anyone else have a little trouble with the 105 205 combo?

[the_invisible]

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Heh heh, I've been slammed for suggesting that *UC and M105 on orange LC pads* don't finish out well enough to leave things ready-to-wax

I was literally harassed by a Meguiar's associate for saying such things as PlastX headlight repair kit not finishing to to the headlights full potential, which many people here agree.

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

And I gotta agree with you about the M205 "holos". A lot of what I was seeing as holos from 205 were, in fact, "substances" (not gonna use the "filling" word) left behind by 205. There were some holos, yes, but the 205 does leave behind a whitish residue that, when very little of it remains on the paint, can give you major holo effects.

I can attest to that. I was freaked out at first when my DA + #205 + Gray finishing pad was creating some faint holograms.

Notice that M205 is effectively called "Ultra Finishing Polish" ?

To my limited knowledge, Meguiar's uses the word "Polish" to refer to glazes or polishing oil. This explains M205's high oil content.

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

Even though you followed the directions to the letter, there are some different opinions on whether or not you should lighten the pressure on the last few passes. With a rotary, I do it just like you did. However, guys like gmblack3a have said that if you're using 205 with a DA, you should keep the same firm pressure all the way til you're done. I just did the wife's Sequoia using a PC, and did the firm pressure til done routine. It finished out quite nicely.

I usually lighten up the rotary in the last few passes along with lower machine speed at 900rpm. Honestly, the difference is hard to notice, even on a black car with medium-hardness paint. That seems to be a characteristic of the non-diminishing abrasives. I think continually working in M205 can be counterproductive. Because the abrasives do not diminish, the longer you work it in (even at lower speeds) you are diminishing the polishing oils while the abrasives remain the same size. That can undo all the corrections previously performed.

[Leadfootluke]

Good to know. I'll try that when I do my first panel. Just tested a small area last night.

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by SuperBee364

.. guys like gmblack3a have said that if you're using 205 with a DA, you should keep the same firm pressure all the way til you're done. I just did the wife's Sequoia using a PC, and did the firm pressure til done routine. It finished out quite nicely.

Same here, pressure on all the passes.

Originally Posted by the_invisible

I was freaked out at first when my DA + #205 + Gray finishing pad was creating some faint holograms.

Probably a perfect example of the oils leavng psuedo-holograms.

To my limited knowledge, Meguiar's uses the word "Polish" to refer to glazes or polishing oil...

Oh, just get me going on the "inventive" ways that Meguiar's uses various words

[Leadfootluke]

Thought I would bump this yet again [Very helpful thread]

Low humidity, 65* in the garage.

I did my hood today, no pictures [sorry!]. KBM of priming the 4" cyan pad on my 7424xp polisher with M105, followed by a quick spreading of the product on speed 3 on the area [tried to keep it small]. At speed 6, Firm Pressure on the first 4+ passes and then lighter pressure on the finishing passes. The product came off extremely easy. Followed with KBM primed 4" Tangerine with M205, spread on speed 3, and then speed 6 with firm pressure throughout the passes. Wiped down when finished [also easy]. When the hood was completed, wiped down with 50% IPA. Then wiped the hood with Klasse AIO before applying the LSP. I will have daylight to view the full results tomorrow.

Any advice or correction to my procedures before I continue on to the next panel?

Also, after wiping down and checking the results of the M105/cyan, can I continue to make effective passes with the M105 to further the results, or is there a point where M105 cannot cut any further [maybe the point that I don't want it to cut any further]?

Thanks!

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by Leadfootluke

Any advice or correction to my procedures before I continue on to the next panel?

While I'd be hesitant to change what seems to be working....

I wouldn't spread the M105. Not at all. It tends to flash off too quickly whenever I do that, limiting the effective working time.

Also, after wiping down and checking the results of the M105/cyan, can I continue to make effective passes with the M105 to further the results, or is there a point where M105 cannot cut any further [maybe the point that I don't want it to cut any further]?

It will always cut, but once the oils/etc. dry/flash things'll get problematic.

Even when you buff it off it will still cut! (Yeah, that's a warning )

So you can just keep re-M105ing an area until you cut all the way down to primer

But IMO the best way to do it is to stop and clean/reprime/reload the pad frequently.

Reactivating the dried-up M105 with distilled water or QD so it can keep cutting can lead to problems...so yeah, I'm mentioning it, but I'm also repeating my "don't try this at home, kids!" caveat.

[Leadfootluke]

Sounds good. I'll post up my results in a bit.

Thank you!

[Cholleman]

Originally Posted by Accumulator

While I'd be hesitant to change what seems to be working....

I wouldn't spread the M105. Not at all. It tends to flash off too quickly whenever I do that, limiting the effective working time.



It will always cut, but once the oils/etc. dry/flash things'll get problematic.

Even when you buff it off it will still cut! (Yeah, that's a warning )

So you can just keep re-M105ing an area until you cut all the way down to primer

But IMO the best way to do it is to stop and clean/reprime/reload the pad frequently.

Reactivating the dried-up M105 with distilled water or QD so it can keep cutting can lead to problems...so yeah, I'm mentioning it, but I'm also repeating my "don't try this at home, kids!" caveat.

so when polishing with 105, does it become translucent and that's a good reference for wiping off the excess and checking work, or do you just stop after a certain number of passes?

[Accumulator]

Originally Posted by Cholleman

so when polishing with 105, does it become translucent and that's a good reference for wiping off the excess and checking work, or do you just stop after a certain number of passes?

I stop after a given number of passes/period of time or when it feels/looks like it's time to quit (primarily when I work it longer than usual).

IME it doesn't change appearance-wise in an obvious way that you can use for a gauge (that is, not like #80) and that last bit I mentioned sorta comes with experience rather than being a true visual cue..."eh..looks like I'd better quit before I over-work it.."