Hazing is either from using a cutting pad, not working the product long enough, or working it too long and causing dry buffing marring.
When removing defects i like to work the product on 4 1/2 for a little while. This lets me cut it a little longer before it dries out.
Then once i "feel" it is starting to break down i lighten up alittle with my pressure-direct pressure onto the paint surface, and bump it up to about 5.5, once i see little bits of dust i stop, and wipe off.
If you use a wet pad, or over prime it, it will affect how the product breaks down, and could leave marring, makes it harder to wipe off ect.
On my first attempt at decent swirl removal i will place a good sized "X" on the pad of product.
If i have removed 80% of the problems with one pass, i will go over it again, but will only place an "/" on the pad.
If after one pass i have only removed approx. 50% of the problems i will stick with the "X" on the pad.
When using a LC orange pad and SSR 2.5-
DACP you dont see any results, something is wrong, or you have hard paint.
For a very badly neglected finish, i did
DACP /w LC ornage pad x3, and that got 95% of the crap.