Hitachi sp18va rotary polisher . . .

fdizzle · 10-05-06, 08:28

Iv only had a PC for two months. Want to try a rotary out, but dont worry, Im going to use it on junkyard body panals to get some expierience first, then move to cars that are FUBAR and/or totaled before I even start using it on my own cars or for customers. Im also going to start hitting up all the rotary threads, to see what people are talking about. I know there are a lot of people here that use rotarys, so please. . . . if you have time throw me your 2 cents . . .

HITACHI SP18VA POLISHER/SANDER. . . .

Has anyone here used this machine?

found a good deal on one, and i like the 5 year warranty they offer . . .

pros ..... cons......

help me out you rotary nuts..... IM OPEN TO ALL CRITICISM

GearHead_1 · 10-05-06, 08:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by fdizzle

Iv only had a PC for two months. Want to try a rotary out, but dont worry, Im going to use it on junkyard body panals to get some expierience first, then move to cars that are FUBAR and/or totaled before I even start using it on my own cars or for customers. Im also going to start hitting up all the rotary threads, to see what people are talking about. I know there are a lot of people here that use rotarys, so please. . . . if you have time throw me your 2 cents . . .

HITACHI SP18VA POLISHER/SANDER. . . .

Has anyone here used this machine?

found a good deal on one, and i like the 5 year warranty they offer . . .

pros ..... cons......

help me out you rotary nuts..... IM OPEN TO ALL CRITICISM

I probably feel differently than many people do about rotaries. I'm sorry but I've just never found them to be that difficult to use. I cut my teeth using rotaries on show cars over 25 years ago and to date I've never burned through paint except one time we were screwing around and trying to do it. I must say that I know they can be a real problem in the wrong hands but if a person has a little common sense and is willing to start slow or use a piece they can practice one, it comes to you in short order. Don't dwell on corners and don't hover any one place too long. I've used a ton of different buffers over the years and they have gotten both lighter and more powerful. If you've practiced using a PC I think it will come to you very quickly. I actually use my PC more these days than I do my rotary. I don't do this for a living so high volume production isn't my main concern. My vehicles also are kept in good enough shape that I seldom have the need for a rotary. Having said that both are good tools if used correctly.

I can't speak directly to the machine you've mentioned as I've never used it. I have had very good luck with my Makita however. I've also got a very inexpensive Harbor Freight buffer that shouldn't be anyone's first choice but it works just fine and I would have no problem using it as a back up. It is a little heavier than the Makita.

The machine you are looking at is an 11 amp variable speed machine weight 6.2 lbs. That ought to be a nice machine though perhaps a little on the light side. Great for working on side panels but requires more pressure from the user on top. I don't like the loop style handle as well as a side handle but that's strictly a personal preference thing, many feel just the opposite. I jumped to a page that had these for $149, the price sure seems right.

Mr.Dan · 10-05-06, 09:10

I hope you don't mind me asking some questions in your thread. I'm also looking at the same unit.

I'm in the exact same situation as you are. Started few months ago, and although the PC is great, i find that it takes a long time (4-5 hrs+) to correct serious paint defect on an entire vehicle. As such i'm looking into a rotary and want to test one out.

Do you use the rotary the same as you would with the PC? i.e. Pressure, passes, overlapping passes, pad selection, etc.?

fdizzle · 10-05-06, 09:27

Though I dont use on myself. . .yet . . . . there are different methods for the rotary application - for a quick answer PM Accumulator, G35stilz,Dave B, Skubasteev or scottwax (sorry if i left you other heavy hitters out) Their exiperience and results alone speaks for themselvs-

This is a hot buy on autogeek right now - iv checked over 30 other websites and have yet to find one for under 180$ - and their selling it for 150$

The thing has a crapload of power, but it is significantly lighter than the other major names . . .

hey GEARHEAD . . . thanks for the reply, you speak the truth. if you start slow and keep that machine moving, and actually pay attantion to what your doing . . I think anyone can use a rotary safely..... now to get results.... that takes skill, and time spent. I just want somthing to get rid of imperfections faster.

Djmigs · 10-05-06, 09:54

Fdizzle- wont add to much since gearhead has spoken..but you must be more aware with the unit meaning more then a pc and also and stay below 1200 rpm until then move up, also try the burn test once is always recommended, it will damage your pad but at least you will know what to expect and know how far it take to burn.....

again it sounds like you be reading and getting good advice from other power hitter members here, just like you said start with junk hoods and work yourself up....hitachi is the same if not simular as the makita but with a five year warranty plus a tad lighter.....

by the way i thought i might save you some buxs and link you to this site were you can get the hitachi at cost...

hitachi sp18
by the way i was informed buy the Sensei Chris aka Spoiledman

Eliot Ness · 10-05-06, 09:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Dan

......Do you use the rotary the same as you would with the PC? i.e. Pressure, passes, overlapping passes, pad selection, etc.?

