How fast/slow with rotary to remove swirls?

[cobrar97]

When using SIP (with LC CCP orange) on a 2'x2' area, how slow to you go to get the swirls out? Figure 1500-1700 as the speed. Do you go very slow or quick? Do you apply any pressure on the first couple passes, before the metal heats up, to break the SIP down or now? And how many passes do you make?

The SIP is the best product I've tried yet, and it doesn't add any swirl at all, but I still have some swirls that I cannot get out.

What the best technique for this stuff? Thanks.

[SVR]

600 to start and some pressure then up to 1000 for five passes and then 1200 to 1450 rpm for the next five and I finish at 850 rpm to break it down finer (dave kg method)

One to two inches of movement with the rotary per second also.

[D&D Auto Detail]

I havent used a rotary, but that seems like a lot of passes and moving pretty slow? With the PC its 1 inch per second on a 2x2 area and you dont need nearly 10 passes with it. Im just trying to learn.

[smprince1]

If you are new to rotary I personally wouldn't go over 1000-1400 RPM ... this is usually plenty fast enough to remove most swirls and reduces the chance of damage.

I would estimate I move the rotary about 4-6 inches per second, or maybe 2-3 seconds per foot said another way (1thousand1, 1thousand2, 1thousand3, etc.). Just keep it moving but don't get "jiggy" with it. Until you get the hang of it ocassionally feel the surface to see how hot things are getting.

Good luck.

[cobrar97]

When feeling for heat...what is "too hot"? Warm, hot like the sun's on it, or burn my finger hot?

[smprince1]

Originally Posted by cobrar97

When feeling for heat...what is "too hot"? Warm, hot like the sun's on it, or burn my finger hot?

"Burn your finger hot" seems too hot IMO.

Even when I'm doing paint correction with a rotary the paint never feels "hot", but instead "warm". Can certainly leave your hand on it with no discomfort.

[cobrar97]

For each 2'x2' section, how much SIP are you applying to the pad? 2 peas, 2 dimes, 4 dimes, and bead the entire way around the pad? I don't want to use too much or too little.

[Coupe]

Originally Posted by VaSuperShine

Wow, sip must stay wet longer than ANY other polish i have. every polish i have aside from optimum is dry by five passes max.

Ditto, dunno how he can possibly get that many passes.

I use OP the most becuase it can work for a long long long time, but not THAT long. 5 passes and its done.

[cobrar97]

SVR...let us know please.

[SVR]

Sure guys. Hey I'm no master, you guys are really
Almost all polishes are worked for 15 passes (one pass = moving from left to right)
If I don't do those five more at 850 rpm, the polish won't break down fine enough and enhance the finish that little extra amount

When starting, the pad gets two sprays of XMT pad conditioner and I apply a four inch line of Menz. Once that panel is done, it's one to three pea sized drops per 2 x 2 ft area or I'll add a couple drops on my finger and dab on a few inches apart along the area
When polish is in original bottle and doesn't have the flip up cap on it
I work with the twin halogens on and keep working until the polish goes clear and then finish up at that perfect 850 rpm speed.

Half way through, I may spray the area with XMT pad conditioner if needed and continue
If any of the polishes (menz alot) are drying quicker than I like, a few sprays of "Quick shot" polish working time extender is applied to keep it going and provide more lubrication for 106FF like easy application and less dusting

It's simply a mixture of Aussie gold showroom glaze (spray glaze and QD spray that lasts six months when used after polishing) and Driven to Perfection Quick Spray concentrate (magic stuff)

Read Dave KG's polishing until the product goes clear thread in the machine polishing area of Detailing World

Are you starting at 600. I can start my makita at 100 rpm by caressing the trigger to pick up the polish and then apply pressure at 600 and move to 1000 with no pressure where the removal power cuts in.

Hope this answers it.

[SVR]

Well that's how Dave does it and it sure has improved my work for sure. not hologramming as much with cutting pads and compound and a better finish.
It takes some polishes fifteen passes to break down properly before
Sure I've done ten for some and moved on to the next two or three steps.
It's only a minute or two anyway

Maybe I'll do a video of how I do it. It's no different really to anthony's or most people's with a rotary. I just work it for a few more passes at 850 instead of stopping at 1300 to 1400 like I used to do.

Makes a better finish in the end if you do that with each step.

here's the text from a PM to me from dave.


Hi mate,

Occasionally I get light holograms too, as now every set of passes ends up perfect, its just something that happens every so often... what I tend to do is use any remaining residue from the pad if a set leaves light holograms and mke two further passes with no new polish at about 900rpm just to clear the holograms. I know what you mean about it knocking your confidence though.

For finishing polishes, there is the finer cut Menzerna PO85RD, but to be completely honest with you I notice little if any difference between it and 106FF. At the finishing passes with the 106, the abrasives are really fine and yuo essentially have the lighter cutting polish automatically. Thats the reaosn I make so many passes: using Intensive Polish (85RD3.02) I finish down to LSP ready, as the abrasives break down to leave a very fine cutting polish which is essentially going to the finishing polish stage without the need for a separate polish. This works even on softer paints. 15 passes for me is 15 in each direction, so one movement say left to right over an area would be a "pass".

Cheers,

Dave

[cobrar97]

SVR...I'd LOVE to see a video. Please do one. I just want to see your speed and technique of movement. I'm pretty new to rotary and have yet to see someone actually use one. Email to cobrar97@hotmail.com or post me a link to watch it.