Hi all! This is the 2nd rosso fuoco I've done now and well, I can't say it was as bad as the last one, but I will say that if they tried to give it to me in its previous condition I'd stick my foot so far up their a$$es they'd be screaming "Nike" every time they opened their mouths. It was full of the usual swirly monsters, deep scratches, sanding marks, some drips (though not too many on this one) and so on. My camera took a poo on me this week (but after a good whacking started working again... sometimes ya gotta just hit stuff to make it work) so the service guy took some befores for me... won't make that mistake again. In other words the ones he took came out worse than the paint job itself. Then again, those of you who've read my posts before (cheers!) probably don't need pictures to convince you that no Ferrari comes out of the factory without the factory installed "scratch n' swirl surprise" package, especially the Calis, Scagliettis and Fioranos.
So this was a 2-stepper (in most places, like the trunk, doors and parts of the bonnet) going from a
wool cutting pad straight to a finishing pad and I'll explain how I did it later. Here's the befores:
Some gratuitous car porn to start with
. I don't think I'll be operating on this one, but sure wouldn't mind...
Some RDS...
Some "clap"...
And an overdose of swirls...
More scratches...
On to the polishing. So after Flexcalibur and I Rambo'd the door with a Scholl wool pad and Scholl S17 to remove all the scratches, I went with a finishing pad and Scholl S03+ (fan-friggin'-tastic polish this is!!). Now if you have to use a wool pad on most cars to remove the scratches you're going to be left with (in most cases) some ugly holograms. After that it usually takes 2 sometimes even 3 steps to clear those up, especially if it's a ceramic finish like this one. Here's how I did it in 1 step with a %100 hologram-free finish.
After spreading the S03+ at 600 RPM I bumped it up to about 1,500-1,800 and worked in the polish (S03+ has a pretty good working time) with a pretty good amount of pressure (this will vary depending on the paint type). After I saw that the polish was starting to flash (you can see it turn from a milky color to almost clear) I stopped to clean the pad.
What the polish looked like just after being spread at 600
This is what it looked like when I stopped, but it wasn't broken down well enough and you'll see why in the next pics.
Before cleaning the pad
After cleaning. Notice that there's still polish inside the pad. This means it's still got some medium cutting power. So, I went back for a few more passes.
After a few more passes the polish was broken down properly and after cleaning the pad it looked like this:
Now after you've cleaned the pad, you have to resume polishing at the same speed and pressure that you used before you cleaned it. Once you've made a couple of passes like that you can start to work your way down to the jeweling process.
Here's what the polish looks like after being broken down properly:
And here's what it looks like after being completely broken down and after numerous passes in the jeweling process:
And here's what the Crime Light has to say about the whole process:
Jesse wins, flawless victory! So far I've only tested this method with Scholl polishes, but I'm pretty sure it will work with other diminishing polishes, as well.
Here's some after shots in the sun before Migliore Primo.
This color is just fantastic!
Some after Primo shots inside... topless
Thanks for reading and to all the Playboy subscribers, thanks for "reading"!
- Jesse
! Replied on your Pozzi post about the cracktory. Let's not forget though, grappa-filled humans operate it... 
but my shipment (222 kilos) should be in next week I hope! 
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