How to remove Makita backing plate?

Yuen · 02-14-07, 04:31

I bought a new backing plate for my Makita BO6040 but I have no idea how to remove the old backing plate. I tried using a hex wrench, and even a hex socket for additional leverage, but I don't even come close. The whole plate turns together with the socket. I used my other hand to hold the backing plate but I've put a fair bit of force on it and it won't loosen.

The previous owner used some glue to stick sanding pads onto the backing plate (the velcro wasn't holding anymore), so I'm wondering if it's my technique, or perhaps some glue went inside the hex screw hole and glued the screw tight? Or is there a way to lock the backing plate?

FYI the BO6040 is a secondhand unit so it didn't come with a manual

Cheers guys.

BigJimZ28 · 02-14-07, 06:14

the good news
here's your manual!:
http://www.makita.com/assets_product...als/BO6040.pdf

the bad news
it sounds like you are trying to remove it the wright way

joe.p · 02-14-07, 06:39

just as bigjim said.. According to the manual your doing it correctly .

Changing The Pad:

Remove the screw counter clockwise from the center of the base with a hex wrench. after changing the pad tighten the screw clockwise securely..

Changeling · 02-14-07, 01:49

Yuen, try this, you have nothing to loose!
Put the whole thing in the freezer for several hours. This will contract the metal (heat expands, cold contracts), have your tools ready. Try quickly to take it off in the normal manner. If it doesn't want to budge at this point (remember you are moving quickly) give the wrench a strong rap or so with a rubber headed mallet.
This should break the contact. Remember move quickly for all the above moves.
Changeling

PS. You might want to use some gloves for this as the metal will be very cold.

BigJimZ28 · 02-14-07, 02:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Changeling

Yuen, try this, you have nothing to loose!
Put the whole thing in the freezer for several hours. This will contract the metal (heat expands, cold contracts), have your tools ready. Try quickly to take it off in the normal manner. If it doesn't want to budge at this point (remember you are moving quickly) give the wrench a strong rap or so with a rubber headed mallet.
This should break the contact. Remember move quickly for all the above moves.
Changeling

PS. You might want to use some gloves for this as the metal will be very cold.

I am not sure how I feal about putting a $250 polisher in the freezer
but it's your money so do what you want

mikebai1990 · 02-14-07, 02:14

It probably won't damage anything, but I have my doubts that freezing it will allow it to contract enough to make a difference.

wannafbody · 02-14-07, 02:45

maybe try some PB blaster-it loosens most stuck stuff

BigJimZ28 · 02-14-07, 02:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdekany

there is a black knob on the head of the mashine. Press down on it and unscrew the plate. No tools needed.

wrong tool, he is asking about a RO not the rotary

tdekany · 02-14-07, 02:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJimZ28

wrong tool

Sorry - didn't read......

Accumulator · 02-14-07, 04:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJimZ28

I am not sure how I feal about putting a $250 polisher in the freezer
but it's your money so do what you want

It shouldn't hurt it any. When I had the dealership my employees left the Cyclo outside for a weekend during the winter..think "snowstorm".. and once it dried out it was fine. Just getting cold and having a little condensation from the warm-up shouldn't cause any problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wannafbody

maybe try some PB blaster-it loosens most stuck stuff

Yeah, PB is good stuff (and they support our Jag club too

) but be careful to clean it off any place you don't want it.

Then there are impact drivers or long-handled breaker bars...and whacking the wrench with a BFH instead of a rubber mallet

ZoranC · 02-14-07, 05:11

I don't like idea of putting it in freezer. While moisture this will cause might not cause anything it is still a moisture in areas I would not like moisture in, plus freezing can result in things cracking. Does not have to but might. I would hate an idea of doing something that might result in electrocution.

Not to mention that whole idea depends on which metal will contract more, one being threaded or one of being threaded into. Depending on contraction/expansion rates it might not be cooling that one that wants but heating up.

If that was me I would say it is all issue of torque (assuming thing is not glued in or cross threaded) and would look for someone with stronger hand grip than mine (which doesn't happen, it's usually people coming to me for that, but I digress).

Yuen · 02-15-07, 04:04

Thanks for the help guys, I'll try using some PB Blaster, and get a friend to hold on to it while I use both hands to turn it with a rachet, if that doesn't work we'll try to clamp it down somehow so we can put some major torque down without it spinning. If that doesn't work, then I guess it's down to the freezing method!

BigJimZ28: Thanks for the manual! I will be printing that out.