:2thumbs: 300c Hemi Refinement Treatment Barry Theal Presidential Details

bufferbarry · 08-21-09, 08:38

I was contacted by this customer about a few concerns with his 2007 Chrysler 300C. During the conversation he said that his wife uses this car as a daily driver. He mentioned that from day one something about the paint just didn’t look right. After listening to him I came to the conclusion that the car was compounded prior to there purchase. After about 2 years of ownership he was ready to trade the vehicle in. He mentioned to me that his wife and himself loved everything about the vehicle, but when the car gets washed at cloister (a very big local tunnel car wash and lube.) it looked worse. He was referred to me by a former client who said to him “ if your looking for the best detailer in Pennsylvania you need to contact Barry Theal at Presidential Details ” which is me. I was laughing when he told me this, because I try to stay humble. When someone says something about my work like this I’ll admit if feels pretty good, yet at the same time its hard because now I have to live up to it. The owner was pretty honest to me about the cars condition. He mentioned it’s a daily driver and its dirty and can use a good cleaning. After discussing several options we weren’t sure what to go with so he told me just do what it takes to make perfect! I love when I get to control what goes into the detail and money isn’t an option. While the owner was out on vacation to Atlantic City he was kind enough to leave me the car for a week. What a great guy to leave me a Chrysler 300C Hemi. Upon Arrival I could immediately see this car was driven. The motor was filthy, The interior wasn’t the cleanest, and the paint suffered from some decent rids in several places. The wheels were extremely faded and the car was loaded with silicone everywhere. You could see it shinning in the dirt. I knew I was up for a great challenge. Here are some pictures at arrival.

bufferbarry · 08-21-09, 08:44

As you can see it was gonna need a major decontamination off all aspects to get this clean. Once I pulled the car in First thing is I always wet the entire car first with water. This will allow for any chemical that may be over sprayed onto the paint to loose some of its effect. Once sprayed down I started with the motor first and began to pressure wash it with just water to remove any loose dirt. This will remove any loose debris and allow for the degreaser to actually attack the grease build up and not just the surface layer of dirt over everything. Once the surface dirt was washed away I used Ardex New Wave Degreaser diluted 4 to 1 and began to soak it down. The using various brushes, I agitated everything to a foaming lather then rinsed down. The engines plastic cover was removed to access all the motors parts. Once the motor was Degreased I proceeded to do the door jams and the deck lid jam the with the same dilution as the motor 4 to 1 and several brushes were used to agitate all the loose dirt and grease. Then everything was rinsed out. Once all of the Jams and motor was degreased it was time to turn to the exterior decontamination. I went right to the wheels and did a complete dismount of all four wheels. This is nice because not only does it make it easier to clean the inside wheels, But it insures that you can toughly clean all suspension parts and inner wheel areas. I’ve always been taught it the little things that create a big picture in this business. All tires were cleaned with Ardex New Wave Diluted 10 to 1 and all Wheels were cleaned and with Ardex Impact wheel cleaner. Again various brushes were used. While I had the Back side of the car hoisted I thought it would be a good time to clean the Rear end Undercarriage. Lots of aluminum under this baby, So I used a Cleaner designed for aluminum, although very strong its very effective! Now at this point I had all wheels, tires, jams, and motor degreased and decontaminated. So now I moved to the paint process. For me this is a very matriculate process. I’m a firm believer that to provide the best polishing process you need to start with a good foundation. Kinda like a tree growing leaves. If the base a planted just right it won’t grow into its natural beauty. It all begins here. The Paint was rinsed with Degreaser 50/50 and let soak. This will strip any wax and also give the paint a good clean feel. Once rinsed, and lathered to remove all loose debris from the paint. I began to inspect the paint with a rubber glove on my hand. I ran it across the paint to feel form any embedded fallout. Boy this this was rough. It felt like a day at the beach imbedded into the paints top surface layer. A good thorough clay bar treatment was needed. I used claymore aggressive clay for the cleaning. This really made exfoliated everything from the clear coat a created a nice smooth clean feel to the paint. A final rinse down was performed. Here are a few pictures of the Decontamination process.

