Epoxy-Sheild Floor Installed this weekend - Page 7

MaThGr82 · 12-03-06, 11:26

Well...About a year and a half into it and it is still holding up great. Just thought I would update so everyone would know that this stuff is really good for the DIY'er

kyotousa · 12-03-06, 11:44

cool...how much was it?

MaThGr82 · 12-04-06, 12:01

In total I think it cost about $115. I;m having a hard time remembering though as it was about a year and a half ago.

BJ007 · 03-01-07, 04:11

Well,

I am going to revive this thing with my experience. I have completed the prep work up to this point and all I have left to do is actually apply the epoxy. We recently moved to a 30 year old house with a garage floor in decent shape. Plenty of little paint spills, a few cracks, some oil spots from previous vehicles, etc. It is roughly 22'x22', and I plan on using the same stuff as MaThGr82 - the gray Rust-O-Leum Epoxy Shield. I have 2 kits and have opted for the clearcoat as well. Here is the process...

1. Clean everything out of the garage!
2. Sweep out corners and cracks, using leaf blower to get out all of the dust.
3. Use Behr degreaser (1 gal) to hit entire floor, applied heavily on oil spots, stains, etc. Applied with garden style sprayer, scrubbed with stiff bristle brush.
4. Rinse and squeegee floor twice.
5. Use Behr acid etch on entire floor, going especially heavy on stained areas. Rinse and squeegee.
6. Use Behr acid etch on entire floor, rinse and squeegee twice.
7. Use citrus cleaner included with Rust-O-Leum kits, rinse twice.

I know the etching and the use of the citrus cleaner may seem like overkill, but at this point I do not want to have any regrets about the floor prep, especially after reading 7 pages and thinking about this project for several months! I will be applying the epoxy tomorrow morning and will try to take pictures along the way. One last sweep of the floor and we're off and running!

LucentTeg · 03-01-07, 04:38

I am interested in seeing your results. I plan on doing this as soon as winter clears up and I can get a good fres start on the garage.

Tasty · 03-01-07, 08:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by BJ007

Well,

I am going to revive this thing with my experience. I have completed the prep work up to this point and all I have left to do is actually apply the epoxy. We recently moved to a 30 year old house with a garage floor in decent shape. Plenty of little paint spills, a few cracks, some oil spots from previous vehicles, etc. It is roughly 22'x22', and I plan on using the same stuff as MaThGr82 - the gray Rust-O-Leum Epoxy Shield. I have 2 kits and have opted for the clearcoat as well. Here is the process...

1. Clean everything out of the garage!
2. Sweep out corners and cracks, using leaf blower to get out all of the dust.
3. Use Behr degreaser (1 gal) to hit entire floor, applied heavily on oil spots, stains, etc. Applied with garden style sprayer, scrubbed with stiff bristle brush.
4. Rinse and squeegee floor twice.
5. Use Behr acid etch on entire floor, going especially heavy on stained areas. Rinse and squeegee.
6. Use Behr acid etch on entire floor, rinse and squeegee twice.
7. Use citrus cleaner included with Rust-O-Leum kits, rinse twice.

I know the etching and the use of the citrus cleaner may seem like overkill, but at this point I do not want to have any regrets about the floor prep, especially after reading 7 pages and thinking about this project for several months! I will be applying the epoxy tomorrow morning and will try to take pictures along the way. One last sweep of the floor and we're off and running!

It's not overkill. This project is all about the prep work. I am having tire pull issues with my Epoxy Shield floor, but it has held up about as well as I expected it too in the 3-4 years since I've done it. I see a recoat in the future. Double thick.

BJ007 · 03-01-07, 08:17

I have two of the "single-car garage" kits (says ~250sq. ft. each) for my roughly 480sq. ft. garage, so I should be able to lay it on fairly well. My garage is separated into four "squares" by the indented lines. I'm sure there is a technical term for them that I am forgetting right now. But anyway, I am planning on doing one "square" at a time, and treating each as its own individual floor, so I should not have any of the aforementioned gloss differences in overlapping, etc. Hopefully.

