Applying Paint Sealants with a Rotary?

David Fermani · 10-01-07, 05:14

Has or does anyone ever apply their paint sealant with a final finish pad via a rotary?
I was told by 1 sealant manufacturer that "Some sealants can be applied this way and the product will cure almost instantly. Use a soft foam pad and apply one panel at a time, the more heat you generate the quicker the cure time and the greater the longevity of the sealant". Sounds right to me. What do you think?

JuneBug · 10-01-07, 05:22

I haven't, but I used a new sealant last Saturday that would probably be perfect for that. It was thin and kinda oily, I had to go back and wipe down the paint a second time.

mr.ikon · 10-01-07, 05:46

What is the recommended speed set at?

David Fermani · 10-01-07, 06:47

Didn't say, but I'd imagine 1500-2000 rpms is OK.

wannafbody · 10-01-07, 07:22

that might work for heat activated polymer products. I'd suspect that a PC on speed 6 would be just as effective.

themightytimmah · 10-01-07, 07:42

I've done a black finish pad @900rpms. No hologramming, but I'm not sure I'd want to bump it to 2000.

David Fermani · 10-01-07, 07:48

How about heating up the sealant/surface with a hot blow drier to promote cross linking?

NSXTASY · 10-01-07, 08:10

If heat is the sole objective, it would seem more practical to use air (blow dryer, heat gun, heater) rather than friction by a pad/machine.

Some products suggest exposing the surface to the sun in order to speed up curing of the polymers, the only product I can think of that reccomends this is Duragloss Marine Protectant.

wannafbody · 10-01-07, 08:38

Liquid glass recomends sun curing as well

Grouse · 10-01-07, 10:04

No i have not, but i do use several 1 steps with a rotary. and they work fine. Last pass drop the speed.

the other pc · 10-01-07, 11:01

The main reason manufacturers make sealants and waxes rotary compatible is because a huge percentage of the shops out there don't know anything but the rotary. It’s pure and simple marketing.

I guess as long as you use a very soft foam pad a relatively low speeds it’s reasonably safe.

I’d rather use a DA.

PC.

charger17 · 10-02-07, 03:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by the other pc

The main reason manufacturers make sealants and waxes rotary compatible is because a huge percentage of the shops out there don't know anything but the rotary. It’s pure and simple marketing.

I guess as long as you use a very soft foam pad a relatively low speeds it’s reasonably safe.

I’d rather use a DA.

PC.

It's nothing to do with marketing. There are a couple of reasons for appyling with a rotary.
The sealants are made up of silicone polymers which are placed into an emulsion of water and oil (solvents). When you apply the sealant by hand, you are also applying the emulsion, which holds the polymers in suspension until the water and oils evaporate and allow the polymers to merge and bond (cross link). This process typically takes 12 to 24 hours (12 hours in a warm dry climate, 24 here in the UK). By using a buffer to create heat and friction, you help the water and oils to evaporate much quicker, allowing the polymers to bond much quicker. I'm not saying that you need to try and get the paint red hot, just use a soft foam pad at about 1500rpm and work the product over the surface. Or you can wipe the sealant over the panel and use the buffer to remove the haze, same technique applies.
Another reason for using this technique is that it helps to smooth the polymers out. Products that are heavy in polymers can suffer from 'smearing', especially in cold damp weather. This is because polymers can be difficult to even out, so you end up having to spritz the panel with water or qd and buff to remove the smears ( this is basically leveling the polymers) Using a buffer means that you are levelling the polymers as you apply, and therefore tends to result in a better shine.
It also means that you can top with a wax without having to wait.