At this point once the car is clean and decontaminated I do a thorough paint inspection. Usually I will use a 3m sun gun and a few other light sources to examine the paint, but today the all mighty heavens broadcasted down a brilliant sunny day for me so I moved the car out back and checked it out. Wow was I shocked underneath all that dirt al filth was a hologram city filled with car wash swirls, it was pretty bad. So here are a few shots. Look at some of these Signature marks the last detailer left me! What an impression he made lol.

bufferbarry · 08-21-09, 08:50

After doing a test spot I went with Ardex 1500 On a Dewalt rotary and a megiuars Maroon wool pad. I have been messing with a technique for a while now often not practiced here on the Forums from what I understand or to my knowledge. It has no name as far as I know so I’ll call it the Barry Theal Method lmao What I do is I’ll mist the pad with a shot of water for a primer. Then I’ll lay my normal six inch bead down the paint. Before I begin to spread the product in a 2*2 area cross hatching with my pad. I misted the panel with water while the bead of compound was still down untouched. Next I ran the dewalt at no constant speed. The Dewalt rotary runs from 1000 rpms to 3000 rpms So I feathered the trigger softly and spread the compound very slowly to prevent sling. Once the compound was spread I bumped my speed to about 1400 and worked the product to a flash. Once the product flashed I Misted the flashed area of the compound. Once a product flashes The abbrasives are broken down, except when using products with non diminishing abrasives like m105/m205 Now the water will loosen any remaining pcompound and create a compound with no abbraisves hence a polish. In theory I’m thinking this works like a claybar. With a good lube in between the clay and paint the claybar doesn’t mar the finish . Same conecpt with a liquid abbraisve as compared to a thicker one the wool is less likely gonna mar the finish. If you understand any of this I’ll be impressed lol as I’m not best typer. But this left a finish that was level and very easy to refine. So once the paint was level I refined using Ardex 1500 on a 60 ppi foam pad 6 inch and a Dewalt rotary. This Paint at this point was amazing< no Holograms, or Swirls. Just a nice clean corrected paint. Ipa wipedowns consisting of 70% were used after each panel of compounding and polishing. Here are a few pics. Nothing crazy.

Once all the compounding and polishing was complete I rinsed the car down to remove al dusting and brought it back up to for the jewelling process. Now Here is where it got fun, I used a sample of a new polish designed just for this from a supplier. Now being a tester I thought I had to be give the product a true chance. So I stuck with a conventional method of jewelling and tried to bring the finish to a gloss so high even a good buddy of mine would be proud of me! Thanks for the teachings bro. I do listen and I’m catching up! You know who you are! Lmao So here are a few shots of the car jeweled!

Once the car was jeweled I gave it a complete wipe down of ipa at 70% . I think I did this like four times to ensure all carrier oils were remove. Many people make the mistake of jewelling a car then waxing over it because they think it really looks awesome and there afraid that they will loose the gloss by removing the polish during the jewelling phase with a ipa wipedown. What happens is if the carrier oils aren’t removed they will create the halo affect and make it look like You improperly buffed the car. When really its just carrier oils from the polish. To make a long story short at this point John my part time guy went over the interior as I began to polish all the chrome by hand. Then I called it a night. John finished the interior and I gave it a good Zaino treatment. And Kaboom we had this when it was all said and done!

Here are a few finished motor shots.

dsms · 08-21-09, 08:51

Your a freak Barry, top job again!

bufferbarry · 08-21-09, 08:52

Now John Did all the interior work! Thanks John You’re the man Here are a few pics! Also keep in mind here When it comes to interiors at my shop. Im anal about NOT dressing interiors. I think it’s a waste of time and money. Interiors should be clean not siliconed. John hates me for it, but I feel this is important.

bufferbarry · 08-21-09, 08:55

Anyway if you made it this far please enjoy the many shots of the out side! I been playing with this new camera and I couldn’t decided which pictures to I gave them all to ya lol! Enjoy

bufferbarry · 08-21-09, 08:58

And a few more!!!

Guys thanks for looking at all my pics and hopefully you enjoyed my thread. You guys teach me so much I’m blessed to know all of you and to have found the forum.

Barry

HookEmHorns · 08-21-09, 10:08

Great looking car Barry! Great job! I love those hemi's, it's a shame that it got to be that dirty.

What did you use to dress the plastic and stuff under the hood? That looks better than when it was at the dealership!