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Old 09-01-05, 06:55   #13 (permalink)
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There are times when claying before polishing does not make economic sense:

1. Heavy oxidation -- In this case I go straight to polish because the oxidized paint is going to ruin the clay and you still need to polish.

2. Heavy filth -- In this case, I will go over the paint with a pre-wax cleaner first to get that heavy layer of grunge off. Then I hit it with clay to get the paint perfectly smooth.

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Old 09-03-05, 02:06   #14 (permalink)
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I would say it's not necessarily required to clay everytime before you polish. I would suggest spot-claying (mostly horizontal surfaces, the front bumper and the rear bumper) as you see fit.
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Old 09-06-05, 04:33   #15 (permalink)
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Old 02-05-06, 07:02   #16 (permalink)
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I was doing some research and came across this thread after the fact.

Where I now live, claying is necessary 99% of the time as rust contamination is rampant here near the ocean. Even compounding doesn't get all the rust out (unless you get crazy with twisted wool). I've only detailed one vehicle without substantail rust here in San Diego. When I lived away from the ocean near Sacramento, claying was only necessary 80% of time IMO. You have to get the rust out.
 
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Old 02-05-06, 07:38   #17 (permalink)
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It is useful, but it isn't always necessary. As long as you do not have pronounced particles, you could skip that step. The paint cleaning and polishing process is the vital step IMO into getting a clear, clean and deep surface before the wax or synthetic lsp.
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Old 02-06-06, 08:03   #18 (permalink)
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What I do is clay an area likely to be contaminated, such as the rocker panels, lower doors, or behind the wheelwells. See what comes off and evaluate the need for further claying.

RAG- I'd probably look into a decontamination system in your case. See if the acidic step can burn out enough of the ferrous contamination to keep it from coming back so soon. Oh, and clay while the acidic step is dwelling. I was recently advised that one can use a bug sponge while the acidic stuff is dwelling, but I always worry that those things will mar the paint.
 
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Old 02-06-06, 06:07   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
What I do is clay an area likely to be contaminated, such as the rocker panels, lower doors, or behind the wheelwells. See what comes off and evaluate the need for further claying.
.
You'd be surprised how much contamination is on the front end of your vehicle too from the exhaust fumes caused by cars in front of you.
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Old 02-06-06, 11:31   #20 (permalink)
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My car don't get that dirty, garage queen and only gets driven on a car club event once every 2 - 4 weeks
 
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Old 02-06-06, 11:59   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Fermani
You'd be surprised how much contamination is on the front end of your vehicle too from the exhaust fumes caused by cars in front of you.
That's expected.
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Old 02-07-06, 07:19   #22 (permalink)
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It's funny, but I don't get as much contamination there as in the areas I mentioned. Maybe because I stay farther back than most people do Now bugs in the warmer weather are another story...I clay them off at every wash.
 
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Old 02-07-06, 10:16   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
It's funny, but I don't get as much contamination there as in the areas I mentioned. Maybe because I stay farther back than most people do Now bugs in the warmer weather are another story...I clay them off at every wash.
Don't remind me... I HATE bugs.
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Old 02-07-06, 06:07   #24 (permalink)
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My own cars are okay relative to the car of any new client I get. The rust contamination here is CRAZY. I get maybe one or two uses out of a bar before I have to throw it away because they start to scratch the heck out of the paint. I've been charging most of my clients an extra $30 ($60 total) for the clay step because the rust is so bad - I usually show them a clean bar, take 4 or 5 strokes across their paint, and then show them the now orange bar from rust - they usually don't complain when they see and feel it. After a few strocks it sounds like I'm rubbing sand paper across the paint.

Coincidentally, I just learned how to use my camera phone and upload pictures. The pictures below of clay were from my detail today on a 740i - the amount of rust I pulled out was on par for a car around here that I've never detailed before. Fells like 4000 grit sandpaper before claying - seriously. Makes for a fantastic before and after turnaround however

Here is a pic of my clay before starting the trunk



I had to re-knead the clay after only about 4 or 5 strokes on the trunk becuase I was pulling so much rust off:
 
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