Pics tomorrow!

paul34 · 03-01-07, 09:26

Hum, does anyone use primer? I've read that its important to use a few coats of primer to give the epoxy a really good base to adhere to (after all that hard prep work, of course).

What do you think? I've read a few of these threads and it doesn't seem primer is a popular option. Did I just read misinformation? I'm planning to do my dad's garage this summer so I'm currently researching epoxy flooring.

BJ007 · 03-02-07, 08:02

I had thought about using a few coats of primer, but couldn't decide on which would be the best. I know Behr makes it, but again, I wasn't sure if that was a critical step...seems like the people who do it without primer have good results also. I am up for any last minute recommendations!

Edit: I also took note that there are an excessive amount of chips and a seemingly excessive amount of chip "dust" at the bottom of each bag. I used a spaghetti strainer and dumped the chips in that, filtering out the larger chips as I plan to use those and not the dust and smaller chips. A relative has a professionally done floor and it looks like they used only the larger chips. After filtering, it looked like it eliminated about 1/4 of the volume of the chips.

twitch · 03-02-07, 10:20

BJ007 - Is Behr's acid etch muriatic acid?
According to Rust-Oleum's instructions it states-
Note: Do not use muriatic acid.
I wonder if they state this from a health perspective. Muriatic acid is some pretty nasty stuff. It looks like they could be suggesting to use their cleaner only since it is a mild citric acid.

Thanks for the tip about the chips.

paul34 - I am not certain that using a primer would be beneficial. This garage floor coating is made to be painted directly onto concrete. I would think using a primer may cause more of an issue because if the primer gives then the coating will more than likely come up in that spot anyway.

BJ007 · 03-03-07, 12:25

twitch - I read that the box said not to use muratic acid. The stuff that Rustoleum gives you is pretty mild and I felt it didn't really get it clean like muratic. When you put the muratic down full strength and really scrub it in, it gets that concrete CLEAN. 2 minutes of scrubbing for a 4'x4' square definitely gives it quite a bit of tooth.

On to my results...

Really, my walls look a lot whiter than that in person, honest! In the first pic, you can see some slight gloss differences at the far end of the floor. When you enter the garage from the house, they are not apparent, but at this angle they are. The second shot is where the garage door comes down and you can see a before and after detail. The third is just an overall shot of the garage the way it looks if you are standing in the doorway.

My thoughts... It dried pretty quick. You really should have two people, a roller and a helper (trim the edges, make sure the tray is full, sprinkle the chips, etc.). They are not kidding around about the drying time, you have to hustle to keep a "wet edge"! Also, the chips set on the epoxy, and I thought they would sink into it a bit more. No big deal for me since I'm going to do the gloss top coat on Monday. But maybe something to think about. Working the garage in quarters worked well for me since I was working alone. It gives you a definite start and finish to the area. 1 kit (1 gallon) covered exactly what it said it was going to, with ZERO left over. I thought I applied it pretty liberally, so maybe that is why I used it all. If you are planning on doing a space bigger than 500 square feet, I would definitely recommend having a third kit in reserve, just in case. Thats all for now, more on Monday evening after the gloss coat is done.

Edit: Oh, and I MAYBE used 1/3 of 1 bag of chips for the whole garage, so you can see the coverage that I got with that amount. I felt like the throwing the chips at the ground left them in clusters, so I started throwing them up maybe 7 feet in the air, and they distributed themselves nicely. You be the judge.

BJ007 · 03-05-07, 02:37

A few updates...

The clear coat went on this afternoon. No hiccups in the process, goes down a lot quicker than the base coat. It can be a bit difficult to see if you miss a spot, since it is clear. I recommend hanging a light from the ceiling about 2 feet from the ground and using that to be your gauge. I also used about half of the non-slip additive that was included with the kit.

Side note - a friend used this same system and said that he had good longevity with the product because his prep work was solid. He also cut cardboard strips for your tires to roll onto during the first month that the floor is down. Pics to follow perhaps tomorrow.