And I thought the Portercable would be easy to use. I need help!

[tarheels12386]

Alright well I went out and bought the porter cable 7424 and :
-2 orange pads via LC
-2 white pads via LC
-2 Blue pads via LC
-1 yellow pad via LC
- OP and OC
- XMT360
- Poorboys wax

So today I clayed the car and then went at it for my first time with the pc. Well it was not as all the reading seemed to make it. I lubed my pad with a QD and then put a dime size amount of the xmt360 on the pad. I then spread the wax on the paint with the pc off, then turn to three to get the xmt worked in for about a min then up to six till it is gone. One problem I am having it seems like it is hazing away before I turn to speed six. I then changed it up a bit and spreaded at speed one and then worked in at four then up to six. That worked a little better but not great. It also seems like I have to use a lot of the xmt on the pad to see it on the paint. I have a white car so it is hard to see in the first place. Why would I have to be using so much product and it disapear so quickly?

I did half the car with it then stopped because it just didnt seem like it was working out to well. I was doing this outside, and it was an overcast day with 80 degree temps.

[kleraudio]

hmmm, I think you were overworking the 360. It is an all in one type product, I would say speed 5 would be good just starting out. Its VERY VERY hard to see on light colored paint. I made the mistake my first time using and applied WAY to much on my silver truck.

You basically want to work it until it dissapears, maybe next time lighten up the pressure on the PC and work it a little faster than you would a polish. You dont need all the pressure and crawling arm movement with this product.

OP and OC are a different story.

Jim

[rkf76]

Originally Posted by tarheels12386

So today I clayed the car and then went at it for my first time with the pc. Well it was not as all the reading seemed to make it. I lubed my pad with a QD and then put a dime size amount of the xmt360 on the pad. I then spread the wax on the paint with the pc off, then turn to three to get the xmt worked in for about a min then up to six till it is gone. One problem I am having it seems like it is hazing away before I turn to speed six.

I did half the car with it then stopped because it just didnt seem like it was working out to well. I was doing this outside, and it was an overcast day with 80 degree temps.

First of all, what pad were you using? Secondly, hazing is what happens when wax residue dries, it's the film that's leftover. I can't imagine having to work 360 on speed 6, seems like overkill, especially considering how fast it breaks down. I'd say 4-5 max.

[BigAl3]

agreed with the fellas, 4-5 tops on the all-in-ones/cleaner wax's...

[tarheels12386]

Originally Posted by rkf76

First of all, what pad were you using? Secondly, hazing is what happens when wax residue dries, it's the film that's leftover. I can't imagine having to work 360 on speed 6, seems like overkill, especially considering how fast it breaks down. I'd say 4-5 max.

I am using the white pad. How much of the product should I be using per how many feet?

So speed 4 max?

[rkf76]

Originally Posted by tarheels12386

I am using the white pad. How much of the product should I be using per how many feet?

So speed 4 max?

white pad is good. Use a quarter sized drop on the first panel or two, then once the pad is loaded you won't have to use as much, maybe a nickel or dime sized drop. As a general rule, always work a 2x2 area. You may be able to increase that as you become more familiar with the machine and products, but for the most part staying at about that will save you alot of time and frustration.

360 does melt into the paint pretty quickly so it's all about adapting to the characteristics of your material, not trying to get your material to adapt to you. One thing I noticed is that you didn't make any mention of how the car looked before 360 or after.