A few quick PC questions

HardcoreHehaw · 02-21-06, 05:48

I Just want to clarifiy some things becuase I'm completely new to the whole machine polishing thing.

1) It is pretty much hard to damage your vehicles paint with a PC unless you are actually trying to do so.
2) The color coded pads are used to actually apply the products, they are slipped over a backing plate, correct?
3) When you wish to buff off the product you just slip a buffing bonet over one of the pads? the firmest one you have?
4)I'm sure there are different types of buffing bonnets, but does it really matter as much as say.. the pads used to actually apply the product? Like would a polish require a different type of bonnet than a sealent or wax?
5) I know that a PC will drastically improve your chances of getting swirls out and it will make applying and removing waxes/sealents a lot easier and faster, BUT, will it actually yield better results over the same product applied by hand? For arguements sake lets say that product is just pure carnuba wax.

for any light you may be able to shed

a.k.a. Patrick · 02-21-06, 05:58

1. But not impossible
2. Apply polishes, glazes, sealants, and to assist the polishes in diminishing the scratches and/or swirls.
3. I guess thats possible with some finnesse, but I prefer removal by hand.
4. You obviously want one thats is soft and wont harm the finish, f electing to remove with a bonnet/pc.
5. Depending on the product, results will vary. I would venture to say a Nuba applied by hand vs. PC may be non-distinguishable. However, polishes are a different story altogether.....

sQuashed · 02-21-06, 06:14

you will not use different "bonnets" for applying polishes,glazes and sealants. You will use different "pads" for each different situation. I, as patrick has stated, have never used the slip on bonnets for removal. Its easier (and more complete IMHO) to remove products by hand only.

HardcoreHehaw · 02-22-06, 05:38

So you guys don't use the PC for removal, you only use it for application?
Now I'm all confused.

I thought that was the whole purpose of it was to speed things up and and save your arm strength by making it do the work of buffing.
Or is that you guys just happen to prefer to buff it out by hand?

Neothin · 02-22-06, 06:04

I think you have all your verbs mixed up. Buffing and polishing are the same thing. Both relate to using a machine (or sometimes your hand if your unlucky enough to not have at least a PC) to use an abrasive polish to burnish the paint to remove defects such as waterspot halo's, swirls, and other types of marring. removal is where you actually take the products off the paint.

Most of the polishing is done by machine due to the human body not having the capability to make thousands of orbits per minute. removal is mostly done by hand with a high quality MF towel because bonnets on the PC cake up with product too fast and the quality of the MF in bonnets is normally not as good as that of towels (and this can cause scratching in the paint that you just polished to perfection!)

I hope that helps

the other pc · 02-22-06, 07:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by HardcoreHehaw

...2) The color coded pads are used to actually apply the products, they are slipped over a backing plate, correct?...

The backing plate has a flat face with Velcro “hook” and the backs of the pads have a matching Velcro “loop” to hold them together. Important note; Velcro isn’t strong enough to hold a pad on the orbiting plate if it’s not touching the surface. That’s why you need to always start the PC on the surface and wait till it stops to remove it. (Otherwise it will take a flier. Every body makes that mistake once.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by HardcoreHehaw

...3) When you wish to buff off the product you just slip a buffing bonet over one of the pads? the firmest one you have?...

Bonnets work great for removing products that dry like waxes and sealants. Polishes and compounds should be removed wet. Bonnets load up too fast if you try to remove wet products. Always use a clean, dry pad for bonnets. Otherwise whatever is in the pad will bleed out while you’re trying to use it.

PC.

HardcoreHehaw · 02-23-06, 05:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Neothin

I think you have all your verbs mixed up. Buffing and polishing are the same thing. Both relate to using a machine (or sometimes your hand if your unlucky enough to not have at least a PC) to use an abrasive polish to burnish the paint to remove defects such as waterspot halo's, swirls, and other types of marring. removal is where you actually take the products off the paint.

Most of the polishing is done by machine due to the human body not having the capability to make thousands of orbits per minute. removal is mostly done by hand with a high quality MF towel because bonnets on the PC cake up with product too fast and the quality of the MF in bonnets is normally not as good as that of towels (and this can cause scratching in the paint that you just polished to perfection!)

I hope that helps

I always thought buffing was actually removing the product.
And, yes, that did help if i understood your post correctly.

But everytime I have ever waxed my truck the hardest part of the whole process was getting the wax off. Having to vigourously move the towel around while applying pressure.
I'm kinda bummed now, what good is a PC if i'm still gonna have to do all the removal by hand, thats the hard part, isn't it?

Maybe I've been waxing my truck all wrong.
I would basically float the applicator over the surface until there was sufficient enough product, i'd let it dry, then remove it by applying pressure and moving the towel back and forth very fast.

Do I need to be putting pressure down when applying the wax?
Like working it into the paint?

If the answers to my questions above are all "yes" then I apologize If I seem like a *******...
I suppose I was taught all wrong.

a.k.a. Patrick · 02-23-06, 06:18

The hard part is getting the scratches and swirls out. Theres no way a hand job is as fast or productive as a machine (easy guys). You spend much more energy removing the scratches, while applying the products, then removing the product. the work isnt in removing, its in applying.
Buffing, to me, is what Im doing while removing the product. neither explanations are incorrect. But I refer to polishing, when Im "attemting to clear or make better"....
The reason you have had so much difficulty with removing waxes is, Im sure you tended to apply way too much,and what goes on, must come off.
Your removal technique is ok, just use as little as possible. Whatever your removing is actually waste, except what lubricates the pad for easier movement.
The only pressure needed is enough with which to manipulate movement.
Theres no dumbasses on Autopia, only the ones who dont ask questions and assume they no it all.....

Neothin · 02-23-06, 06:20

more than likely you're using too much product. Every time that I've had issues with product removal it has been caused by me being careless in application and putting too much onto the paint. #16 for example. The first couple of times I used this wax, I HATED it. It took nearly an hour to remove it from a 2 door. Then I tried using less and less product, and magically, removal became easier and easier. Now #16 wipes off as easy as UPP

Cliffnotes- try using less product to make removal easier

Neo62381 · 02-23-06, 07:25

Yeah, thinner is better, like the others stated, youre just gonna revome most of it off any way, and waxes are the easy stuff, wait untill you try an acrylic sealant, if you don't apply it so thin you can barely see it, it really is a PITA to get off!

a.k.a. Patrick · 02-23-06, 09:44

Temporary thread jack: Whats up with the "Neos"? lol

Neo62381 · 02-24-06, 08:47

I was here first!