Cobra Wet Sand Gone Wrong: Will PC + SSR Fix

[2JZFAN]

Long story short there's a paint shop near where I work, I've got a new bumper and hood going on so they decided to bring the rest of the paint out to match easier and better. Long story short it didn't turn out very well, they're not going to paint the car and I didn't pay for this crap.

I've been a member on here for a while, a lurker for even longer. This time I'm going to take serious detailing into my own hands and get a rotary. I need opinions and information from the pros. Please point me in the right direction, approve or disapprove my plan, and give me your best opinions.

I've got a nice background in detailing, but nothing serious, nothing with a rotary. I know a good amount about products and combinations.. or so I'd like to believe. First here are the pictures of the car's current status:









Now after looking at these picture's the car doesn't seem so bad. I've used Scratch-X by hand and polished and waxed all by hand topping with NXT. The problem is some of the deeper scratches are still visible in daylight. These pictures were taken in late afternoon. You don't even want to see the car in florescent lighting or when headlights hit it.

I was thinking SR3 w/proper pad, and a rotary.. I mean that's how bad it is.. It's a black car, I'm embarrassed to take it to my good painter with it looking like this now. I need to handle these swirls and scratches now so I can take it to paint. Please help guys..

I'll do less talk and more listen. What do you think I need, and where should I begin? I like what SSR2.5 is doing for people but I believe I may need SR3.. I like what VM is doing for black Ford's, and after that I have no clue.. so please help.

[MongooseGA]

I haven't had to buff out sanding marks before. I'd say just go ahead and try different things. If it doesn't work, you're going to paint anyway.

[Mad iX]

It doesn't look too bad from what I can see.
Try a PC with SSR2.5 and light cutting or polishing pad. You may have to use several applications but it should come out. SSR3 and cutting pad should be as extreme as you need to get.

[2JZFAN]

Originally posted by MongooseGA
I haven't had to buff out sanding marks before. I'd say just go ahead and try different things. If it doesn't work, you're going to paint anyway.

Well I'm going to paint but I wasn't planning on the whole car. At the most besides the new bumper and hood I was going to also do the trunk along with a new wing which would get rid of my taillight they sanded to death.

Now for the one's that will be seen around the world. So here goes: Nighttime pics with flash!!!


WARNING!! NEVER TAKE NIGHT PICS OF BLACK VEHICLES WITH FLASH !!


I'm sure I can take care of that..


How do I get in there? And with what?


taillight the killed, trunk I think I can fix.


damn. how do I get all that?


Yeah it just got worse didn't it. Now let me remind you, Scratch-X made this better.. ie. it was worse before. So being scratch-x by hand improved so much, I'm sure SR3 with a buffer will take it over the top and bring back the paint.. HELP!

Anyone know a good local detailer?

[2JZFAN]

Originally posted by Mad iX
It doesn't look too bad from what I can see.
Try a PC with SSR2.5 and light cutting or polishing pad. You may have to use several applications but it should come out. SSR3 and cutting pad should be as extreme as you need to get.

I know night pics on black make things look worse then they really are.. but uh.. you wanna edit your post..?

[6']['9]

id go with some 3m RC by hand a couple of times and it should take care of it if you do it enough. If that sanding mark doesnt come out you can try spot wetsanding it with something like 2500 or 3000 grit then buff it out by hand. Its not easy to do it by hand but it can be done. But if you have a rotory or pc you can still do the 3m then follow with something like IP or OCP then FP or FPII AIO and then finish with what ever you want. good luck

[themightytimmah]

I'd go for Mezerna Powergloss via PC and orange pad, follow up with SSR1 or FPII with a white pad. I personally feel that PG is light years ahead of SSR3, in terms of marring left behind after compounding.

If those are 2000 grit marks, the PC/PG combo should take them out quite well. As far as the one inside the license plate frame , try a rotary, keep the speed VERY slow and be careful. If you're not comfortable with a rotary, which is understandable (espicially on a black car), try ScratchX by hand, followed by SSR2 by hand. It wont be perfect, but it'll be an improvement, without the risk of totally messing up that a rotary entails.

