Used Search & read endless threads.....

[Kevin Brown]

Originally Posted by SCoach

The rub to this is that the newbie won't KNOW that he only needs to work the M105 for 10 seconds. So he sees the videos on Youtube that show how to work polish, and does it for 2 minutes like he sees, and oops!

Yes, agreed. He needs to make sure that he walks before he runs.

Originally Posted by SCoach

The new stuff out there is amazing... But I'd be hesitant to hand M105 to a newbie without some good advice and maybe some hand-holding...

A GOOD option would be to try these products out on panels that don't matter if they are damaged- such as those that can be had for a few bucks through the local salvage yard.

His BEST option would be to find a local autopian to help guide him through the process... that would be neat. Good points.

[the other pc]

Originally Posted by Setec Astronomy

... almost all of us have too many products.

You can have too many products? Man, I thought I just didn’t have enough cars or time!

Welcome to the party, djs134!


pc.

[djs134]

Having been a nOOb in a few endeavors has taught me a few things about myself, advice and forums...

1. I tend to dive in DEEP (Take this from a guy who went from 1 Mr. Coffee to 13 various coffee makers, a pro-sumer expresso machine, home made coffee roaster and 100# of green coffee beans within 4 months.)
2. The is an almost infinite amount of information/advice out there and most is valid for those who offer it.
3. Forums are excellent places to follow and participate in disucssions. The trick is to pick the info/advice that is "level appropriate"

I have to be careful (due to my "Hobby OCD" ) that I don't bite off more than I can chew too early.

From the discussions I've read prior to this (and it seems to be supported here), that M105/205 is a excellent combo that produces outstanding results and saves time in the hands of an experienced user, it makes me just a bit nervous to use it right out of the gate. Assuming that there is a learning curve, no matter how shallow, my own inclination is to make 2 or 3 passes with a more "forgiving" product . Once I get a feel for how much cutting it would take to get a smooth finish using the less aggressive product, I can then add the time variable to the mix.

Again, this all stems from a couple of assumptions; a) start with the least aggressive measure and work back and b) a diminishing polish breaks down to cause less abrasion thereby "timing itself out", and therefore is more forgiving.

And again, I'm enjoying this discussion. Keep throwing info and I'll catch what I can and pocket what I can't. And I'll keep reading the forums and work my way into this. I'm just hoping my next post isn't titled "OMG!! *** did I do wrong here...."

[SCoach]

Looks like you are on the right path!

I had some issues when I started doing this work for more than just myself. I am in Florida, and I needed something that had a long "work time" and wouldn't dry out quickly in the sun. And it needed to be "newbie proof". After piddling around with a few things, and doing a lot of research, I settled on the PoorBoy's World products. There are products that give faster results. There are products that give better results in some cases. But I would (and have) turned complete newbies loose with a Porter Cable and their products and they've produced fabulous results.

I also recommend and use the Megs Ultimate Compound. It's a fairly "light" compound, and breaks down nicely so it's really hard to overwork it.

I did a 1973 Porsche 911 for a client this past weekend. He bought it after it had been sitting outside, uncovered for several years. In fact, the last registration on the vehicle was 1996. The new owner watched 95% of my work, shot video while I worked, and was able to see how the single stage Guards Red paint came back with each step. These were the products I used:

1. Poorboys SSR3 - A VERY heavy compound. Nearly akin to sanding. I applied with a 4" heavy cutting pad. At the end of this step the oxidation was gone.

2. Megs Ultimate Compund - Applied this with a 6" Green Edge pad (similar to an Orange Lake Country pad). When I finished this step, the owner's jaw dropped. He thought it was ready for waxing.

3. Optimum Poli-Seal - A fine polish + Sealant. This really brought things up nicely. The goal wasn't perfection on this car, but he wanted it to look good.

All of these products are VERY forgiving for a new user. SSR3 is very aggressive but it has a long work time. Megs UC works down into something nearly transparent when it's done. And Poli-Seal disappears into the paint. It just goes away, and you wipe off the car. There was zero dusting to clean up, and all these products are very economical. For $35 you could buy enough of each to last a couple years on two cars.

There are fine products out there by Megs, Menzerna, 1z, etc. Try a little and see what you like. I gravitate back to Poorboys World because I simply can't find anything better for the price. Same with the Megs Ultimate Compound. The results rival a pro product and it's $10 a bottle. Surf City's liquid carnauba is $20 a bottle, and I can wax a car with it in 20 minutes. And it looks amazing for the price. Doing your own cars, this won't be a concern.

Reading all these comments almost has me interested in going out and cleaning up my car this weekend.... almost.

[sontakke]

Take it from a total newbie, try M105 *by hand* first. Once you get the hang of it, you will then know when to stop when using it by machine. This approach works great on cars which are old enough.

