Buying a Suit

[pt91]

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Gotta admit I just love going through fabric swatches. And yeah, finding a good tailor is just *so* important. My best guy retired a loong while back and I still miss him. My current fave is a fairly young eastern European woman who's almost as good, and yeah, I initially had agist/sexist reservations.

But I really wear sport coats and blazers more often than I wear suits these days. [Heck], I probably wear tuxedos more often than I wear suits...for me, in my area, a suit is more or less a business uniform (and I'm retired). Other than marryin'-and-buryin' there just aren't all that many occasions where it's the only appropriate choice. And IMO at resorts/etc. (and even some restaurants) it can be a downright *inappropriate* choice.

Heh heh, I do like my black suits, but I sometimes think I look like a well-tailored version of somebody from a Tarentino movie in 'em.

When it comes to the durability of quality clothes, I'm reminded of a line I heard a long time ago- when asked where he buys his suits a guy said "I don't buy suits, I *have* suits".

Anybody else here have a thing for functional/"surgeon's" cuffs on their jackets? I simply love 'em (form follows function). I have an equally strong *aversion* to people who leave one button undone so everybody sees they're functional

real, hand bound button holes on jackets are so rare today. a dead give away for a well tailored jacket. i toured brooks brothers in the 80s while in school and watched a dozen women binding button holes around a big table. they could do it without looking.

[DavidB]

Originally Posted by pt91

real, hand bound button holes on jackets are so rare today. a dead give away for a well tailored jacket. i toured brooks brothers in the 80s while in school and watched a dozen women binding button holes around a big table. they could do it without looking.

I'd say fine details in general are hard to find until you get into a suit costing $1,200 or more. Hand stitched lapel, hand bound button holes, a beautiful (fully sewn lining... especially on the trousers) are all nice touches in a good suit.

[bert31]

Originally Posted by DavidB

I'd say fine details in general are hard to find until you get into a suit costing $1,200 or more. Hand stitched lapel, hand bound button holes, a beautiful (fully sewn lining... especially on the trousers) are all nice touches in a good suit.

I would say a Hartz Schaffner Marx suit is about as close to those characteristics as you can get and not pay a fortune for a suit. I have two Hartz Schaffner's and got them at a much lower than usual cost mostly because I bought them at the end of the fashion season and they had been discounted twice.

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by bert31

I would say a Hartz Schaffner Marx suit is about as close to those characteristics as you can get and not pay a fortune for a suit..

Back when I bought off-the-rack, their Gold and Silver Trumpeter lines were very nice. They also used to have a semi-custom line, o-t-r but made out of nicer than normal fabrics. Yeah, HSM suits are a good buy and feature great quality.

The guy I gave my o-t-r stuff to is *still* wearing some of the suits and jackets; they're holding up great even though none is newer than the early '90s! You get your money's worth with HSM.

[JasonC8301]

I got my two suits in earlier this week and fit and finish are ok by my standards. Not the best but not bad. The only issue I have had with these suits was the pants hem. I took them to my tailor and he fixed them (had to lower the back of the pants an inch and 1/2 inch in the front.)

Anyway here is one of the suits/shirts. I am not sure what exactely I should take pictures of so I just put some together in MS paint.

The jacket outside


The jacket inside



The jacket button holes and buttons (outside and inside)


The pants inside



The shirt with initials on left sleeve


Contact label information


I'll get a picture by next Tuesday (Veterans Day) showing the fit and finish of the suit. I personally think it fits fine (as well as my tailor) but I am always open to comments by forum members, especially Accumulator, haha. Then again I am not trying to hide a big belly as most people I saw at Macy's were trying to do (was buying a pair of shoes while I saw a few guys getting fitted.) One of the reasons why I went with a tailored suits is because most off the rack suits don't supply a 42" chest on the jacket and ~29" waist on the pants.

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by JasonC8301

I got my two suits in earlier this week and fit and finish are ok by my standards. Not the best but not bad. ..I am always open to comments by forum members, especially Accumulator, haha..

I'll be perfectly honest and admit that I can't really evaluate a suit over the internet, and I *really* have to be there to evaluate a fabric. They look fine, there's nothing that jumps out and makes me think "uh-oh..", that's for sure.

If *YOU* like the suits, and they fit right, then they're good. Simple as that. The sort of little details that you can pick apart with a meticulous/detailed inspection, the stuff that separates an affordable suit from a "buy-a-used-car price" one won't show in real life anyhow. See how well they take/keep a pressing, that'll be a clue as to their quality (good stuff doesn't need pressed as often to keep looking crisp) and you'll get a feel for what kind of lifespan they'll give you.

