Me + rotary= worthless

quantim0 · 04-29-07, 01:25

I am learning how to use a rotary and am having some trouble. I am practicing on my gfs 97 Grand Prix and not making any progress. The paint is in really bad shape, tons of swirls, scratches and oxidation. I have not had a problem getting the oxidation off and getting the panels looking black, not grey, again.

However, the swirls are not going anywhere with the rotary. I am using 6" Edge pads. I tried orange/oc, green/oc, green/op for my swirl removal and they don't seem to be budging. I go out my PC and took about 90% of the swirls out with green/oc in about 5 mins of work time. I am getting micromarring from any combo that includes OC and then just take it right out with OPS or OP on a blue pad. Also the orange/oc leaves holograms.

I am keeping my speed around 1300 max and the pads are staying nice and flat on the surface. Is it possible that I am making new swirls by using too aggressive a pad and compound?? I am so confused. I am reading on here that a polishing pad/compound might not leavng such bad marring is that correct?

Can anyone offer any advice on what I am going wrong or what I can try next to get the car looking good.

WilliamHBonney · 04-29-07, 01:28

Kick it up to around 1500 to 1800 rpms.

keep_it_clean · 04-29-07, 01:33

the optimum line of products was made to use with a rotary. alot of people have had problems using optimum with the pc. what is probaly happening is you are adding swirls with the rotary. if a pc will correct a paint problem than a rotary will also. rotary will do it faster and most people only use rotaries when there is serious paint correction needed.

aaron33 · 04-29-07, 04:07

The swirls are going away. It's just the holograms that are caused by the rotary that makes you think that the swirls are still there. Use the rotary on one section, then use a very light swirl remover that would never remove swirls on its own on that same section and you'll find the swirls are not there anymore.

themightytimmah · 04-29-07, 04:44

Andrew - I might be able to meet up with you this weekend and give you a quick rotary lesson. Send me a PM and I'll see if I can free up a little time.

bluej511 · 04-29-07, 04:45

1. Use less product, a rotary heats up a lot more then a pc so OC/OP melts a little bit more hence you need less product, 3-4 pea sized dots.
2 Make 2-3 passes with OC if its that bad of a shape then 2-3 passes with OP on a WHITE pad, green is a bit to aggresive for remove buffer swirls.
3 You can either finish with poli-seal or something even less abrasive then OP, if the paint is soft holograms will show a lot more.

WilliamHBonney · 04-29-07, 04:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by themightytimmah

Andrew - I might be able to meet up with you this weekend and give you a quick rotary lesson. Send me a PM and I'll see if I can free up a little time.

Yeah come up here and show me too. I think part of it might be my rotary. Its so damn heavy to me. I have the porter cable version. I was going to buy a new one this week but forgot about the ultimate detailing machine and I am now waiting on that to come out.

SVR · 04-30-07, 02:30

An agressive pad and compound will only swirl if you don't keep the pad flat.
Always follow with two to four steps with softer pads (LC black at minimum, blue is best) and don't go any higher than 1500 rpm.

I'm sure with practice that you'll work it out.

bluej511 · 04-30-07, 04:10

huh an LC black and blue wont remove swirls or scratches cuz ive tried lol i use a minimum of white, black and blue are finishing pads

gusbubba · 04-30-07, 06:34

You'd be surprised what you can accomplish
with a blue pad...especially on a rotary.

SVR · 04-30-07, 11:35

You didn't quite get my post. I also use the white, orange and yellow but I always finish with black and blue

It's actually amazing what you can get out with those last two pads and what a difference they make to the final result.

IMO the stronger pads/product get out the scratches and oxidation, the rest get the swirls out