06-21-05, 02:06
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#1 (permalink)
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Asonyexec is offline
Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: los angeles Posts: 350 | Rotary Pros I need UR advice Like many here I started with and have been using my faithful PC DA polisher for about 8 months now and I now feel ready to take the leap to a rotary polisher.
In my adult years I've been afraid of their power and ease at which you can ruin paint using a rotary. Looking back as a teenager I used to rent a rotary from a local place and polish out my parent's cars with out one incident of paint marring and I didn't even know what I was doing back then. One wool pad for 3 different products LOL. I think I did send a wiper blade flying one time.
Anywho onto my questions to help in my decision making.
1. which rotary do you all recommend for light use (only used on personal car not as a profession)?
2. I saw a brand called chicago electic selling from $29 - $69 is this a good brand? is there a better brand at lets say a sears or home depot?
3. with my DA polisher I use foam pads, what is used with a rotary?
4. do most rotaries come with the velcro backing plate or is that something seperate?
5. in your opinion, if im just polishing my own car, do u think it's wise to spend money on a rotary? (im not displeased with the DA i only think i can get better & faster results with the rotary)
Sorry for all the questions but I really respect the info on this BB and am interested in your opinion(s).
Thx
Armand | |
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06-21-05, 02:10
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#2 (permalink)
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scottabir is offline
Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Grand Rapids,michigan Posts: 1,483 | 1) fein or metabo for lightweight but $$
2) people say they are very good workhorses
3)Yes you can use the same pads for the rotary as the pc
4) not usually-you probably will need to buy a backing plate from somewhere.
5)absolutly yes it is worth it if you are obsesive about the finish and want to remove stuff the D/A cant.
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2003 Mazda 6S black
Do what you love and the money will follow
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06-21-05, 03:38
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#3 (permalink)
| | I drive a station wagon!
J.J. is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: OH Posts: 1,125 | I have the Chicago E. rotary from HF. I have yet to use it because I'm waiting on the 4.75 inch backing plate from Autogeek. Buying and using this backing plate will allow you to use the same pads. If I had the money, I would have bought the Metabo (very nice looking machine). But, because I detail as a hobby, the CE rotary is perfect for me. If it only last a year, who cares!
JJ
__________________ MZ3 Hatch Zoom - Zoom | |
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06-23-05, 04:31
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#4 (permalink)
| | Registered User
jakes29 is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 54 | I bought the CE rotary about 6 months ago and love it. It is a great tool for the money. I would recommend it highly.
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06-23-05, 05:15
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#5 (permalink)
| | Man with the MagicTouch.
magictouch24 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Braintree, MA Posts: 99 | I have a DeWalt DW849 rotary, which I highly recommend to professionals, but since it is more expensive and not what you need the Makita (can't remember the model #) is the only other machine I can recommend. It is lightweight and less expensive I believe. People seem to have good experiences with the CE, though.
Personally, I know that if I was just doing my car, I'd be using a DA only. I only have a rotary because I run a business and it is faster and more effective. I don't know what kind of condition your car is in though. | |
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06-23-05, 06:03
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#6 (permalink)
| | Up Theyah for the Summah
themightytimmah is offline
Join Date: May 2005 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 3,168 | I've got a Makita that I spent 200 on, its a nice machine, but overkill for the hobbyist. Pick up a 4.75" or 5" rotary backing plate, and you can continue to use your PC pads with it. The 6" pads are a little easier to control/learn with than 8.5" pads. I am somewhat experienced with a rotary, and I still use 6" pads for all my finishing/foam pad work (use 7.5" wool pads, and love em). The CE is plenty of machine for what you're going to use it for. Its definetly a good machine to learn, not only is it more powerful than a PC, it is MUCH more enjoyable to work with, once you get over your fear of the machine. As long as you keep it to foam pads, and go orange or lighter cut, and keep the RPMs under 1750, you don't have to worry about burning the paint. I did a beat Toyota pickup today, with a crappy Maaco job, and used a wool pad on it. Came out great. Its not a machine to fear, but rather one to respect. Respect it, learn it, and you will enjoy it  .