Too bad DFTowel isn't posting here these days, he'd be a perfect guy to ask..he knows a zillion times more than I do about this stuff.

Glad to see you went with a straight collar instead of the button-down that so many people wear with suits these days.

The *only* thing I'd consider doing differently next time is matching the shirt's pocket shape with the cuff treatment; it looks like you have an angled pocket bottom and rounded cuff corners. Trust me, nobody but a dress-shirt-snob like me would *EVER* notice that

Yeah, with your (or my ) build, having the suits and shirts made is really the only way to go. I've had O-T-R stuff altered, and it turns out OK if the tailor is very good, but you're doing it *right*.

I think you did *VERY* well. A whole lot better than *I* did at your age. Heh heh, I see pics of myself in suits at that point in my life and I just cringe But you'll see pics of yourself in twenty years and *you* are gonna think "hey, I was dressing really well, even back then..". Good job

[JasonC8301]

Thank you for the thorough reply Accumulator!

I was looking for the obvious "***" happened here type of reply, but don't think any major things jump out.

I remember being asked that question, button down color or plain? I said absolutely no button, lol. then I just left the spread to the tailor and it turned out ok.

Thats what I am looking for, the details! I didn't even notice that with the rounded cuffs and angled pocket. I did notice the top of the sleeve cuff button (uhm, there is one button to keep the cuff on and another rigth above that traveling up the forearm, that is angled at least, lol.) I'll keep this in mind once I order more stuff from this fashion house.

I'll get a picture taken tomorrow morning with the suit on and show you how it fits overall. I know its not like seeing it person but it will have to do.

Thanks again for the feedback!

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by JasonC8301

I remember being asked .. button down color or plain? I said absolutely no button, lol. then I just left the spread to the tailor and it turned out ok..

We've had a few discussions about collars here and it seems like a regional thing. Some people (IIRC Mr. Clean, down in Texas) find button-down collars perfectly acceptable for wear with suits.

I'm very old-fashioned about this (my mother once explained to me that button-down collars were the original "polo shirt" and are thus a for business wear) and so is my shirtmaker (who won't *make* a button-down). I think your locale will lean the same way. Better to look a little "stuffy"/formal in your case anyhow, at least IMO..

I'll get a picture taken tomorrow morning with the suit on and show you how it fits overall. I know its not like seeing it person but it will have to do.

If you can, get a profile pic taken so I can see how it looks from the side. I suspect you still have your military posture, and that'll help with how *anything* looks on you

Are you gonna CCW in that suit? If so, what position? I'd have to get an all-new wardrobe if I were gonna carry anything much bigger than a bikini-piece

[JasonC8301]

I tried to get a profile picture now at home (should have thought about it while at the range this morning) but no one in my house can take pictures that are worth a darn.

I got a front one this morning and picture taker was a little off to the side so one shoulder looks higher than the other (and I didn't make sure everything was in place because well, I was lazy, haha.)



Do you think that tie will work with the blue/white pinstripe shirt I posted in the series of pictures before?

I have a J frame on the ankle but it prints just a little bit and anyone that knows will know it is there, lol. I have another suit that is cut a little wider at the waist to allow a Glock 19 in the 4 o'clock position IWB in a Galco NSAII.

[Accumulator]

JasonC8301- You've beefed up a bit since your Corps days (and I mean that in a good way).

I'm assuming the sleeve length is OK and that it just looks like the R side (*your* right side) is shorter; I like the length on your left side better. Assuming it's just how it's hanging (if not, it shouldn't be a big deal to get that R sleeve let down a little), keep it in mind; there's probably some kind of subtle shoulder-shrug you can do to make it all fall into place just right.

Even though I can't see the rear of your cuffs, the pants look good, with the right amoutn of break.

Those cap toe shoes look a zillion times better than wingtips woulda

Brutal nitpicking honesty here: I wonder if a little more tailoring/tweaking might improve how the body of the coat fits in two areas

-It *looks* like the button is under a little bit of strain, like it's holding the jacket in place as opposed to the jacket naturally *hanging* in the right way...dunno if that makes any sense to you

-I'm not sure the way the jacket fits in the pec area is just right, esp. on the right side.

