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Old 03-27-05, 11:04   #1 (permalink)
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Unhappy Not seeing expected results from PB's SSR

Today is a nice day so I thought I'd give the car a QEW wash and then try out my SSR 1 and 2.5 with the PC on my 2000 VW GTI (metallic orange). Paint is in good shape but lots of fine swirls.

So I washed, taped off half the hood, clayed the passenger side and washed it again.

1. Set to work with SSR 1 and an LC white pad. Increased speed from 2-5. Didn't see any noticable change.

2. Bumped it up to SSR 2.5 on a new LC white pad. Hmmm, no difference again.

3. Repeated the 2.5 with some pressure. No change.

4. SSR 1 once again. Getting pretty disappointed.

5. Pull of the tape. Can I see where I polished? Nope.

What am I doing wrong? Is my paint unusually hard? I never really saw the SSR "dust" - maybe I'm using too much product or not working it long enough? I did sections 2' x 2' and worked it for 2-3 minutes each.

Thanks for any advice.
 
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Old 03-27-05, 11:21   #2 (permalink)
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After claying



After using SSR 1



After using SSR 2.5



This is a shot of the middle of the hood. I was expecting to see swirls on one side, none on the other...



Is the SSR dusted here?

 
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Old 03-27-05, 11:27   #3 (permalink)
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Maybe change to a orange cutting pad. I havent had a chance to try my winter purchase of SSR's yet...but I have heard nothing but good things.

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Old 03-27-05, 11:28   #4 (permalink)
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I'm not familiar with LC pads so I don't know where the white falls in aggreesiveness . Try working the product longer and if your trying to get rid of swirls try a light cut pad . You might have to do a second application , don't give up so easy .

What works for me as far as product on pad , about 3 dime size dots on the pad , try not to load to much on the pad . Work it till it dusts then go over it with a microfiber towel . Don't be afraid to run the PC on 6 you might like the results. Good luck and post how you make out .
 
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Old 03-27-05, 11:35   #5 (permalink)
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White LC pad is a polishing pad. Yes, I guess I'll try an orange cutting pad next. I just didn't want to get too agressive on my first use of the SSRs. Plus, I have no money for one right now after spending a small forune on what I currently have...

Sounds as though I'm using the right amount of product. How long should it take to dust?
 
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Old 03-27-05, 11:35   #6 (permalink)
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I had some very good results with SSR2.5 on a green Propel light-cut pad yesterday. I removed some holograms and LOTS of fine swirls from black paint. I used the PC on 5 and made two passes.
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Old 03-27-05, 02:26   #7 (permalink)
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I've had great results with SSR2.5. I wonder if this is a process thing as I usually can get most or all of my swirls out with this product.

I do suggest you try an agressive pad and use a smaller amount of product if that is a factor. I find it breaks down easier that way.
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Old 03-27-05, 02:58   #8 (permalink)
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Work the product till it begins to dust, then check the area that you did and see if you have to go over it again. Some times it will require more than one pass to acheive the results you want
Don't be afraid to crank your PC up to 6. (I was in the beginning) but the difference is amazing.

Good Luck
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Old 03-27-05, 03:06   #9 (permalink)
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the SSR 2.5 and a polishing pad with a PC is NOT an agressive combo IMO. i would definately go to a cutting pad with the 2.5 then go to 1 with a polishing pad. also.. waht kind of towels are you using to remove the polish?

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Old 03-27-05, 04:04   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by White95Max
I had some very good results with SSR2.5 on a green Propel light-cut pad yesterday. I removed some holograms and LOTS of fine swirls from black paint. I used the PC on 5 and made two passes.
Whitemax..I used the same combo this weekend and actually got some hazing from the SSR 2.5. Did you run into the same prob??? When you say two passes can you explain that alittle more?? I was wondering how much I should be working this product in. I know it says to use until it dusts.
 
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Old 03-27-05, 04:23   #11 (permalink)
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Hazing is either from using a cutting pad, not working the product long enough, or working it too long and causing dry buffing marring.

When removing defects i like to work the product on 4 1/2 for a little while. This lets me cut it a little longer before it dries out.

Then once i "feel" it is starting to break down i lighten up alittle with my pressure-direct pressure onto the paint surface, and bump it up to about 5.5, once i see little bits of dust i stop, and wipe off.

If you use a wet pad, or over prime it, it will affect how the product breaks down, and could leave marring, makes it harder to wipe off ect.

On my first attempt at decent swirl removal i will place a good sized "X" on the pad of product.

If i have removed 80% of the problems with one pass, i will go over it again, but will only place an "/" on the pad.

If after one pass i have only removed approx. 50% of the problems i will stick with the "X" on the pad.

When using a LC orange pad and SSR 2.5- DACP you dont see any results, something is wrong, or you have hard paint.

For a very badly neglected finish, i did DACP /w LC ornage pad x3, and that got 95% of the crap.
 
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Old 03-27-05, 04:39   #12 (permalink)
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I have found that SSR2.5 and LC Yellow Cut pad works wonders against those pesky swirls via PC. Left a little hazing, but easy removed the haze by following up with a finer polish such as Menz FPII. Or in your case, follow up with SSR1 with a white polishing pad.
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