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Old 04-10-07, 08:02   #1 (permalink)
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PC after rotary

I've read at a few sites that swirl marks made by a rotary can only be removed by a rotary. Is this true?
'cause I've also see/read people using a wool/rotary, then an orange LC/PC, and I was wondering who to believe.
 
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Old 04-10-07, 08:24   #2 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

if you are good with the rotary, you can finish swirl free.

If there are still some swirls/holograms after the rotary, the PC casn eliminate them.

Both statements are true.
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Old 04-10-07, 08:39   #3 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

I find the rotary to finish down nicely and more quickly than the PC. A finishing pad and light polish, properly applied, will leave a swirl-free, hologram-free surface - removing any hazing or holograms that may be left from a heavier polish or compound. A PC can also accomplish this, it just takes (me) longer.
 
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Old 04-11-07, 09:32   #4 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

If rotary holograms are especially severe, they might be more than the PC can handle..at least with ~6" pads in a reasonable amount of time. Old-time member NeoPrufrok had some on his black Audi that he simply couldn't get out by PC, the hard paint and the nasty holograms woudn't cooperate.

I'd expect a 4" pad on the PC, with an aggressive product, to be able to remove most anything, but I guess you never know.

IMO it's all just mechanical abrasion...ScottWax used to remove all sorts of horrible problems, including some really bad holograms, by *hand*. You "sand down" the paint with a product (by machine, by hand...by *rubbing it against the paint however you do it*) and eventually the paint gets "smooth" and there aren't any more flaws.

FWIW I've always been able to remove holograms with the PC/Cyclo, but I've never tackled any really awful ones; if I had any, I'd use the rotary to make them better first and then use the PC/Cylo...I'd admit I can't finish out 100% with just the rotary.
 
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Old 04-11-07, 03:21   #5 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

i was gonna ask the same question but haven't had time.

I just started using my rotary last night with some LLC pads, i used orange with OP @ 1400rpm to get rid of swirls and what not (only did one pass), then used the gray pad with OP @900rpm.

Now i still see holograms from last time i used a crappy pad but the area i did last night i cant really find holograms and i've looked a couple times, then again i only did a part of my hood maybe this weekend ill try it on the whole thing and see what i come up with.
 
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Old 04-11-07, 03:41   #6 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

Can someone describe or post a photo of what halograms look like?

I want to start using a rotary, for speed sakes. I really like my PC, but want more cut and speed.

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-11-07, 03:48   #7 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

well they can only be seen under sunlight, looks like a wave or fine swirls


sorta like that except this is just polish but under sunlight it will look like that
 
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Old 04-11-07, 03:53   #8 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

How exactly are they created? Just by "buring" the paint and not polishing?
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Old 04-11-07, 03:55   #9 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

its either not having enough polish/dirty pad/aggressive polish with aggressive pad
 
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Old 04-11-07, 04:53   #10 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

what is a good finish polish pad combo to eliminate holograms. i was thinking menzerna FPII with a polishing pad or shoul di be using a finishing pad?
 
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Old 04-11-07, 05:19   #11 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

gray/blue pad, me thinks that a white pad might be a little bit to abrasive, OP with gray worked amazingly well for me.
 
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Old 04-11-07, 05:28   #12 (permalink)
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Re: PC after rotary

My one and only time using a rotary, I used a Megs W7000 cutting pad w/Hi Temp Medium cut leveler and ended up with holograms all over. This was due to a combination of my noobness/aggressive pad and product. All over the holograms were easily removed using a PC/grey finishing pad and Vanilla Moose.



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