Also, on a daily driven black car like that, glazes can be a lifesaver. They wil make alot of the minor marring less noticeable. I'm a Mezerna fan, so I like LTG, but VM or RMG should also give you a much deeper and better looking finish. Follow up with Souveran, Trade Secret, or FK1 Pink (best bang for the buck wax, IMHO), and it'll look amazing out of direct sunlight, and better in sunlight.

[ScubaStevo]

I've gotten worse out with my PC and some SSR2.5 on a LC cutting pad. Don't worry, there is light at the end of the tunnel.

[2JZFAN]

Ok guys well I'm waiting on a check from a customer but I think I know what I'm going to do. After taking your posts into consideration and searching some more I've decided on the following course of action..

Purchase PC along with the following:

Wash: Menzerna Auto Shampoo, or PW Super Slick & Suds (for smoother finish?)
Clay: Clay Magic (Fine/Blue?) or (Medium/Red?)
Polish: I'm not exactly sure on this step but I like what I see with Menzerna and black ford's. So I was thinking:

MPG w/SFX-1 @ ?? Spd ?? backing
MIP w/SFX-2 @ ?? Spd ?? backing
FPII w/SFX-3 @ ?? Spd ?? backing OR PO85RD SFX-3 ? @ ?? Spd ?? backing

Glaze: Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze ?? pad or hand ?? if pad then which ??
LSP: FMJ w/MF applicator SYN OR Souveran CARNUBA either by hand

OR

PW SSS
CM Blue
MPG
MIP
FPII
PO85RD
RMG
Souveran

Questions:

1.) For drying after wash use Micropak Waffle Weave 24" MF ?
2.) Do we still dawn wash our cars before clay or is a good wash enough ?
3.) What is best between polish apps, hand with MF or machine with bonnet MF to remove, or other ?
4.) Which backing plates for SFX pads ?
5.) What other pads then SFX or LC ?
6.) Why do people use PO85RD instead of FPII on non-ceramiclear cars? Is it that much better of a polish?
7.) Where can I find good prices? I like PakShak, Autopia for the PC, and ProperAutoCare for Menzerna ??

Is that everything? I think I saw the speed somewhere on here, but I'll check later i'm on my way to work. Anything with a ? is somewhere i'd like opinion or experience.

The two big things I'm worrying about it removing the damage, and achieving a deeper wetter longer lasting look. I think the products I've seleted will achieve such results. Let me know your thought and opinions..

[Knockwurst]

Yikes! What a mess! Relax . . . it’s not that bad. Any Autopians living in your area? Here’s a resource that will make your life a WHOLE lot easier. Don’t go overboard with the product list either . . . the products are just as important as knowing how to use them. Good luck

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

[Jimmy Buffit]

Have you cosidered finding a local pro detailer who can assist in evaluating (and correcting) the situation? For the money that you are preparing to spend... I'd at least get a second opinion.

Also, many potential (and widely available) solutions from 3M, Meguiar's, etc seem to be overlooked...

I'd try to obtain a wider/broader perspective.

Jim

[ebpcivicsi]

Originally posted by Jimmy Buffit
Have you cosidered finding a local pro detailer who can assist in evaluating (and correcting) the situation? For the money that you are preparing to spend... I'd at least get a second opinion.

Also, many potential (and widely available) solutions from 3M, Meguiar's, etc seem to be overlooked...

I'd try to obtain a wider/broader perspective.

Jim

I couldn't agree more. Find someone with referances who is passionate about paint care and have them remove the marks. I don't even think that it would be *that* expensive.

FWIW, if I was doing the car I would go straight to Meguiars compound power cleaner with a cutting pad on the rotary, follow up with DACP/final polish(PC) and LSP of your choice. Done.

For the rear I would remove the emblems in order to gain better access.

For the tight spots look into this kit. You get two wool pads, one foam polishing pad, one foam finishing pad, a BP, and an adapter for the PC.