Question for PC users that switched to Rotary? - Page 2

doc-rice · 09-24-07, 09:45

A question from a new PC user: in general, how much time is saved by using a rotary vs. a PC? I've detailed the equivalent of 3 vehicles (quite a lengthy process when you're talking about hard clear and paint that's never been cared for) and today I started thinking that my time is pretty important to me. If I'm going to be doing a few friends' cars, it might be worth it to just spend $200 on a rotary, practice a bit on some junkyard pieces, and save some time in the long run. If I can save even 2 or 3 days worth or work, I think it might be worth it.

tod071 · 09-24-07, 10:35

Learning how to use the rotary only adds to your experience in detailing. I don't think anyone replaces a PC/UDM with a rotary. Its an addition to the PC/UDM and cuts the time to correct drastically. It has cut my time in correcting some pretty bad jobs. I think learning the rotary will only make you better and faster at paint correction.

JuneBug · 09-25-07, 09:15

I've got a PC and a Makita. Unless I need to do some serious corrections, I'll use the PC with an yellow - orange pad. The polishes I use finish down LSP ready and I apply a wax with the blue pad and I'm done. If I use the rotary for the same process, I find that it's not as easy, I have to watch for trim and moldings, the actual time spent per panal is about the same and I can man-handle the PC in more places. Please note, that the cars I detail are daily drivers and beaters, the customers are not taking it to the car show and they and I are more concerned with keeping the clear coat as thick as possible. To them, a few stray scratches that you only see if you tilt you head under the lights at the gas station - well, they ain't a big deal.

MikeWinLDS · 09-25-07, 12:51

I'd like to see what people have to say about going straight to rotary from nothing. I don't remember for sure, but I think Sean (G35Stilez) started out only with rotary, and he did incredible work. I don't know if he ever got a PC or even had problems with holograms or buffer trails that he would need a PC to even it out, but yea anyone else on here that started out with just the rotary? How hard is the learning curve straight from hand to rotary?

michakaveli · 09-25-07, 01:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by JDookie

... I would still rather grab my PC and/or Cyclo over the rotary any day.

You'll like the UDM.

SpeedEuphoria · 09-26-07, 05:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeWinLDS

I'd like to see what people have to say about going straight to rotary from nothing. I don't remember for sure, but I think Sean (G35Stilez) started out only with rotary, and he did incredible work. I don't know if he ever got a PC or even had problems with holograms or buffer trails that he would need a PC to even it out, but yea anyone else on here that started out with just the rotary? How hard is the learning curve straight from hand to rotary?

just got a makita rotary, used my new UDM once. Its a lot more powerfull, the controll is slightly harder but you have to realize that its more important also. It you slip around or hang on a spot too long w/ a UDM, no big deal, w/ a rotary, well hope for the best(not meant to make people fearful). This is on a cutting step. The rotary seems to bring more shine IMO. I plan on using it on my daily driver that i've already gone over w/ the UDM, see if I can get to some of the scratches that were still there beause I didnt have more time.

sneek · 09-26-07, 07:22

It isn't as easy to burn paint as most people think. Just get something to practice on.

SpeedEuphoria · 09-26-07, 08:33

yeah just stay away from using the edge of the pad, when getting into the tight spots. Also wool is much more user friendly imo

porta · 09-26-07, 08:46

Rotary is the only way for me when doing serious correction.

JDookie · 09-26-07, 08:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpeedEuphoria

yeah just stay away from using the edge of the pad, when getting into the tight spots. Also wool is much more user friendly imo

Doesn't wool create more heat?

ptaylor_9849 · 09-26-07, 09:00

I think you've got your answer. If money is tight then buy a cheap Chicago Electric rotory for thirty bucks. Of all the detailing tools and products I own there are only two that I wouldn't go without. My rotory and my foam gun. My foam gun eliminates wash induced marring and my rotory provides a shine that my P/C never could. Check out some of the click and brags of Rydawg and RickRack. Then look at the top of the post where they describe how they achieved their awesome finishes. I guarantee that they used a rotory almost every time. I only use my P/C for two things now: applying waxes and removing an occasional hologram.

Patrick

JuneBug · 09-26-07, 09:24

Wool actually runs cooler than foam, but you will get buffer swirls or haze from wool if you're using a heavy cut compound. They're easy to correct with foam pad and a good polish.