P.S. I use it on my own car, cause I feel I can burnish the paint better than via Cyclo.
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Once you buff black, you never go back
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06-23-05, 09:27
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#7 (permalink)
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Asonyexec is offline
Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: los angeles Posts: 350 | Thanks for the info. My real reason for jumping up from the PC DA to a full rotary is speed. I just finished applying PB SSR2 then the PB paint polish then a coat of wax and I was beat....not the young man I once was LOL. Not to mention the amount of time it all took.
My paint is in real good condition and go through the entire 3 step process about once every 3 months but like i said I dont like breaking it up into 2 days and I don't like taking 3-4 hours from wash to wax.
I have looked at the Mikitas and DeWalts and find them a bit pricey for what Im looking to do. To my surprise and on this BB I came across the Chicago Electric name, looked at them on the harbor freight page and thought for under $70 i can get a rotary -- that was more like it. Im just a weekend (quarterly) warrior and don't detail cars for a living so Im thinking I don't need one of those machines that can take a real pounding.
I was just thinking that all the money i spent on pads for my PC would be a waste but from what Im hearing I can still use the same pads with a rotary.
QUESTION
If I go with the rotary what would you suggest I purchase at the same time? Im guessing I would need a new backing plate, I have the yellow w/velcro backing plate for my PC but dont know if I can interchange that backing plate between machines. I don't think Im going to go with wool pads just yet, I really dont deal with cars (favors for family members) that are in that bad a condtion and like i said i dont do this professionaly.
Thanks again | |
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06-23-05, 10:34
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#8 (permalink)
| | Registered User
scottabir is offline
Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Grand Rapids,michigan Posts: 1,483 | you will need a backing plate that has a female 5/8-11 thread. Foam pads will be just fine for you to do a few cars occasionally with. THe PC pads you have will work for the rotary as well. you just need a new backing plate.
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2003 Mazda 6S black
Do what you love and the money will follow
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06-24-05, 01:47
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#9 (permalink)
| | Kayak detailer
White95Max is offline
Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Stevens Point, WI Posts: 6,881 | I have a Chicago Electric rotary from Harbor Freight. I've had 0 problems with it, so I'm satisfied. It was the best $30 I've ever spent!
__________________ Paul...
'99 Mazda Protege LX 5spd, highlight silver - AIO/UPP/UPPSx3/#16
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06-24-05, 02:43
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#10 (permalink)
| | Registered User
jr_mints is offline
Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: The Woodlands, TX Posts: 36 | What is the model number on that CE rotary from Harbor Freight? | |
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06-24-05, 02:53
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#11 (permalink)
| | Registered User
Carl Anderson is offline
Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 423 | If your paint is in good condition I'm not sure a rotary will help you. It certainly isn't easier to work with, and I find it very difficult to avoid splatter. I just used my Makita to remove a paint defect from the hood of my car. I then switched to my PC to do a final polish and apply a sealant. My first impression was how easy the PC is compared to the rotary. Unless you have paint defects that are taking you forever to remove, I would recomment staying with the PC only. | |
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06-24-05, 03:47
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#12 (permalink)
| | OCDetailer Tuna
Shiny Lil Detlr is offline
Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Lansing, MI, USA Posts: 2,847 | Quote: |
Originally Posted by Carl Anderson If your paint is in good condition I'm not sure a rotary will help you. It certainly isn't easier to work with, and I find it very difficult to avoid splatter. I just used my Makita to remove a paint defect from the hood of my car. I then switched to my PC to do a final polish and apply a sealant. My first impression was how easy the PC is compared to the rotary. Unless you have paint defects that are taking you forever to remove, I would recomment staying with the PC only. | Sounds like you just need a bit more time with the PC learning proper "buffer" technique. Once you can perfect your use of that, the rotary will become much eaiser. I just ordered my CE rotary and I'll be anxious to see what I can do with it; from what I've gathered here though I doubt it will be much of a problem.  | |
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