Don't get me wrong, it's not like it looks bad or anything like that; I'm nitpicking as if it were a 4-figure suit. I have those same kind of trouble spots on *my* jackets and I think it's because of the way our coats are tapered to fit us- it's a good problem to have and I suspect it's easier to see in pics than it is in real life. Heh heh, I catch myself thinking mine don't look quite right in some pics even though I'm confident they look fine IRL.

It sure fits you a *LOT* better than the suits worn by 99% of the people I see and it's *infinitely* better than my suits fit me in my early/mid-twenties. I just wonder if a tiny bit of adjustment might make it look even better.

OK, never mind *my* opinion- I just asked Accumulatorette's opinion: other than the sleeve thing, she said: "I think it fits him well, looks good". She's pretty discerning too so if she likes it, it's good. When I pointed out the two things I mentinioned above, she said: "well, OK..I can see what you mean...but it still looks good on him". Oh, and she *REALLY* agreed that it looks a lot better than my stuff did when she first met me

And OK, roger that on the J-frame and the 19 (yikes, a Glock IWB at 4 o'clock..ouch, I don't think *I* could ever get used to that). Where to you carry your SERE? My primary folder is always IWB at appendix/1-2 o'clock.

[JasonC8301]

Accumulator - yeah, got really into fitness in the life after the corps. I do not have to meet their operational standards with their given options for food. I am in a lot better shape now than any one time in the corps. Thanks for noticing, lol...

Yes my right hand side looks off because I did not adjust it. My Hamilton Khaki Navy GMT auto on the left wrist called for adjustment while my right side was left alone after the adjustment. When standing properly the sleeves fall to the same distance as the left one. This is also why the right side chest/waist area is a little off also, forgot to straighten it out after adjusting the time piece. My photgrapher was a little occupied and partially injured so I did not want him burning up in the photography position.

The rear of the pants/cuffs falls right on the area between the sole and the back of the shoe. I told my tailor to adjust it to USMC standards, lol. The shoes are Cole Haan Caldwell's. I will get another pair of shoes by January (budgeting concerns have left me to hold out until I get hired for work.)

1st point of concern - you are correct but the picture caught it in a weird way with the jacket and button stress. It hangs naturally and that stress is overstated. There is room to let it out some but is not necessary because my waist is going to drop another 1/2 an inch or so within the month. Some excess fabric from the shirt is also to blame, I didn't fully tuck it in after exiting my car and walking to the range. I'll see if I can get a better picture soon.

The second point of concern with the pec area was probably fit into the need for adjustment area with the right hand sleeve and the crocked tie, lol.

Nitpicking is what I am looking for. I really do appreciate you taking the time to point me in the right direction. To make it even look better is to add left arm candy, lol... There are some areas of concern and those are being worked on (need to adjust everything to be perfect for your detailed opinion (nitpicking is just so uhm, improper in my opinion) and continue to work on that spartan body, haha.)

I really do thank you Accumulatorette for her opinion's as well! Most folks where I work and go to school are just clueless from what I have seen. Well then again it college and not much is expected.

Glock 19 IWB or on the ankle is fine with me. I got used to it, although sitting and reaching for stuff makes you a little concious of if you will exhibit square butt poking out syndrome, haha. My Al Mar sere gets clipped to the left breast inside pocket. If I tried to put my blackberry in there it'll sag, so I put a thin wallet and blackberry on the right hand inside breast pocket.

It is changing times now. People are out working sooner and getting more mature and grown up sooner. What you think was horrible back them was probably what was socially acceptable.

Anyway it is true, we are in the minority...way way small minority of the population with a much bigger chest than waist. Unfortunately the opposite is quite true in American society where the waist is bigger than the chest.

Thank you both for the comments and advice! I'll be the best dressed administrative assistant aka secretary in NYC, haha...

[nrengle]

I may sound like a noob but my local Mens Warehouse actually had a really knowledgeable salesman and tailor right in the store. They walked me through all the different kinds of jacket styles, and fits, and then the same with the pants. I spent a good hour and a half at the store asking questions and trying things on. I'll probably end up buying from them again if the same people are there when I need another one. I know I know it's not form Hong Kong, but I can't afford that. The 500 I paid for the suit, 2 shirts, and tie were enough of a sticker shock.

Sad thing is I only have got to wear it twice so far. I don't work in a enviroment that requires it (I work on the road in the music industry), and then don't get to go to nice places often when I'm home since I'm saving for a wedding. At least I can wear it then.