Take a look at my process...

[leykias]

Hello all-

i'm been lurking around the forums for about 2 weeks reading up on how to use a pc.

i'm about to purchase a pc and some polishes....

pc 7424

Sonus pads

poorboy ssr 2.5, 2, 1 and EX-P sealant(maybe)

To make a long story short. Some idiot hit my car. Took it to a bodyshop to get it fixed. They washed my car WITHOUT asking me first. Now my awesome paint that I've so carefully tried to maintain has been marred. I felt like crying when i saw all the awesome swirl marks. Knowing that I spent all this time to take care of my car only to be undone in a day hurts. GREAT! ! ! !

anyways i was thinking of doing this:

-Claybar the car

-Use ssr 2.5
-ssr 2
-ssr 1
-EX-P Sealant

Here comes my question: I also have zaino z-2 and z-5

i was wondering if there is going to be a problem with the zaino adhesion to the EX-P sealant???? would that be a problem?

and am I missing anysteps to this rountine????


I will post up before and after pics.

-Steve

[leykias]

19 reads and not a single reply???? comm'on......


anyone?

[Amused]

in don't think you need SSR2 if you're getting 2.5. stepping down from 2.5 to 1 will do just fine.
if you want to use zaino, i would not recommend layering it on top of EX-P. I'd use it as a stand alone LSP. EX-P is a good sealant and a carnauba topper may add to the overall appearance if you choose.

[leykias]

thank you fujifast.!

sorry i'msince i'm new to the forum idunno, what does lsp mean?

[Lowejackson]

Last Step Product

[Pontman43]

Carefull with that new paint. Sounds like the marred paint was done with a rotary, most likely since body shops use a rotary on the paint before you pick it up. I wouldn't recomend doing any polishing, especially with 2.5 in the first month, trust me I learned the hard way the paint just seems too soft. I would also bet that SSR1 would get rid of those rotary marks, its always better to start with a less agressive product first. And no wax or sealant in the first month with new paint.

[Pontman43]

Also to the most addicting site online

[2000firebird]

i had the same problem with the body shop and my new paint. i waited about 2 months and took some ssr2. 5 to it and it turned out perfect

[Accumulator]

leykias- Welcome to Autopia!

Originally Posted by leykias

19 reads and not a single reply???? comm'on......anyone?

Heh heh, I'd rather have no replies than some bad advice I don't use the SSR line, so I'm sorta hesitant to reply myself.

I go both ways on this one- I'll leave it alone if it's OK, but sometimes I'll correct the paint while it's still sorta soft, especially if it has flaws that a) really bug me and/or b) might be a real pain when the paint reaches full hardness. The softest uncured paint I ever had (RM brand b/c) was too soft for Meg's #80 but I could still work it with other, even milder products. Most sorta-fresh paint isn't all *that* soft, but it's gonna depend on the shop/paint/how they mixed it.

Similar to Pontman's advice, except that I'd probably do it now:

I'd see if you can remove the marring with the SSR1 (I know, almost certainly too mild) and work down from it as needed. If you *do* have some extra soft paint, you don't want to hit it with something too harsh or you won't be able to fix it without a rotary.

And I'd use something known to be fresh-paint-safe for the first few months. My preference is Meg's #5 but their Deep Crystal #2 is commonly available at autoparts stores. I do *not*, BVTW, like 3M IHG, which is another well-known product for fresh paint. The Meg's stuff worked out much nicer for me (and yeah, I did side-by-side comparisons).

[leykias]

thanks for all the replies!!!!!

as to new paint.... it's not new....it's a MY04 NISSAN 350z and it wasn't caused by a rotary. It was caused by those monkey mechanics using their dirty towels....

::: AS A RESULT ::: the side panel of my car has so much swirls that it looks like there is a coat of haze under the sun.. It serious makes me disguisted everytime I look at my car.

i'm pretty sure the clearcoat is insanely soft as i have tons of tiny little rockchips on the front bumper......as for the scratches.....idunno how deep it is but if i run my fingernail on it...i cannot feel any grooves whatsoever.

i hate all dealerships and mechanic shops.....they are not careful about the cars at all

for example - i had a nail removed from a tire shop. Couple days later i washed my car, i find that my two of my rims look like it's been rubbed on concrete [along the edge where the tire and rim meet].

not really visible from ten feet away.....but I KNOW ITS: THERE!!!!!!!

ARGH!!!!!!!! i'm so frustrated!!!!!


OH --- ONE MORE QUESTION --- i will be using the pc in a garage.....and my garage doesn't have the proper lighting to see the swirlmarks......can anyone suggest a light that will show all defections in the clearcoat???


I will post before/after pics ....when i'm done ..... =)

THANK YOU GUYS!!!!!


-Steve

[animes2k]

see about picking up some halogen shop lights from Sears or Lowe's, Home Despot, whatever... These are great for picking out defects, but they're a little hot and suck down some electricity.

Also, they may not show the hologramming effect as well as unfiltered sunlight, but they will show marring pretty well. It's good to also have a spot light like a 100W unshielded regular light bulb mounted on the ceiling of the garage to pick out different defects or for a different perspective on the paint.

I'm going to see about installing some fluorescent tube lighting in the garage soon, myself, to supplement the other light sources I have (those I noted above).

Good luck in your repair. Sadly this happens often. Any time I take a car in for service of any kind I explicitly indicate that no washing is to be done at all and even leave a note on the dash. Also, with a car like that (or like mine) I note the mileage when I drop it off