Useless Pads

Ralliart16 · 10-20-07, 12:37

Maybe if its just me, but in my short experience with using a rotary and UDM and the various pads, it seems like there are lot of useless pads.

For example, I have yet to work on a car that isn't LSP ready for hitting it with a light polish (such as Megs 83) and a white foam pad.

Yet, they make a gray finishing pad, and then a blue one, and autogeek sells a red one, all which seem to be an almost identical pad. Does anyone ever use these?

I also like applying and removing wax by hand, hence the lack of need for these 'useless pads'.

94BlkStang · 10-20-07, 12:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ralliart16

Maybe if its just me, but in my short experience with using a rotary and UDM and the various pads, it seems like there are lot of useless pads.

For example, I have yet to work on a car that isn't LSP ready for hitting it with a light polish (such as Megs 83) and a white foam pad.

Yet, they make a gray finishing pad, and then a blue one, and autogeek sells a red one, all which seem to be an almost identical pad. Does anyone ever use these?

I also like applying and removing wax by hand, hence the lack of need for these 'useless pads'.

You're using DACP with a white pad? Doesn't seem like it would break it down enough to get the full benefit of the product. I like DACP but have always used it with an orange or yellow pad and then followed with something like #80 with a white pad. If you haven't worked on a car that needs a more agrressive pad then you've been very fortunate to work on some cars in some pretty good shape. There are marks and scratches that I can't even get out with a yellow pad and DACP. As far as finsihing pads go, they are all very similar and I use a balck pad for glazes but don't put an LSP on by machine. Only by hand.

By the way I have been using a PC but will be using my UDM on a Honda detail here when the weather breaks and the DACP with a yellow pad will be called upon.

Ralliart16 · 10-20-07, 01:10

LOL I think you misread my post. I mean, for the last step polishing the white pad finishes it enough for an LSP. Of course I did heavy cutting (wool pads usually) beforehand, then usually an orange pad and a white pad for last. Now that I have my makita rotary, i rarely pull out the UDM.

I go to pads for cutting are usually:
Black Wool (rarely used), Yellow Wool(sometimes), Blue Wool (often)

and then foam pads, usually:
Orange then White

Basically what I am asking, is do I have anything to benefit from the pads I listed in the first post.

SVR · 10-20-07, 02:22

Yes that is true, you can finish with a white pad and it all looks perfect.
However I don't always finish my work on a car with the machine.
Oh and you can definately use all six pads by hand when hand polishing a car (4 inch that is) I no longer use the german applicators when doing swirl removal by hand on a really narrow body piece.

My Quick shot spray often gets used at 800 rpm with a black or blue LC pad for 10 mins per panel to make the paint brighter, deeper and to actually make some cars (doesn't work on all of them) like water instead of metal.

When I am really enjoying myself and wanting to really blow a customers mind, I will work 106FF or 85RD Final polish with a black and a blue pad and sometimes add some showroom glaze to the paint just after 106 has begun breaking down so that they work together to further enhance the depth and wetness

On really badly neglected cars, I do five steps with the machine and the last one is mostly ultra gloss and driven auto polish (4000 grit) with a blue pad for even more lustre.

imageautodetail · 10-20-07, 06:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by SVR

Yes that is true, you can finish with a white pad and it all looks perfect.
However I don't always finish my work on a car with the machine.
Oh and you can definately use all six pads by hand when hand polishing a car (4 inch that is) I no longer use the german applicators when doing swirl removal by hand on a really narrow body piece.

My Quick shot spray often gets used at 800 rpm with a black or blue LC pad for 10 mins per panel to make the paint brighter, deeper and to actually make some cars (doesn't work on all of them) like water instead of metal.

When I am really enjoying myself and wanting to really blow a customers mind, I will work 106FF or 85RD Final polish with a black and a blue pad and sometimes add some showroom glaze to the paint just after 106 has begun breaking down so that they work together to further enhance the depth and wetness

On really badly neglected cars, I do five steps with the machine and the last one is mostly ultra gloss and driven auto polish (4000 grit) with a blue pad for even more lustre.

Are you speaking about Hi tec Quick Shot, yellow can. I have never tried this before and have used Quick shot for some time, please explain a bit more-Thanks

SVR · 10-20-07, 07:58

No this is my own special mixture containing the best QD's and cleaners which contain a high content of polymer sealant.

Aurora40 · 10-20-07, 08:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ralliart16

Maybe if its just me, but in my short experience with using a rotary and UDM and the various pads, it seems like there are lot of useless pads.

For example, I have yet to work on a car that isn't LSP ready for hitting it with a light polish (such as Megs 83) and a white foam pad.

Yet, they make a gray finishing pad, and then a blue one, and autogeek sells a red one, all which seem to be an almost identical pad. Does anyone ever use these?

I also like applying and removing wax by hand, hence the lack of need for these 'useless pads'.

It sounds like what you are saying really is there are a lot of redundant pads, not useless. Those finishing pads serve a purpose, but I can't picture needing 3 grades of finishing pad either.

To me you more or less need a cutting, polishing, and finishing pad. Though something like an orange pad that is in-between cutting and polishing is useful also. The difference between a polishing pad and a finishing pad isn't so great (IMO) as to need something in-between. But you never know, someone out there might need one.

I don't think the pad makers expect you to do like 6 step-down polishings on a car though, even though they may make 6 grades of pad.

themightytimmah · 10-20-07, 11:03

Black/Blue/Red etc are functionally the same for me. They are useless for polishing via PC, but they give an amazing finish via rotary with an ultra-mild polish. Also, they are good for waxing via machine, if that's your thing.

94BlkStang · 10-20-07, 01:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by themightytimmah

Black/Blue/Red etc are functionally the same for me. They are useless for polishing via PC, but they give an amazing finish via rotary with an ultra-mild polish. Also, they are good for waxing via machine, if that's your thing.

I wouldn't say they are useless via PC or UDM as I use a black pad all the time to apply a glaze such as Clearkote's RMG or VM. Usually the finish is LSP ready with a white pad but I like that extra kick that a glaze can give and a black pad is so soft that it applies the glaze without any risk of marring.

SCutchins · 10-20-07, 01:57

I love Z-AIO with a black pad, and waxes with a blue pad. For me, red is worthless and I never use yellow, I go with wool if I need that much cut.

They also make a green which is supposed to be used with 106 but I use either white or black.

My main pads are purple wool (rotary), white (rotary), black (rotary and DA), and occasionally blue (DA). I guess if I was only using DA then I would do orange, but if I need that much cut then I go wool and rotary.