There is a very good "sticky" thread at the top of this forum called Rotary Usage that should get you started in the right direction.

SpoiledMan · 10-05-06, 10:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Djmigs

by the way i was informed buy the Sensei Chris aka Spoildman

Thanks sir! It's a great unit and I've had mine for about a year. I wouldn't trade it for anything else that I've used. You get good weight, power, quiet, durable, good price and a 5 year warranty. What more could you ask for?

Note: I have NOT used a Metabo or Fein. Nice units from what I hear but they're also much more pricey.

fdizzle · 10-05-06, 11:06

HEY MIGS - NICE LINK . . . for that price . . .F^%$ it - I'v got half the mind to buy two . . . .

Great advice guys . . .thanks again.

lecchilo · 10-05-06, 02:25

fdizzle hope you don't mind... i had a few questions regarding the hitachi since i wanted to purchase it soon

i was wondering if anyone can compare the hitachi mentioned in this thread to the vector rotary properautocare sells (link )

i'm asking because i was looking into buying the hitachi or makita but just now realized that the hitachi, and maybe even makita, might be too light compared to the vector...

and i'm in love with the vector... it is 7lbs which is a little heavier than the makita and a little more heavier than the hitachi... but the weight is distributed perfectly imo... since the top is heavier and very easy to control...

the only other rotary i've tried is the harbor freights chicago rotary (link ) that was selling for $30 so i thought i'd try it out...i'm selling it today after 5 days owning and 20 mins using it... it's way too light for my taste and pretty short... it was very hard to control for me because it was so light and just kep flying around until i got used to it a little... does anyone know how heavy the chicago rotary is btw and the length?? if it's close to the weight of hitachi or makita, there's no way i'll ever get anything than the vector

again, very sorry for interrupting the thread and if necessary i'll delete this post since i'll probably make a new thread about this

thanks in advance

GearHead_1 · 10-05-06, 02:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by lecchilo

fdizzle hope you don't mind... i had a few questions regarding the hitachi since i wanted to purchase it soon

i was wondering if anyone can compare the hitachi mentioned in this thread to the vector rotary properautocare sells (link )

i'm asking because i was looking into buying the hitachi or makita but just now realized that the hitachi, and maybe even makita, might be too light compared to the vector...

and i'm in love with the vector... it is 7lbs which is a little heavier than the makita and a little more heavier than the hitachi... but the weight is distributed perfectly imo... since the top is heavier and very easy to control...

the only other rotary i've tried is the harbor freights chicago rotary (link ) that was selling for $30 so i thought i'd try it out...i'm selling it today after 5 days owning and 20 mins using it... it's way too light for my taste and pretty short... it was very hard to control for me because it was so light and just kep flying around until i got used to it a little... does anyone know how heavy the chicago rotary is btw and the length?? if it's close to the weight of hitachi or makita, there's no way i'll ever get anything than the vector

again, very sorry for interrupting the thread and if necessary i'll delete this post since i'll probably make a new thread about this

thanks in advance

I think Harbor Freight has a couple of different polishers. I have an old one of their machines and I'm sure it's in the 7.5 pound range. I think the new ones are a pound or so lighter. They have significantly less power (9.5 vs. 11 amp) than the Hitachi or the Makita machines. I can't speak for the Hitachi machine but I can tell you that the Makita is a very smooth, controllable machine. I can still use my cheapy in a pinch without any real problems however. I don't know this but have been told that the more expensive of the two Harbor Freight machines is very similar to the Vector machine though with out the closed trigger gaurd and less amperage.

lecchilo · 10-05-06, 02:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by GearHead_1

I think Harbor Freight has a couple of different polishers. I have an old one of their machines and I'm sure it's in the 7.5 pound range. I think the new ones are a pound or so lighter. They have significantly less power (9.5 vs. 11 amp) than the Hitachi or the Makita machines. I can't speak for the Hitachi machine but I can tell you that the Makita is a very smooth, controllable machine. I can still use my cheapy in a pinch without any real problems however. I don't know this but have been told that the more expensive of the two Harbor Freight machines is very similar to the Vector machine though with out the closed handle and less amperage.

is the makita top heavy or does it feel equal through the whole piece??
as for the harbor freight, it's possible that the more expensive one is the 7.5 since vector is 7
i'm not a fan of the closed handle like hitachi and makita are now shown with on autogeek, etc... i like my side handle

btw... do you know where i can buy just the handle?? idk what machine it came from i just want to see a variety of handles that fits the thread

thanks for the reply btw

fdizzle · 10-05-06, 03:22

mind . . . how dare you intrude on my questions . . .

j/k

well, one problem....im torn even further now - MIGS - that link you gave me, their selling the Porter Cable for 105$

Anyone use the portercable rotary ?