dsms detail - Porsche Turbo S full correction

dsms · 06-16-09, 05:59

2005 atlas gray Turbo S booked for a 2 day full paint correction detail

The car is kept very clean, first thing I noticed was the lack of brake dust on the wheels. Even still a full cleaning had to be done to ensure everything was up to the standard.

Gloss it wheel gel was used at 5:1

Yep even at 5:1 you still get solid cleaning ability. Me working the daytona brush on the inner barrels. This car had the porsche factory carbon ceramic brake kit as well.

Some brake dust settled in the calipers, after a little agitation with the SV brush and wheel gel it lifted very easily.

The inner barrels had some tar deposits which were lifted using AS tardis. The tires were cleaned with ARO at full strength to remove the old tire dressing which was fairly thick. After that didnt remove it all i followed up with tarminator and scrubbed for a minute or so and the tires finally came clean.

Tardis doin' work...

After the wheels the wash process began. The paint was pre reinsed at medium presure to remove as much surface dirt as possible, a lot of people like to quickly rinse and then foam but I like to rinse at pressure for a long time before foaming

Foamed with the camspray at CG maxi suds mixed with CG citrus wash clear

After 5 minutes or so, one last rinse of the foam and then the 2 bucket wash. The car was wearing some sort of protection (spray wax) so again CG citrus wash clear was used to help remove it.

Before the 2 bucket wash all the crevices and emblems were agitated with APC 10:1. Trying to fully clean these areas after the car is dry is very difficult without marring the finish badly.

The engine was lightly cleaned using DI water in a pressurized sprayer, not a pressure washer. P-car engines have a lot of exposed wiring, intake etc so I'd rather not drench everything with water.

Before the final rinse I cleaned the ragtop with, uh... Raggtop:thumb: and a SV brush

Before the rain came I pulled the car inside for claying. A very mild clay was needed for this one, Sonus fine green worked well using ONR 6:1 as lubrication

After 1/4 of the car

After claying I did 2 IPA wipedowns to prep the paint for polishing, just in case the citrus wash clear did not remove all the old wax protection. The I took my paint readings, a little inconsistent for a Porsche but nothing too bad

Just to show you the difference bewteen paint thickness and clearbra thickness...

Paint

Clearbra

All trim areas were then taped off

After a test spot I landed on a solid two step combo. The paint (as expected) was very sticky. First thing I grabbed for were my Gloss-It polishes and the Flex 3403... on the last 5 sticky paint porsches I have worked on the Gloss-it polishes have never failed me. I normally prefer to use the rotary but I was able to correct even the deeper defects on this one with the 3403 and a cutting pad, the rotary however was used for the finishing/jeweling stage in conjunction with EVP.

-Gloss-It Extreme cut w/ GI white fast cut foam pad (flex random)
-Gloss-It Evolution polish w/ DD blue finishing pad using Gloss-It EVP (makita/flex rotary)

The hood under halogens, not much fine swirling but a lot of RID clusters

The hood required 2 hits with the extreme cut to remove all the defects

Before

After

Closer up

The entire front nose was protected with a clear bra. I started out with a very gentle polish and pad and moved up in aggressiveness as I found the deeper scratches were not being removed.

Here, using the makita, DD green med. polishing pad and evolution cut w/ a little extra GI EVP to keep the heat way down on the clear bra

Clear bra after polishing

Moving around the rest of the car, front fender before correction

After 2 hits with GI extreme cut

50/50

And after jeweling...

The area by the convertible top had some more severe defects, I immediately broke out the Flex rotary and 3" GI BP... the flex 3401 would not have fit in this area at all

dsms · 06-16-09, 06:01

rear wing/convertible area was also in bad shape, this required 2 hits with M105 (DA version on the rotary), followed by evolution cut, followed by evolution polish to fully correct

Before (taken with a point and shoot)

After

The final stage of jeweling helped refine out the last bit of fine holograms and bring up the gloss and calrity

Working the evo polish w/ the makita and GI EVP at 1500rpm before refining the finish at around 1000 for a few minutes

End result, captured with a proper camera this time

The taillights were corrected with Menzerna powerfinish ... before

After correction

Working the rear bumper with a GI cutting pad, 3" BP and extreme cut

After finishing

Worked my way around the rest of the car, back to the flex random machine for the larger flat areas

a 50/50, no more haziness

finished, under standing halogen and straight camera flash

Some jeweling shots...

I finished all the correction work around 9:30pm on day 1, I wanted to leave the finishing stage for the next morning but had a feeling I would need the time to work on other areas.

