Wool Pads. - Page 2

ConglomrationAL · 01-30-07, 05:11

Thank you Ryan. That's some good info right there.

Accumulator · 01-30-07, 09:56

RAG- You got my attention! As I just posted on another "wool pad" thread, I'm spending *hours* with the rotary on the M3, trying to do correction with orange and yellow foam pads and H-T EC. Some jobs on b/c paint apparently *do* call for wool pads, I'm just not used to doing cars in this condition (or at least not used to trying to get them really nice).

Dave1- I've removed 2500-3000 sanding scratches from hard clears with just the PC and foam pads. Done 2000 ones a few times too. Just takes time. Goes faster with the rotary, but you don't have to get all *that* aggressive if you're only comfortable with the PC and I've never found foam pads to be too mild (not like with the above-mentioned M3).

rydawg · 01-30-07, 11:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConglomrationAL

Thank you Ryan. That's some good info right there.

No problem...I am just trying to help you and everyone out!

wannafbody · 01-30-07, 06:31

wool and HTEC-would that combo smooth out deep etching?

3Dog · 01-30-07, 08:06

Great write up Ryan. I remember the days fondly

when you had a choice between wool and wool.. a nice bolt through the center to hold the pad and speed was regulated on your all metal polisher by your trigger finger.

themightytimmah · 01-30-07, 08:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by wannafbody

wool and HTEC-would that combo smooth out deep etching?

I never liked taking out etching with a wool pad - I guess it would, but it's all too easy to knock down an edge to primer with a wool pad. Personally I'd try to sand it with 2500 or 3000, by hand on the edges and R/O air sander on the open areas.

rydawg · 01-30-07, 09:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Dog

Great write up Ryan. I remember the days fondly

when you had a choice between wool and wool.. a nice bolt through the center to hold the pad and speed was regulated on your all metal polisher by your trigger finger.

I remember the bolt. I think all the buffers are still like that. You just have to buy the hook and loop plate. I guess we never think of that. It's amazing how times have changed and thank god for the pc. Finish work is now fun and not just hard work anymore. I still have the old school black and decker rotory with no speed control, just 3000 rpm and I never had a problem. My other buffer I had that broke had an adjustment felt slow at 1200rpm. I am just use to higher rpm, cause that's what I learned 20 years ago. I guess I am good like that, especially after doing thousands of cars. I still love the pc cause it is a fun machine.

SilvaBimma · 01-31-07, 12:15

rydawg,

Would you recommend a Wool pad for heavy oxidation? What other products besides Presta would be effective with wool?

rydawg · 01-31-07, 05:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilvaBimma

rydawg,

Would you recommend a Wool pad for heavy oxidation? What other products besides Presta would be effective with wool?

A wool pad made for compounding is all you need. Make sure it is white depending on the brand (3m, megs, etc.). Make sure it is a velcro back, unless you want to do the old fashion way and have the nut and bolt in the middle!

As for compounds and polishes, it depends on your finish and how much it needs. For mild surfaces a mild polish is all you will need (OC or OP if you have it). I have used OP with decent results, I just had some slight marring from that polish, but it's nothing a pc can't fix and turn into a show shine after the rotory. The reason why I love Presta Ultra cut light or Chroma 1500 is cause it was designed for wool and made for show car finishes with no fillers. The best part is it breaks down into a finer polish fast as you work it resulting in a smooth glossy finish. Spray a little water or QD spray and it breaks down faster and finer. Plus the instant gloss you get tells you when you are done. It's also not that aggressive and does not clump and jump. I have also been told by pro's and have seen pictures of this new stuff called "Surefinish". Some people have told me they like it better than presta and is really made for a newbie! I have not tried it yet, but I will soon. I have a thread I started a few weeks back about a compound/polish that I love and you will find more info there.

Which compounds and polishes do you have?

Rydawg

rydawg · 01-31-07, 06:03

Also I was playing around last night with my new Presta Ultra cutting Creme Light with a pc and a lc yellow pad and tested it on a couple of cars again. Even with a yellow pad, it still took out defects and finishes down super!!!! A yellow to me is still not that aggresive, but it does an amazing job. These yellow pads are the best ever! I do not like the orange pads though...too stiff and grabby. Just my personal experiance with 3 different cars. Coming from a pro I would start with yellow lc pad and a pc and if this does not work then go to wool with a rotory.

JuneBug · 01-31-07, 10:23

I have the whole assortment of LC 6.5" DA pads and I can't tell much if any diferrence between yellow and orange on the PC. Maybe it's just me, but it seems that they both work a lot better after a few details than when brand new. Also, could be the products I use. There must be a million variables in this biz!

Bbasso · 01-31-07, 11:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by rydawg

the old fashion way and have the nut and bolt in the middle!

Dammm you are making me feel very old.

I started out with that setup, Like 20 years ago...