Considering your main issues as you stated are with Buffer marks, swirls, and scratch problems. In order to eliminate (not fill-in) paint defects and/or surface imperfections you need good lighting, clean toweling, clean pads, evaluate the surface, right products for the job, and plenty of patience. If you think in terms of one section or panel at a time, you will be less likely to be in a hurry to go on to the next section. You will actually be going faster taking your time and doing a nice job and solving the problems, instead of going fast and leaving scratches, swirls, undealt with for some later time.
I do a walk around to check for loose trim, emblems, and other items. Taping off lenses, body side moldings, antenna mounts, etc., depending on vehicle.
You can solve a lot of the issues people have with rotary's ahead of time before you even pick-up the buffer.
When it comes to your pads make sure they are balanced on the backing plate properly. Unwanted vibration can create more problems.
I have found that most surface correction can be done between 1000 to 1500 RPM's. I got most of my wet-sanding, compounding, polishing, blends, and scratch and run repair experience by working in the body shop environment. Great classroom for detailers. Some of your products may have speed recommendations on the labeling. If they do not you will be within a safe range as mentioned above. Some of your products are heat activated this is one reason for the recommended speeds; compounds, swirl mark removers, etc. It's nice to hear how it's working for others, but most if not all of your professional detailing chemical company's have thoroughly tested these products, that's how they come up with the recommendations for their use, features, and what pads to use.
Ever since I started detailing, the old standard of the least aggresive pads and products first, applies here too. Man!, If I can get it done with the light stuff first, the less surface has to be leveled, and more time for other things like coffee and pastries.
When applying product I will either put it directly on the pad or lay about an 8" line of product on the surface. Starting from the right side of the line I will draw the product up into the pad, and using front to back motions (natural motion of vehicles) I overlap each pass (which is about two feet) by about 50% evenly and smoothly buffing, keeping the pad as flat to the surface as possible applying the wet product before it starts to dry (I am comfortable with light to medium pressure at first and then I'll ease up at the end of the passes). I've noticed with some products once the product dries it will cause the pad to grab and pull away. Wet buffing by misting and/or product usually solves this problem. On vertical fields smaller pads at lower speeds are easy to manipulate and are effective. As was already mentioned, keep the rotary moving. If it starts to drag mist the pad and/or lay down some more product. Buff wet! a rotary out of control can cause injury to you and the car.
If you want to learn how to use the rotary safely and efficiently learn the products and chemicals you are using and your future applications will be based on experience instead of guess work.
About deeper scratches, if your fingernail will catch in the groove, it will probably need to be repaired. Your better off telling your customer or admitting to yourself whatever the situation, that this needs to be repaired, rather than trying to fix it and penetrating the surface coat exposing the underlying coats.
There are many situations that will arise, some new some old. Paying close attention with your own eyes to what's really on that surface will tell you what the solution is and the actions to take.
Hope this helps you! . . . .
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