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Old 10-08-06, 12:32   #1 (permalink)
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hazing and hazing w/ blue edge 2000 & SSR1

Hey folks,

I was helping a friend remove dealer-installed swirls on a black 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer Evo via PC and Poorboy's SSRs.

I was getting a ton of hazing from SSR 2.5, and when I tried to clean it up with SSR1, I got rid of most of it, but some still remained. THe final product wasn't perfect and I was bummed.

I was using the following products:

* Edge 2000 pads: orange, green, blue
* Poorboy's SSR 1 & 2.5

I also tried at the end:

* 4" spot pads from ProperAutoCare, orange and white

Basically the results:

Edge 2000 orange + SSR 2.5: swirls removed, but the result wicked hazy (see pic I'm going to post next)
Edge 2000 blue + SSR 1: removes most haze, but still to omuch haze left. Removed like 70% of the haze, left 30%.

Edge 2000 green + SSR 2.5: I tried this because I thoguht that maybe Edge 2000 orange pad was ot breaking down SSR 2.5 enough, so maybe a more aggressive pad would, but the results were pretty much the same, just as much hazing.

In the end, I took out my 4" spot pads.

White 4" pad + SSR1: cleared up 90% of the hazing, left 10% there. Worked much better than the Edge 2000 Blue + SSR1 combination.

The thing that bothered me the most is that the Edge 2000 blue + SSR 1 didn't remove all the hazing. Isn't SSR1 supposed to be the final polish that leaves the surface pefect?

And why did the 4" white pad work so much better than Edge 2000 blue + SSR1??

And what product and pad should I use to leave the finish perfect? I am willing to try new pad and product to get this all cleared up (pun intended).
 
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Old 10-08-06, 12:37   #2 (permalink)
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You can see the area where I used SSR 2.5, first pass:



Dealer-installed swirls on the trunk:



This is after finishing the trunk with Edge 2000 blue pad + SSR1. Swirls gone (w/ SSR 2.5 earlier), but there's hazing now!!!

 
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Old 10-08-06, 12:38   #3 (permalink)
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I generally try to move 1" a second. I use speed 5 at all times.
 
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Old 10-08-06, 01:03   #4 (permalink)
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How may passes are you making, are yousure the polish is bieng broken down all the way, also, dont be afraid to crank that thing on up to six.
 
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Old 10-08-06, 09:07   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo62381
How may passes are you making, are yousure the polish is bieng broken down all the way, also, dont be afraid to crank that thing on up to six.
i'm making about 3-4 passes over the same area at 5.

does this look like the polish is not being broken down enough? is it ok to run the blue pad w/ ssr1 at speed 6?
 
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Old 10-09-06, 12:20   #6 (permalink)
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Use speed 6. Move slowly and make multiple passes. Try not to overload the product either, just use enough for the area you want to work in.
 
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Old 10-09-06, 12:44   #7 (permalink)
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yeap, that's the problem. Try crankin gthe speed to six, add a little more pressure, and then move it around and make about 7-8 passes. SSR is very iffy.Mitsu paint should be pretty soft. I detailed a lancer before also.
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Old 10-09-06, 03:07   #8 (permalink)
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I have used SSR2.5 twice now, im no professional and am still learning how to use my PC correctly. But I had the speed set to 3 in both instances.

I find how well the product breaks down depends on temperature and humidity a lot. I would also try using an Edge yellow pad, I had a great deal of success with that combo.
 
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Old 10-09-06, 08:14   #9 (permalink)
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From the pictures it looks like you are not breaking the polish down enough...too much hazing for SSR2.5.

Here is what I'd recommend -

The amount of passes and time will vary - polish, temperature, humidity, speed, speed of movement, pressure, pad & paint all play a factor on "how long to work the polish in".


Here is what I do with any new polish I use for the first time ·

* Using a 1'x1' section - apply the polish the same as any other polish
* using little pressure and speed 4.5 - 5 work the polish in.
* At each change in the polish I remove a section and see how the paint looks
* repeat at each change until very little or no hazing is present (this will very depending on the abrasiveness of the polish).

The reason for speed 4.5-5 and little pressure is, it goes through the stages slower so you can determine when it's broken down without under or over working the polish.

After doing this you will now know what it looks like when the polish is broken down and you can increase the speed, pressure, etc. to get the job done.

Good luck!
 
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Old 10-09-06, 10:46   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice, I am keeping a list of things to try.

How can I tell if I use too much product? That is, if I *do* use too much product, does that mean that it will take forever for the polish to break down? Or does that mean that is simply won't break down fully at all?
 
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Old 10-09-06, 05:06   #11 (permalink)
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Check out tihs site:
http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/
it shows you the processes for SSR almost with videos. It was VERY VERY helpful to me when i started detailing. I'm so glad to whoever started it and probably is willing to donate money too. But check it out, it shows you what causes hazing and such.
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Old 10-12-06, 05:53   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artikxscout
Check out tihs site:
http://paintcare-n-detailing.com/
it shows you the processes for SSR almost with videos. It was VERY VERY helpful to me when i started detailing. I'm so glad to whoever started it and probably is willing to donate money too. But check it out, it shows you what causes hazing and such.

Thanks and your welcome . I'm glad it has helped you and hopefully it helps others by taking some of the guess work out of polishing with a PC and basic detailing.
 
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