new paint-need help on finish

7echo · 08-21-05, 07:54

I have read alot of information here but can't quite find my answer. I bartered with a friend and got a new paint job on an old truck. Part of the deal is I do all the finish after the spraying. So, I need to know what to do to remove some of the peel and get to a shine so I can wax. It is single stage white marine paint. I tried FI-II with a yellow foam pad on my PC. Not much happening. Painter said that I need something strong, a 'cutter'. Says the paint is thick and I can not ruin it. So I get some PI-III RC, and used same pads and PC. Somethings happening, but not much. Painter says I need something more agressive. So, where from here? Will the PI-III work better with a harder pad? Do I need a more abrasive cutter? Any thoughts on abrasives, pad options, and process will be helpful. This is not by any means a show truck, but I am willing to put in the sweat equity to get a decent finish.
Thanks in advance,
Dave

JBM · 08-21-05, 08:22

I talked to a painted a few months ago about how they knock down OP when they paint.

I aksed how many times do you step down when you wetsand.

He replyed that he hits it with 1500, and then 3000, buffs it with a wool pad via rotary and a compound.

He stopped there, but much more would need to be done after the wool pad for it to be worthy of posting a pic here.

Thats pretty much the only way i have ever heard of reducing the OP in paint though, wetsanding.

papi_jay · 08-21-05, 08:37

PERFECT-IT III EXTRA CUT RUBBING COMPOUND 05936 with a twisted wool pad , followed by PERFECT-IT III RUBBING COMPOUND 05933 and a knitted wool .
Then move up to your yellow pad ( after washing and drying car ) and use PERFECT-IT III MACHINE GLAZE 05937 to work out the compounding swirls and holograms and such .
Then another pass with your green pad
Then your favorite hand glaze - preferable PI-III hand glaze to allow paint to finish curing .
Maybe Meg's #5 after 2-3 weeks in the sun would be safe also .