- Vikas

[djs134]

Originally Posted by sontakke

Take it from a total newbie, try M105 *by hand* first. Once you get the hang of it, you will then know when to stop when using it by machine. This approach works great on cars which are old enough.

- Vikas

Not a bad idea. I'm getting ready to sell my 02 4Runner and I'm sure that it wouldn't be a bad candidate if I can get to it soon enough. 'Course, I'll have to also build in time to correct what I damage...then I'll have a nice spot and have to do the whole thing....and it's kind of large to do by hand.....gonna have to get a DA....wonder which to get? Griot's or PC....OMG! I'm back to the beginnin g again!!!!!....

j/k. Really a good idea. I spent the evening reading about the HD UNO and POXY, but thought I might need to get a feel for the products they're trying to replace as well. That goes for Machine vs hand as well. I"ve tried to use products by hand before, but without any kind of guidance or information to work from it was rather futile.....hmmmm.

.....there is certainly a lot of area on the old Toyota!!!!

[sontakke]

M105 is not lot of work to do it by hand when you are doing a single panel. The visual feedback that you get while working this product is great. With every swipe you see the finish getting better and better. That makes it very rewarding to use. I have no personal experience with the black bottle of Ultimate Compound but from what I have read, it is somewhat similar to M105. It is under ten dollars at most discount places such as Target, Walmart and Advanced Auto. All these places will even take it back if you do not like it.

Over last twenty five odd years, I must have spent thousands of dollars on detailing products and let me tell you M105 is among the best if not the best.

If you feel really adventurous, print 20% off coupon for Harbor Freight and pick up $26-after-coupon rotary. There are bunch of messages on it in this and other forums.

- Vikas

[djs134]

Ok, so I've been lookin' & readin' & thinkin' & ponderin' and feel I'm a bit closer to picking my starting point.

It seems like the PC is the most popular DA around here, and seems like the new XP is getting raves because its an improvement on an old favorite whereas the Griot's Garage 6" hasn't quite gained the acceptance yet because it is fighting the legacy of the older model. Being new enough to this to not have any preconceptions I think I'll go with the Griot's because:

1. More power - may not need it now, but have no doubt it will be welcome in the future
2. More speed - again, may not need it now, but will always grow into
3. Lifetime Warranty - a pretty biggy
4. Longer cord hardwired into buffer available

Unfortunately, the packages that the Griot's is bundled with don't seem to be quite as extensive as those with the PC. But then, I can always buy the exact pad I want (i.e. flat in stead of CCS).

Thanks for the suggestion to get samplers. I'm going to get samples of the M205 and pick up some UC. Looking at the Abrasives Chart, I think M105 might be a bit aggressive for the surfaces I'm going to work on. I think I'll also get some samples of the M83 and M80. They seem pretty close on the chart, but they also seem to be a popular combo.

I'm very intrigued with the HD line as well. I might get set up with a little of that as well. But I think I'd like to try my hand at the more tested and established products before I try the HD line if only so I can learn to use the "older technology" and can appreciate the benefit....

[bufferbarry]

Daniel,
Welcome to Autopia. I am in Lancaster Area. If you can make it down here some day, I would be more then willing to show you some machines, and basic techniques to help you out. I have tons of products, machines, We can work on your car together and you can learn first hand. I enjoy meeting car crazy guys and would love to help ya anyway I can. No charge either. I really enjoy giving back when I can. Call me if your interested. You can get my number if my website. Anyway good luck on your adventure!
Barry

[Kevin Brown]

Originally Posted by Kevin Brown

...His BEST option would be to find a local autopian to help guide him through the process... that would be neat...

Originally Posted by bufferbarry

Daniel,
Welcome to Autopia. I am in Lancaster Area. If you can make it down here some day, I would be more then willing to show you some machines, and basic techniques to help you out. I have tons of products, machines, We can work on your car together and you can learn first hand. I enjoy meeting car crazy guys and would love to help ya anyway I can. No charge either. I really enjoy giving back when I can. Call me if your interested. You can get my number if my website. Anyway good luck on your adventure!
Barry

ONE CLASS ACT. Thanks for the offer, Barry.

[djs134]

Thanks Barry! My official work address is in Harrisburg, but strangely enough, I'm hardly ever down that way... lol...

But I think I can work my way down your way, especially if i can get some pointers.... I'll work on my schedule and take this to PM. Thanks for the offer. Look forward to meeting.

[djs134]

Sent my order in; got the Griot's 6", some extra pads and a couple of Grit Guards. I'm going to check a couple of places around here for product (M205).

I've searched the threads and even searched Autopia via Google, and can't seem to find anything on suggested lighting for doing this kind of work in my garage. I gather that incandescent lighting is better than florescent, but what about suggested wattage for work lights?

Any problem with 1300-Watt Tripod or 1000-Watt Tripod?