anyone else have a little trouble with the 105 205 combo? - Page 2

SuperBee364 · 10-25-09, 10:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

I think that, in most cases, any deficiencies are so minor that people have to see the (possible) improvement before they'll realize that it *can* get better.

This kinda gets into the "is there a problem if you don't *see* a problem?" territory..

Heh heh, I've been slammed for suggesting that *UC and M105 on orange LC pads* don't finish out well enough to leave things ready-to-wax

Very true... As long as a finish has no visible marring and no holos, it could be considered "LSP ready", really. The acceptable gloss level always varies according to time available and dollars paid.

But for sure... paint can be defect-free (which is my definition of "LSP ready") without being maxed out on the gloss scale.

cjbigcog · 10-25-09, 12:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

Most "hologramming" from M205 is just residual polishing oils. These can be *really* tough to get out/off of some paints, and I mean *REALLY*. IPA wipes don't always do it (at least not the first three or four) but TOL's PrepWash is pretty effective.

I just took a look at TOL's website and didn't see PrepWash. Perhaps I missed it.
I'll be using 205 for the first time soon, so I want to be prepared for removing the oils. Any other products that I should take a look at? Would a warm water wash with Dawn work, or is this considered a no-no?

Turbocress · 10-25-09, 01:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

I'd try working smaller areas and using less product *after* priming the pad properly. That priming does put a lot of product in the pad, but not so much of it ends up on the paint at any one time if you do this properly (yeah, there's a bit of a learning curve).

Don't overwork the M105; no spreading, not too big an area.

When buffing it off, a little spritz of #34 can help reduce the micromarring and make removal easier.

Gotta be careful doing that as replacing the M105's lubricating oils with the QD can lead to increased-cut/hazing issues. Except for cases where I'm trying to *really* get aggressive, I've generally gotten away from doing that in favor of properly priming the pad and cleaning/reloading the pad frequently.

If inspecting with the SunGun in a dark room, then yeah..I see the hazing, but it oughta be nearly invisible under normal conditions (or even truly *invisible*).

Any such micromarring should be hologram-light, anything really nasty is probably from overworking the product and buffing off the residue incorrectly/too aggressively.

Still, while you work on your technique you oughta take some comfort in the idea that hey, it's an aggressive compound and such stuff simply cuts paint. It's the trade-off you put up with in exchange for the quick correction.

Or...the paint is just really soft relative to the M105.

As long as you're using a DA as opposed to a rotary, any "holograms" are either micromarring from the M105 or oils from the M205...unless you're working on some *REALLY* soft paint or doing something weirdly wrong.

Most "hologramming" from M205 is just residual polishing oils. These can be *really* tough to get out/off of some paints, and I mean *REALLY*. IPA wipes don't always do it (at least not the first three or four) but TOL's PrepWash is pretty effective.

Yeah, I'm never surprised when the M205/finishing pad follow up isn't aggressive enough.

In some cases I've found I need a lot more cut from the M205 than I woulda expected. I've even had to resort to an orange pad for the first passes! Maybe not really *necessary* but it *is* efficient in that it moves things along. But having to get that aggressive oughta be unusual and IMO usually means you did something wrong with the M105.

I'm *really* happy with the Griot's orange pad (different from other orange pads) and the new LC tangerine pad oughta be similar. These pads put a lot of product (i.e., M205) against the surface while still being mild enough to finish out great.

You can always do some final burnishing/etc. after you get any issues resolved, but FWIW I'm still not convinced that M205 is the very best product for those final passes.

ill have to see a little more on priming the pad properly then the right application of applying 105, because it would flash really fast..... so you never spread 105 out before working it?

and no, the hazing and marring wasnt bad, it didnt look like anything was there until the sun was on it, and it only showed up after the 105 step after an ipa wipe to check for swirls and such.

i guess ill just go and work on doing it right for a bit with just the 105 to get a very holo free surface before moving on to the 205. hopefully i can do a better check with the proper lights now

SuperBee364 · 10-25-09, 01:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by cjbigcog

I just took a look at TOL's website and didn't see PrepWash. Perhaps I missed it.
I'll be using 205 for the first time soon, so I want to be prepared for removing the oils. Any other products that I should take a look at? Would a warm water wash with Dawn work, or is this considered a no-no?

Silicone Remover

red4.8 · 10-25-09, 02:10

I had the same problem. It was a pain in the butt. I used #105 with a 7" LC pad. I had better luck with a 4" pad.

Scottwax · 10-25-09, 03:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbocress

to remove 105 hazing/holos, does a gray pad or a white pad typically work better for an average clear coat (not corvette hard, and not honda soft)

Whatever color the polishing pad is. There is no industry standard so leave out what color the pad is and focus on the cut.

bert31 · 10-25-09, 05:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Accumulator

IPA wipes don't always do it (at least not the first three or four) but TOL's PrepWash is pretty effective.

TOL sells PrepWash but isn't it a product of HiTemp?

zaidgreat · 10-25-09, 06:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Superior__Shine

Your not doing something right if your getting hazing. I can go straight to wax after #105 most of the time.

I havn't a clue about your orange pad. Give a firm pad like Meguiars maroon pad a try with 105.

Yes it is dusty!

Is your paint LSP ready after m105 with megs maroon pad?

cjbigcog · 10-25-09, 07:16

Thanks SuperBee! When I went to their site I looked at car care by brand >TOL Products. Didn't see it there. Wonder what catagory it is in?

Matt_H · 10-25-09, 08:56

Do you guys do a IPA wipedown after m105 and then again after m205, and is it really that necessary?

bert31 · 10-25-09, 10:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt_H

Do you guys do a IPA wipedown after m105 and then again after m205, and is it really that necessary?

The IPA wipedowns help clean up any of the oils and carrying agents which can fill any left over swirls or holograms making it look like the paint has been correct when really it has not and you need to keep working on it.

MR Detail Shop · 10-26-09, 04:47

What mix ratio do you use for teh IPA wipe down? I am assuming its not 100% IPA. Also one you have it dilluted a bit you still spray it on the MF towel first correct?

Thanks