I made the choice to stay in the garage for a little longer to at least get a START on the finishing polish stage... I ended up jeweling the entire car that night, I hate leaving a half polished car for the next morning. I finished up a little after 2am

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Before I went to bed I snapped 2 shots after everything had been finished down a jewled, pics taken after IPA wipedown

And one under my little light of truth, Fenix TK10

Start of day 2, even with the correction done there was still a lot of work ahead of me.

The ragtop store area needed a good vaccum, I started with the shop vac but couldnt get the hose all the way in where I needed without touching the paint in some way so I used the "household" solution...

dsms · 06-16-09, 06:03

dust buster to the rescue

All the jambs were cleaned with APC 20:1, you dont really need a strong degreaser for unexposed jambs such as this. More water with a little cleaning agent works just fine

The engine was already pre-cleaned during the wash process, now just some touch up work. The entire engine was cleaned here with P & S express interior cleaner, leaves a very matte finish on plastics (and in this case intake hoses). Best part is that its 100% biodegradable too!

After

All exterior plastic and rubber trim was first cleaned with IPA and then dressed with Gloss It TRV using a foam painters brush. The reason I laid down tape under the rubber window trim is so that no dressing gets on the paint

The cargo area was cleaned using the P & S express interior cleaner, APC 20:1 on the jambs and Folex on the carpets. All personal belongings were organized (some items were bagged in a ziploc) and all clothing was folded

The tires were treated with 2 coats of Gloss It signature tire dressing. This is by far the best tire dressing I have used. I have found (and Clark will agree with me) that if you leave on a coat of the dressing to soak into the rubber for about 10minutes BEFORE massaging it in that it makes a big difference in how it looks and lasts. I was able to get a very deep satin look on the tires which is just what I like as high shine never did anything for me.

The wheels were hand polished with JW acrylic prime and sealed with Rejex sealant

The leather was cleaned with Gloss it stain leather cleaner and then conditioned with the satin leather polish. Both left a nice matte finish and softened up the leather quite a bit after application.

The dash, plastic pieces, center console and gauges were cleaned with the P & S express interior cleaner as well.

Carpets were cleaned using folex and vacuumed out with a shop vac until dry

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The door jambs were cleaned with APC 20:1 and then wiped down with Gloss Enhancer QD for a bot of gloss and protection

The Turbo plastic door sills were treated with the Gloss It TRV dressing too

With the interior and all trim all finished I moved onto applying the LSP

Fist was 1 coat of Gloss It signature sealant applied by DA with a 100ppi pad at speed 3, I moved the top back to get to this area again so I wouldnt scratch the paint at all with a power cord or my leaning on it. Not often can you get a panel to come to "you" when you cant get to "it"

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The signature gloss was left to cure for 1 hour before buffing off

Next up was 2 coats of the Gloss It concourso gloss, this was done by hand

dsms · 06-16-09, 06:04

The sun was starting to go behind the clouds so i pulled the porsche out to get as many sun pics as possible, please note the glass has not be cleaned yet at this point.

Whenever the sun is around after a correction detail I take as many pics as I can in the direct light, I consider the sun the final "light of truth"

For the finishing tocuhes such as glass dusting the rag top I pulled the Turbo back inside

Last shots before it was taken back...

Speedart exhaust after polishing

Thanks for looking

TroyGLI · 06-16-09, 06:19

Incredible detail, that thing looks beautiful.

ajnavo61490 · 06-16-09, 06:30

wow nice work on one badass Porsche!

looks like the owner has a few more toys to play with

bufferbarry · 06-16-09, 06:32

There is only one thing to say here FTMFW. There is no way to hide a perfectly corrected car in the sunlight. Take notes guys. This is how its done! PERFECT. Great write up, Great detail. I think I need to look more into this gloss it stuff.

David very nice.

Bigpoppa3346 · 06-16-09, 06:37

Lookin' good!

What do you think of the Daytona Speedmaster Brush? Really any better than the EZ Brush or just Autogeeks marketing hard at work?

boostwagon · 06-16-09, 08:49

great details as always. i wish i had the high rate of clientele getting the kind of details you always get to do.

TSC17 · 06-17-09, 04:50

Very nice indeed David! Your passion for perfection shows in the work, the photos, and the great write up. Thank you for sharing! You know me...I like a lot of great photography and writing.

Pats300zx · 06-17-09, 05:50

Fantastic work David. Great writeup as well.

SCoach · 06-17-09, 06:29

I was told not to polish on the clearbra, so I left it alone on the Porsche I did... Great job one the car!