Severe Swirls, Need Pro Work?

foxtrotter · 01-08-06, 07:57

I just bought the car. Previous owner only washed in machine car wash. Theres severe bug stain pits on the nose with severe swirls over the entire finish. On the hood PC w/ Yellow/IP and White/FPII. Used about an 1/8 or more of the IP on the hood. Swirls still remain, probably 60% are gone. My theory are 1.) My cutting pad is either too aggresive or not aggresive enough 2.) Im working the area to long 3.) The swirls are so severe they need professional work

Heres the pics

foxtrotter · 01-08-06, 08:03

B]These are right after w/ a coat of Gold Class Wax[/b]

foxtrotter · 01-08-06, 08:04

These are the next morning with the sun shining ;(

cgc2 · 01-08-06, 09:24

I dont know man, but I can certainly tell you I have run into that problem with a black vehicle I had to detail. With a PC, it turned into an 8 hr process for the exterior only, but I was able to remove move most of the swirls, light scratches & water spots.
Used a Orange Propel pad w/ a compound that as worked went from agressive to a fine polish.
I then moved to VM usinga Green Lt Propel pad, finishing with a Sealant.

I now have a rotary and am learning the proper technique, in the hopes next time one of these come to me and can become more efficient/proficient in the restoration of the finish.

foxtrotter · 01-08-06, 10:15

On the last pictures I didn't notice the little tiny dots until the next morning, I think those are just water deposits from the millions of beads that form with the morning dew. As for my bug pit marks on the nose, they are more noticeable now after i polished, they have a white color now, probably from the polish getting in there.

Mad iX · 01-08-06, 12:42

A few passes of IP should be able to remove the swirls, unless you have really hard paint (I'm not familiat with those cars). After each pass you should notice the major swirls being reduced. If not, then you're probably not being aggressive enough. If they are reduced but some new smaller swirls are appearing, then you're not working the IP enough.
It'll most likely take a fair bit of work, but I see no reason that the PC with IP won't be enough, unless like I said before, you have really hard paint. Still, I've managed to polish out ceramiclear with it, although it took some effort and 2-3 passes.

4830Deuce · 01-08-06, 01:51

it really looks liek there is still some prduct left over on the alst two shots! I mean you really ahve to take a step back and look at what your doing. Make sure you pads are clean, make sure your product is right, ect. U may be putting in more swirls then your taking out. Also if you have any doubt that you might not be working it long enough take just one panel i.e. hood and play around with your products and make sure your system works before moving on to do the rest of the car.

-Justin

David Fermani · 01-08-06, 02:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxtrotter

On the last pictures I didn't notice the little tiny dots until the next morning, I think those are just water deposits from the millions of beads that form with the morning dew. As for my bug pit marks on the nose, they are more noticeable now after i polished, they have a white color now, probably from the polish getting in there.

At 1st I was thinking that was bad acid rain damage. Thank god that's not the case.

Spilchy · 01-08-06, 03:00

If anything, you pointed out how picture taking can be so deceiving. People ooohhh and aaahhh over cars that still have defects, except at a different angle and lighting, look awesome - particularly the 8, 9, 10 shots and then the next morning shots.

You weren't using the wrong prodcuts necessarily. The IP isn't *that* aggressive. First, be sure to clay your paint. http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=14 You can try the Poorboys SSR 2.5 for a bit more bite. You want to use it with a cutting pad moving at a slow, overlapping pace with pressure for a few passes. Then ease up on the pressure for a few passes. Then allow the weight of the buffer to polish the surface for a few more passes. Do this until it almost clears out and before it dries. Buff off and examine. Work in 2 x 2 areas. Move to your FP and a polish pad. Work the 2 x 2 area with some pressure then just the weight of the buffer. Wipe off before it dries up.

The key is knowing your pads and polishes. Knowing how they break down and polish out.

Be sure to use clean pads. Don't be afraid to use multiple pads for each polish. Buff off with a soft microfiber.

It takes practice and an understanding that on some hard paints, the PC has it's limitations. That's why there is a cyclo and then the rotary.

Here is a video about using the rotary. But you can pick up some good tips about the PC too.

http://www.bettercarcare.com/article...leId=31&page=1

Or, you can check this out regarding the PC.

http://www.guidetodetailing.com/arti...p?articleId=47

foxtrotter · 01-08-06, 03:58

I did claybar that day, the car wasn't to bad, I found the clay to be most effective on the top of the bumper. That dirt wouldn't budge until i hit it with the clay.

As far as polishing I'm still not sure if its my procedure. The hood was worked for atleast an hour with the Yellow Wolfgang 6.5" pad and IP. I used every kind of pressure and movement that you guys said. The same goes with the white pad and FPII, except that I only made a few passes with that.
Maybe I'll give it another go, I was kind of hesitant to work it that long, I didn't want to burn through the clear. Any more input would be greatly appreciated.

MichaelM · 01-09-06, 02:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by foxtrotter

Maybe I'll give it another go, I was kind of hesitant to work it that long, I didn't want to burn through the clear.

I wouldn't worry about that too much with the PC.

From the pics it looks like the paint could use some rotary work.

foxtrotter · 01-09-06, 01:23

anyone else had experience with this kind of paint? I've heard that the corvette has hard paint, maybe this is the case.......its a 2000 Chevy Camaro.