosity, how do you care for the clear bra? Can you just wax it like the rest of the car, need to use plastic polish (ie plexus) on it? Just wondering how you would care for it...

gav'spurplez · 01-30-05, 05:14

wow, awesome car and nice install.

from the pictures it does not look all that noticeable, and especially on silver. how noticeable is it and how much did it cost ??

do you have to cut the "bra material" to fit around bends and stuff or do they sell it "shaped" already for specific cars

Anthony Orosco · 01-30-05, 05:16

Hey all....since you all ask the same general question I'll do my best to give a general reply

Yes we always remove the emblems. This is far easier to do than to try and adjust a cut around emblems. It just looks cleaner also in the final outcome.

We do not wax underneath the film as the film would then not bond to the paint. We do though polish these areas to remove any swirls and scratches.

The 3M film has a clear coat on it so it can be cared for in the sme manner as your paint. I have used my Cyclo and Menzera IP and FP to polish out surface scratches, then wax the film with either FMJ, Trade Secret or as in the case of this install, OCW.

Plexus can also be used.

Hope that answers the questions, if not please ask away and thanks for the compliments.

Anhtony

RedondoV6 · 01-30-05, 07:41

Anthony,

I see you mention slip solution, but did you use a weak IPA solution to tack down the edges and speed up the drying time? I know this is not advised with some PPF's but I think it's OK with 3M PPF.

For anyone who is interested in trying this, it is a LOT easier with two people, even the best kits require stretching and working over curved panels. I have applied them alone but it can be a real PITA. Also IMHO the 3M film is more difficult to apply than the Ventureshield or Llumar PPF's.

Check out Tintdude for more on PPF's and thank you Anthony for such a great review!

MongooseGA · 01-30-05, 07:54

How thick is it? The reason I ask is, if you're polsihing the upper half of the hood (toward the glass) and make the transition onto the clear bra, will the machine do anything to it? Like it might to thick vinyl decals?

seracis · 01-30-05, 08:30

As long as you stay parallel to the edge of the PPF it will be fine. I've used Llumar PPF for a couple years, as well as a few other kits from other manufacturers. As for a slip solution, I use Slip-Up (a window tint slip solution) or simply Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo mixed with water. After the PPF is in position, I use another squirt bottle with about 1 part 91% alcohol to 3 parts slip solution/water. I never thought of using compressed air. I usually end up using the alcohol based mix to rinse the other mixture away, work awhile on the rest of the car, then come back to lay it all down and do the final cut. The only place this is a pain is when wrapping the edges. I'll have to try the air.

Anthony Orosco · 01-30-05, 08:58

Quote:

Originally posted by RedondoV6
Anthony,

I see you mention slip solution, but did you use a weak IPA solution to tack down the edges and speed up the drying time? I know this is not advised with some PPF's but I think it's OK with 3M PPF.

For anyone who is interested in trying this, it is a LOT easier with two people, even the best kits require stretching and working over curved panels. I have applied them alone but it can be a real PITA. Also IMHO the 3M film is more difficult to apply than the Ventureshield or Llumar PPF's.

Check out Tintdude for more on PPF's and thank you Anthony for such a great review!

Well most of this was answered by "seracis", which I thank him for

The slip solution is basically J&J shampoo, about 6 drops per 32oz of water.

The slip solution should be slightly foamy as it is sprayed out. Too much soap in your slip and you will have problems rinsing away all the soap. Too little and the film will drag.

Also it is best to use tap water in your mixture as treated water, like soft water or RO water can make the slip too slippery. I guess you could cut back on the soap but we have it down now so why mess with it, eh?

Just about all films can be a pain to apply. Porsche kits are almost always a "5" out of 5 in difficulty rating, 5 being the most difficult. Remember that you are messing with physics in that you are trying to take a flat film and bending it to conform to round surfaces. Ron and I visit the Tintdude forum often, great site.

The HOT solution is an IPA mixture, I use 91%. An "eye" measured amount mixed in with about 30oz of water. We try and use the HOT toonly tack down anchor points. Other than that we try and use the slip solution to activate the adhesive then squeegee out as much as possible. Less chance of "ghosting" when using this method.

Thanks,
Anthony

Anthony Orosco · 01-30-05, 09:03

Quote:

Originally posted by MongooseGA
How thick is it? The reason I ask is, if you're polsihing the upper half of the hood (toward the glass) and make the transition onto the clear bra, will the machine do anything to it? Like it might to thick vinyl decals?

I polish the paint and the clear bra in two seperate stages. I tape the edge of, partly on the film and partly on the paint. I then run my polisher, if it needs a polisher, just along the tapes edge first on the paint and then after I have that all done I do the clear bra.

I try not to run the polisher, or any pad, from the paint up and over the films edge.

If wax or dirt gets into the edge you can use a Qtip with some cleaner to clean it out. I usually get it all cleaned up with some QD.

SERACIS

An air compressor works great at blowing out excess moisture. You know when you are cleaning up an area and water is forced back into the film because of gravity? Well if you can you squeegee then as you come close to the edge hit it with the compressed air. Tacks down nicely. Maybe a paper towel will be needed to blot up some left over excess.

Adios,
Anthony