Buffer Trails / Holograms

[blackf0rk]

Ok, I have a problem here and I can't seem to get rid of these darn buffer trails/holograms no matter what process I use. Here's the main process: Because I'm working on a 02 GM black with heavy swirls and scratches:

PB SSR3 w/ Yellow Pad @ 1500RPM - Medium Pressure
PB SSR2.5 w/ White Pad @ 1500RPM - Medium Pressure
PB SSR w/ Black Pad @ 1500RPM - Light to No Pressure

Under halogen and florescent lamps, there's no swirls or scratch. But when I take it outside, I have mega buffer trails and holograms. So, I figure I take back the speed on the white and black polishing steps, so...I try:

PB SSR 2.5 w/ White Pad @ 750RPM - Light Pressure
PB SSR 1 w/ Black @ 750RPM - No Pressure

No swirl marks in the sun now, but those buffer trails are still there. Not has bad as last time, but gone kind of. So I try this:

PB SSR1 w/ Black Pad @ 250-500RPM - No Pressure

Same thing. Buffer Trials. So I then try this process:

PB SSR2.5 w/ White pad @ 1000RPM - Light Pressure
PB SSR1 w/Blue pad @ 1000RPM - No Pressure

Buffer Trails are almost not apparent, but still readily seen when walking around the hood. So I thought maybe I was spinning the blue pad a little too fast, so I try spinning the blue pad with PB SRR1 @ 500RPM and @ 250RPM and the buffer trails will not go away.

I'm working the SSRs in till they clear, just before they start to powder. Any advice with these pesky buffer trails?

[PRB]

Some product and paint combinations won't finish on a rotary without some trails.

Seems you've done everything you can with the products, pads, and paint finish that you possibly could do. Kudos for the effort

If you're sticking with the same products and pads, then this is where a Cyclo, Porter Cable, UDM, etc...something dual action is mandatory for removing the trails.

Another option is to use a different polish and/or pad combination.

[Dave KG]

I'm not an expert on the SSR range, so hopefully someone can chime in with the specifics on the use of these to get the best from them on the rotary...

A couple of generics though: what size area are you working at a time? If the area is too large (>2'x2') then hte polish will be drying the vanishing before hte abrasives break down, resulting in the hologram marks that you are seeing as frequently they are caused by not fully breaking down the polish.

Also: how fast are you moving the machine across the paint? I find a steady machine pace, a flowing pace of about 2"/sec back and forth seems to work for me, move the machine too fast and light holograms can be inflicted, though this depends a lot on the paintwork you are addressing the and the abrasives in the polish you are using...

[WilliamHBonney]

Try the SSR1 with a white pad, should not have problems getting them out. It might be your technique if you are not used to rotary work.

[Dent's & Details]

Whose pads are you using? Lake Country. If so I would change your finishing product.
Optimum polish or Menzerna FPII.

[m4gician]

if you're sticking with the SSR line, I think you're using pads that are too soft!

It should be SSR3 Orange, SSR2.5 White, SSR1 White, SSR1 is a FINISHING polish and will clean it up really well.

[blackf0rk]

Well, I tried the white pad with SSR1 like many had suggested but it still leaves buffer trails. I tried it many different ways and speeds. Even at about 500RPM with little to no pressure it leaves trails! So, I tried SSR1 with a blue finishing pad and that seemed to remove the buffer trails.

I still don't know why the White pad keeps getting suggested? I've used the black pad (which is softer than the white pad) and that is even leaving trails. And why do you think that the white pad is too soft?

Also, Lake Country states that the black pad is used for removing buffer trails and swirls. Yet with this pad I still get them.

[Picus]

Sometimes softer isn't the answer, as weird as that seems. I've had cars where FPII/106ff will leave light halo's on a white pad, but on an orange it cleans them right up; usually those are harder paints though. Personally I never had much luck with SSR1 as a solid finishing polish via rotary (on soft paint). You may want to see if you can get some Meguairs 80 locally or something, just to give it a try.

[SVR]

I'm not a PB's expert so I may be all wrong here. from your explanation of each step, it's possible that your working them all for too long and your just starting to dry buff and bingo, holograms.

Usually if you use every product at 1300 to 1500 and then finish down at 750 to 900, you won't get holograms even with a yellow pad and definately not with a black or blue
I suggest switching finishing products.

[JuneBug]

SVR is right on the money, I've never had trails after buffing - even using a yellow pad and a compound, and I owe it all to the "zenith" method - start buffing at 600-900 - work it in at 1200-1500, ease back to 900-600 to finish. Don't try to do too much area at once, just what you can comfortably handle without moving around a lot.

[imageautodetail]

Originally Posted by blackf0rk

Well, I tried the white pad with SSR1 like many had suggested but it still leaves buffer trails. I tried it many different ways and speeds. Even at about 500RPM with little to no pressure it leaves trails! So, I tried SSR1 with a blue finishing pad and that seemed to remove the buffer trails.

I still don't know why the White pad keeps getting suggested? I've used the black pad (which is softer than the white pad) and that is even leaving trails. And why do you think that the white pad is too soft?

Also, Lake Country states that the black pad is used for removing buffer trails and swirls. Yet with this pad I still get them.

Before I got comfortable with a rotary, I would use a dual action with a 2000grit fairly fine polish and a light cut pad to finish, never had swirls, still use this technique on some black cars

[SVR]

Wow I'm actually correct for a change.