Working with single stage paint...suggestions?

[KYDetailin]

First of all, let me say hello, as I'm brand new to this forum. I'm active on the Tex detailing forum and on a local site as well.

Now that I have that out of the way, here's the deal. I just got a job today to work on a Harlequin.

I'm pretty excited about it! The paint is oxidized, but not terribly. It's swirled, but not terribly. The guy had a friend work on it once with a rotary and he went through the paint. Now there is a white mark on the passenger side door.

He is going to H2O and wants me to get his car looking nice. I know I can't fix the rotary mistake. He knows this too.

I just want to know how best to approach working on single stage paint?

Here's what I have at my disposal:

PC 7424
LC CCS pads: orange, white, gray.
Meg's light cutting pad and yellow polishing pad
Optimum Compound
Optimum Polish
Optimum Poli-Seal
Meg's #21
Duragloss

Those are the main things for paint. How can I best approach this while avoiding messing up the paint? Thanks for any tips!

[RTexasF]

Approach it as you would clear coated paint but plan on cleaning pads a lot during the process.

[KYDetailin]

Originally Posted by RTexasF

Approach it as you would clear coated paint but plan on cleaning pads a lot during the process.

You mean just with a pad brush for quick removal of excess paint/product?

[Holden_C04]

I spray the pad with a hose and clean off the paint and product completely. Takes about 30 secs and then I spin dry at speed 6. Completely dry and ready to go.

[themightytimmah]

You might want to pick up some megs #80... I can't overstate how effective it is on SS paint. I would go OC Orange/M80 White/M21 gray and top with a carnauba if possible. I like cleaning pads with a hose too - a little dawn or APC worked in goes a long way. The pads will look terrible after this job but it won't affect their performance at all.

[KYDetailin]

Originally Posted by Holden_C04

I spray the pad with a hose and clean off the paint and product completely. Takes about 30 secs and then I spin dry at speed 6. Completely dry and ready to go.

Hmm...ok, I don't know how you're getting a "completely dry" pad by just spinning it at 6. My pads will be 90+% dry after that, but still have moisture in them. And my LC CCS white pad is a freakin sponge. THat thing remains wet for days after I spin it. I really can't believe how hard it is to dry that one out.

But assuming I can get most of the water out, you do this DURING your detail job? I didn't think it was a good idea to have that much moisture mixed in with your product during a detail job?

Do you all actually hose them off while you're working? Then put more product on it and continue working?

Oh, and BTW...I know about using speed 6 for correction, but just curious...what speed to you all use for polishing? I use 5 with my OPT polish and white pad.

[todd@bsaw]

Originally Posted by KYDetailin

Do you all actually hose them off while you're working? Then put more product on it and continue working?

Correct. It will take some extra time but that's the issue with ss paint. I'd imagine the Harlequin will be even more difficult given the unique color situation.

Also, getting the pad 100% dry isn't necessary as long as it doesn't interfere with the product. With that car, I would clean the pad after each panel. Make sure you post pics when done!