Rotary Usage - Page 9

Bill D · 06-27-04, 08:56

I'm using 6.5" Lake country pads for now and have a rotary backing plate for them. I'm going to try to order a backing plate that can accomodate my PC 6" pads from LC directly, they appear to be the only manufactuer that makes a plate for a rotary for these size pads. I'd really like to be able to use my other exisiting pads with both machines

Demon Detailer · 09-03-04, 03:16

On the horizontal surfaces, it makes it easier to switch hands. If you normally have your right hand on the trigger, left on the handle, then switch.

This will give you more control over the buffer when you buff on vertical surfaces. Also, keep the

Also, if you are getting alot of caking, i.e. after half a hood, something is wrong. Either use more product, a different product or a different pad. The pad should stay clean and shouldn't cake up.

Also, when you buff, think of it as mowing a golfing green. Do a 2 foot by 2 foot section at a time. Keep the buffer moving at a constant speed and use over lapping lanes. Let the buffer do the work, don't press on the buffer until you have had several hours of practice.

At first, you don't have to buff the section clean, you can stop when there is a haze and then wipe it off with a micro-fiber towel. Then move onto the next section. After you get more experience, you can buff the sections clean.

PrinzII · 09-25-04, 12:37

Last weekend, I used a rotary buffer on a 4th Generation ('95 - '99) Maxima and wanted to share some things when using a rotary on a 4th Gen or 5th/5.5 Gen Maxima.

4th Gen

a) Tape off the trim above the doors and the weatherstripping
b) Tape off the "Maxima" and the GLE/SE Tags on the trunk
c) Tape off the edge of the headlights, cornering lamps and grille
d) Tape off the weatherstripping around the sunroof (if equipped), windshield, and the rear window.
e) Tape off the edges around the taillights.

This Generation of the Maxima has flat surfaces which means running a rotary will be pretty easy. However, you don't need to run it fast since Nissan's paint is somewhat fragile.

5th/5.5 Gen

This version has the same taping points as the 4th Gen but it has more curves and tighter spaces that you will have to do by hand. If you are going to use a rotary on the 5th Gen, you just run the rotary on the flat surfaces (hood, top, doors, trunk, bumper, spoiler) but the lower valence and underneath the spoiler can be done by hand because that's a very tight space.

Accumulator · 09-25-04, 02:31

PrinzII- Did you have much trouble getting the by-hand areas to match the by-rotary ones?

theveed · 09-27-04, 08:38

Amazing how fast 2 years fly by... hehe

NavindraLR · 09-27-04, 09:42

yup this post has come along way
glad it did tho.. cause it helped out quite a bit with my rotary (makita 9227)

PrinzII · 10-02-04, 12:44

During yesterday's detailing meet, one of the Max owners picked up a Makita 9227c and 2 3M Pads (Compounding and finishing) and the Meguiar's Polishing Pad.

I assembled the buffer for him and advised him that he needs to practice on a beater car before taking the buffer to his Max.

However, I showed him what can be done with it on a supercharged Maxima. I took some Menzerna Intensive Polish and applied iit using the 9227c and the 3M compounding pad.
I did the right front corner and the front bumper (I used PI III Light Cut Rubbing Compound on the bumper). I set the Makita on the second notch after 2 (roughly 1200 RPM) and gave it to the owner for him to use on his car (Owner is experienced in using a rotary).

The results had the owner

because he was actually able to see the pearlescent effect in the paint.

However, I'd like to know how to apply product to the pad properly on a rotary. I put dots around the pad (four on the outside, one center) and spread it around before hitting the switch. I also worked the product until it dried/disappeared.

cheapshot · 10-03-04, 06:20

i though i'd add to this post, a few months ago i when to a detail shop for advice on products, i saw the guy using a dewalt rotary, as he ran off the the panel with the machine, i said, wow! that must be really easy to do damage with, he said he uses special wool pads, and backup pads, to reduce the risks. anyone? anyone?

NavindraLR · 10-03-04, 06:59

Quote:

Originally posted by PrinzII
During yesterday's detailing meet, one of the Max owners picked up a Makita 9227c and 2 3M Pads (Compounding and finishing) and the Meguiar's Polishing Pad.

I assembled the buffer for him and advised him that he needs to practice on a beater car before taking the buffer to his Max.

However, I showed him what can be done with it on a supercharged Maxima. I took some Menzerna Intensive Polish and applied iit using the 9227c and the 3M compounding pad.
I did the right front corner and the front bumper (I used PI III Light Cut Rubbing Compound on the bumper). I set the Makita on the second notch after 2 (roughly 1200 RPM) and gave it to the owner for him to use on his car (Owner is experienced in using a rotary).

The results had the owner because he was actually able to see the pearlescent effect in the paint.

However, I'd like to know how to apply product to the pad properly on a rotary. I put dots around the pad (four on the outside, one center) and spread it around before hitting the switch. I also worked the product until it dried/disappeared.

did u notice any slingage of product using your method of applying the product on the pad? slingage and dusting seem to be 2 huge problems i have with the rotary right now.. still tryin to figure it out tho...

PrinzII · 10-09-04, 04:39

Yes, I did notice slinging and dusting.

I also need to find out how to work with this more effectively because I am getting some hologramming.

Airborne Ranger · 01-15-05, 12:40

From my understanding, there's a fine balance between too much speed too produce hologramming and too slow to obtain maximum shine and full effectiveness of the product. I gotta get me a Makita soon!!! AR

Anthony Orosco · 01-15-05, 04:16

Wool pads naturally run cooler than foam. So there is nothing special about wool pads, other than the blend type.

I run wool pads at about 1800 rpm's and even moving at a slow rate there is very little panel heat up. There is very little need for wool on modern paints, at least as far as in non-correction matters. Most of the time a finishing pad and something like IP, FP is all you need.

Dusting can be a problem and if this is the case for your expereince then try not to buff until dry but rather "wet buff". In other words buff the product just until it begins to dry out. This requires you to use less product and buff smaller sections.

It seems that winters drier weather can also aide in more dusting. In the high humidity of South Texas I don't seem to get as much dusting as in winter but then again it could just be me

Swirls are mainly caused, not so much with speed, but with not working down to a fine enough polish/pad combo. In certain lighting a paint may look really nice after one pass with a polishing pad and say DACP. Then you take it out in the sun and WOW

.....where did all those swirls come from?! Take the extra time to go to a finer polish and pad and then buff again. If needed finish off with the PC or Cyclo and/or use a glaze to hide any remaining marks.

If slinging is a probelm then instead of laying down a bead of product try placing a nickel size amount of product then place the buffer on top of it and begin buffing.

There is a great deal of finese to buffing and not all areas can be expressed or dealt with as it would take lots of typing and then reading.

Hope that helps some,
Anthony